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Advice for reviving a '87 SN 2001 after 10yrs

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 9:03am
If there is no water gushing out somewhere, then that is must be a spare plug. Looks new too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 9:48am
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

Right on with the oil drain hose, I remember going through my engine on the 98 sport for the first time and finding the same hose. Had no idea what it was, the Ford Interceptor 312 on my Dad's Ski Nautique had no such convenience item.

As for that plug, it sure looks like a manifold plug (to drain manifolds - winterization - at the aft end of each manifold), of course it depends on what size it is. If it is small it could also be the plug that goes in the bottom of the J-pipe below the water pump, but those are typically brass and a hex head.


Ahh, that's right!        You stick the hose through the bilge drain so you can empty the oil without fear of contaminating the bilge with spilled waste oil. Now that I think about it, I guess I probably looked a little silly yesterday siphoning the oil through the dipstick...   


The plug's about the size of the two water plugs that insert into the back of the exhaust risers. Maybe just a tad bigger. I'm thinking it may be a spare bilge drain plug, the one thing that's throwing me off is that one end looks keyed for a 1/2" drive ratchet. That's not something you'd typically see in a bilge drain plug as the one I have in now is brass and has the typical "T" handle so you can install\uninstall by hand.

Well, there's no gushing water when running or weird temp fluctuations so I'll take that as a positive sign. .   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 10:44am
Originally posted by xarmypilot xarmypilot wrote:

    You stick the hose through the bilge drain so you can empty the oil without fear of contaminating the bilge with spilled waste oil. Now that I think about it, I guess I probably looked a little silly yesterday siphoning the oil through the dipstick...    

The sucking the oil out of the dip stick tube is a good way especially if the boat is in the water! I use the method since it's harder to get a drain pan under the boat if their'r hanging in the boathouse or on the lift.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 11:05am
No reason to ever pull oil out of the dipstick tube when you have a drain hose Pete,hook the pump to the hose. Go back and edit your post,you made it real easy for Quinner,HW and me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 12:07pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

No reason to ever pull oil out of the dipstick tube when you have a drain hose Pete,hook the pump to the hose. Go back and edit your post,you made it real easy for Quinner,HW and me

Gary,
I took your advice. The thought did cross my mind but I had to run for an errand. Yup, CQ and HW would have had a field day with the statement!

Interesting concept with the drain hose. I had never thought of it. I'll have to do some thinking about the needed parts to adapt the super sucker to the drain hose. and then at least I can use the method on one of my boats. The Tique I'd have to add the drain hose to the pan drain which isn't a problem but with the Atom, I can't With old engines that shared engine oil with the trans, the oil does need to be sucked out of the trans since it's the lowest point.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 3:22pm
Pete I just used some things in the junk drawer,a piece of vacuum hose and a 1/4" barbed hose connector. All 3 boats use the same size drain hose so that makes it easy too.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-25-2015 at 5:00pm
Gary,
One year on my 312, I did play around attaching the supper sucker directly to the dip stick tube. I didn't have the proper size rubber hose so it kept sucking air at that connection. I'm going to give it another try.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 12:21pm
Got back from church this morning and thought I'd dedicate most of the day to getting to the non-engine items on my checklist. At the top of my list is getting the steering back into order. Right now, the steering is absolutely "stuck" in position - zero movement at the rudder.

While I'm not sure if it's a problem with the steering cable or ruder packing, my thought is that since the boat's been sitting for 19 years, I think that steering would be benefited if the rudder was lubed and the box re-packed anyway, if only as a preventative measure.

My question is, since I've removed the safety wire, the clamp bolt and the bolt at the top of the shaft, shouldn't the rudder just drop out?

It doesn't, but given that the shaft is probably bone-dry, that doesn't surprise me much.

What's the best way to free it up? I don't want to just get crazy with a rubber mallet on the rudder to loosen it and take a chance of making the job any harder by warping the shaft or invite any potential leaking. Should I try to pry the control arm (?) off of the shaft first?

I've been following this helpful DIY


Pic of rudder box bolts removed




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'72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 12:34pm
I'd pull the arm off,loosen the gland nut and get underneath the boat and turn and pull the rudder until it comes out. Should not have to pound and most of the time they want to fall out when everything is loose. Yours might be stuck in the packing though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I'd pull the arm off,loosen the gland nut and get underneath the boat and turn and pull the rudder until it comes out. Should not have to pound and most of the time they want to fall out when everything is loose. Yours might be stuck in the packing though.



Thanks Gary, that worked quite nicely. The helm is still locked into position and won't budge. I'm going to search to see if there are any threads (with pix ) that cover the steering cable and components to attempt some additional troubleshooting.

If anyone has some tips or links to share, it'd be appreciated.      
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 2:09pm
I just so happen to have a thread like that with pics, you may have a rotary and mine is a rack and pinion style, but some similarities exist.

I'd unbolt/disconnect the steering cable from the helm and then see if the wheel turns. If the wheel then turns easily, it's likely your steering cable is frozen.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=31166&title=steering-cable-replacement-with-pictures
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 2:16pm
Thanks, Brian - very good advice. Believe it or not, I was actually reading your post before I saw your reply    

I wonder, if the cable happens to be frozen, is that a "must replace" task or is there some method I can try to attempt to free it up?     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 2:23pm
To my knowledge it's a must replace. Mine wasn't even fully seized but they can start to drag after a while. It would probably be more work trying to free it up than to replace it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 2:24pm
Yes you have to replace. Not too big a job on that boat, you tie a rope on the old one and pull it out from the back. Use the rope to pull in the new. Did my Mustang by myself in no time at all. V drive took quite awhile, the whole floor had to come out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 4:56pm
Thanks to all for the recommendations. Nautiqueparts.com has the cable listed at $309 and N3 is closed today - any better recommendations where I can find a decent one (the right one) on a budget? Part #'s would be very helpful as well.

I've got wiry arms so I'm going to try removing\replacing the cable without pulling the fuel cell - but something tells me that is going to make getting the cable disconnected from the tiller a real PITA...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:00pm
There are certain years that the cable was a special length only available thru a dealer,someone will know if yours is in that range. Zach, phatsat67 on here, is N3's part manager and since they are a site sponcer does provide us with a discount
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

There are certain years that the cable was a special length only available thru a dealer,someone will know if yours is in that range. Zach, phatsat67 on here, is N3's part manager and since they are a site sponcer does provide us with a discount


Thanks Gary, +1 to you for reminding me about the sponsors      Yeah, N3's always been good to me and quite frankly, you won't have much of a community unless you support one another.

I think I remember reading that the steering cable on 82-90 boats are 17.5 ft, a size that's specific to CC only.

The old cable is out now...



...and ready for the new one.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 7:18pm
Wow, you got right after it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 7:55pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Wow, you got right after it!



Yes sir, your thread helped a lot <thanks again> and no since waiting around for a part when I can be quasi-productive today. Frankly it wasn't all that difficult to remove once I got past all the zip ties. Now getting the new one installed and adjusted so the steering is "right" may be a whole different story...guess we'll see soon enough!   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 9:22pm
I know you are going in the direction of replacing it and that is GREAT. So my comment is for someone in the future reading this. There are lots of places you can cut corners on boats, patching them for one more year, etc. Steering should NEVER be one of those places. Way to much can happen when a steering cable goes, I have seen way to many people get thrown across the boat resulting in busted ribs or worse, get completely ejected.

Ok, getting off the soap box, sorry for the preaching.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-26-2015 at 10:21pm
Originally posted by skutsch skutsch wrote:

I know you are going in the direction of replacing it and that is GREAT. So my comment is for someone in the future reading this. There are lots of places you can cut corners on boats, patching them for one more year, etc. Steering should NEVER be one of those places. Way to much can happen when a steering cable goes, I have seen way to many people get thrown across the boat resulting in busted ribs or worse, get completely ejected.

Ok, getting off the soap box, sorry for the preaching.



Amen! It's that time of year to begin getting your head right. It's not just the owner's safety that's at stake, but everyone who shares the water with you could be at risk. I watched a runaway cruiser almost t-bone a Sunfish full of kids once, all because the owner failed to replace a required safety stop. Imagine having to explain that one to a parent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 12:21am
I'll be picking up a new "correct spec" steering cable and packing material from Zach at N3 tomorrow and installing in the afternoon.

This got me to thinking - how would you install the cable then when finished, ensure that the wheel is in the "straight position" when the rudder is true?

I've poured through the FAQ's and had been using Bret's DIY as a guide, but don't see any adjustment recommendations after install to ensure the wheel reflects the rudder position.

The pic below illustrates the wheel position I want when the rudder is totally straight. I'm assuming it would it just be a "simple" tiller adjustment, but as with any safety related device, it's best to ask the experts who've been down this road a couple of times.

- Oh yeah, looks like I have to get to that inverted center cap too at some point. Guess too many years playing Army makes me want to set everything "dress right, dress".


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 7:43am
You center the helm wheel, center the rudder and any adjustment is done with the tube block clamp at the aft end of the cable.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 9:44am
Pete is half right. The clamp block and clamp tube placement determines whether or not you have equal rudder travel in both directions. Whether or not the wheel is straight when the rudder is pointing straight (or boat is moving straight) is not related. That is a function of the wheel angle when you start feeding the cable into the helm. It may take a few tries and a water test to be sure you've got it nailed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 9:51am
To get the steering wheel 'level' you have to engage the cable going into the helm at a given spot in its rotation.. This takes trial & error - best to have a helper look for level as you will be laying on your back spouting 4 letter words about the 4th iteration.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-01-2015 at 11:34am
Thanks to everyone for the tips    We'll see how it goes this afternoon.




Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

...best to have a helper look for level as you will be laying on your back spouting 4 letter words about the 4th iteration.



Chris, sounds like at some point you must've heard me when I'm working...
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'72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xarmypilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2015 at 12:11am
What a great day it was on the lake today! After all the preparation, steering cable stress and trailer madness, everything finally came together and I was able to get out and have a relatively flawless 1st run. First impression is that this is a fairly quick "bone stock" boat. It's no BareFooter, but I was constantly able to pull down 47-48 (gps measured) mph and hold it there. Maybe after a good buffing and waxing, I might be able to squeeze 2-3 more mph outta her.

One thing I noticed was that, after a 20 minute warm up on the water, she still acted like she wanted to stall out of the hole. So I drove it like I stole it for a good 15-20 minutes then tried again - success! My best guess is that there was probably some crud left in the fuel system or in the carb that was blown out on my romp. Thankfully, I didn't have any such problem the rest of the day...

In my eyes, that's not too shabby considering the boat's been stored for 19 years and there was no "real" engine or carb work was done beyond fluids and cleaning. I owe Zach (phatsat67) from N3 a big thanks for saving the weekend and helping me "procure" then correct steering cable. It was good to catch him launching at the boat ramp so he could see the big smile on my face...

So as she sits, the only mechanical chits I have are
1) Right speedo doesn't function
2) Stuffing box needs re-done and adjusted (already picked up materials Sat.)
3) Need to determine why the alarm is occasionally sounding very faintly. It stops when the horn is blown so I think that it's most likely this is due to something disconnected or dislodged when I pulled the new steering cable through to the helm.
4) No sound through the speakers. Stereo works and has a signal, just no sound to the speakers. Probably another casualty of the steering cable replacement.   

So a big thanks to all who who've helped me get my mechanical bearings on this boat. Hopefully sometime our paths will cross season and we can shred some water together.     

In any event, here's proof that she floats -   .   



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'72 Checkmate Mx16 (Past family boat)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2015 at 11:14am
Grats on the first run!!! She looks fantastic.

I hope you work out your other issues. Here is a thread I started on the alarm

Limits that trigger the alarm

For the stereo, make sure all connections are landed/made, then you can use a Volt-Ohm Meter to see if the stereo is actually supplying power and you can check continuity of the speaker.

-spiral
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2015 at 11:48am
Project looks great. Some minor punch list issues, and then time to Enjoy, Enjoy, Enjoy!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2015 at 12:05pm
Looks great,hope your cousin doesn't see all this or the price just might have gone up! Have a great summer!
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