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Ski NAUTIQUE 2001 overheat? Or??

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phatsat67 View Drop Down
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    Posted: April-04-2016 at 10:20am
Pete,

I was moving quickly so I didn't get and detailed pics of the wiring up close. Just w general shot not completely finished and a few of the new panel installed. Still have one air guide out messing with it so it's technically all the way finished.

Ran it on Saturday. Shows 13.8 running without anything on and about 12.5 with all accessories on. Mission accomplished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 9:36pm
Both anti siphon and gas vent hoses are clear and clean. Good shape and free flowing. I'm really thinking the issue lies withen the electrical issues and if not rebuilding the carb will likely be my last hope. I plan on taking this week to rewire the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 7:52pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

I just completely re wired/re structured my 85 dash. Got rid of all the daisy chains in favor of some different style connections.

Zach,
Where are the pictures???


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by lakedog55 lakedog55 wrote:

Fixing all the wiring problems should help it. If it doesn't check to see if the , but there is a over-flow or siphon on fuel tank. I have heard of them getting plugged and vapor locking Gas. Back of hull on either left or right. Silver looking thing.

Mike,
To clarify, there are two items that can get plugged back at the tank.

The first is the anti siphon. It looks like a fuel line fitting where the fuel line is connected to the top of the tank.

The second is the tank vent. It's a hose typically about an 1" that goes from the top of the tank to a thru hull fitting in the boat hull.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lakedog55 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 6:54pm
Fixing all the wiring problems should help it. If it doesn't check to see if the , but there is a over-flow or siphon on fuel tank. I have heard of them getting plugged and vapor locking Gas. Back of hull on either left or right. Silver looking thing.
Lakedog55
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 6:27pm
Sounds like some good progress. Like we all said before, with a boat that old you'll find multiple problems. Get everything addressed and you'll have one extremely reliable unit. I didn't like the look of the DUI because it's bulky but it's an excellent addition if you really want to go the EI route.

Like Paul said, make sure to test the voltage to the coil running and that will tell the tale if that's the issue.

I just completely re wired/re structured my 85 dash. Got rid of all the daisy chains in favor of some different style connections. If everything is in nice shape and the gauge is correct you should see 13-13.5 volts on the gauge running (actual alternator output)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 2:38pm
My apologies, should be more specific!! By replace I mean cleaned and placed back on the Carb. It is a Holly Marine Flame Arrestor with the blue marine/boat logo on top. The previous owner definitely made some questionable decisions but the parts are all infact marine. I made sure to check and double check this before placing my friends/family in harms way. I will post some pictures shortly when I get it all buttoned up this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 1:30pm
Originally posted by Blake71121 Blake71121 wrote:

Replaced the intake filter   

Blake,
What intake filter? We have already mentioned questionable non marine parts the PO has installed. If you are talking about the thing that sits on top of the carb, it's not a filter nor is it replaced. The USCG flame arrestor is cleaned only. Please post some pictures before you drive a potential hazard.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 1:25pm
I agree, it is definitely a down the road purchase. My points will work just fine!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:52pm
A DUI is a big "chunk of jing" that you don't need to spend, you already have a brand new distributor!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:42pm
Thank you all for the help and replies! You've given me a lot of knowledge and I am very confident I have or will fix the issue. All the fuel lines looked great, the filters were clean and the carb was in great shape. Replaced the intake filter and started tracing wires, positive and ground. Thus far I have found three corroded connections and two ground wires that were completely unhooked. I have found a wiring diagram for everything and plan to rewire all the dash and controls. I have already figured out where the lose wires were from and am now showing 12 volts on the meter. Thanks again!! As for the EI looks like I may be adding the DUI and new plug wires in the near future to eliminate the coil and ballast resistor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2016 at 12:21pm
I'm going to bet your coil is getting to much voltage heating up then shutting down till it cools down.
Check these things and get back to us...
1) what is the OHM rating of the coil and is it a resisted coil or not.
2) Is the ballast resistor bypassed and/or what voltage do you have going from that to the coil.

My theory is the PO has bypassed the ballast resistor and has 12v going into a non-resisted coil causing the coil to overheat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2016 at 4:10pm
Remember to go through the whole thing.   Dont stop once you find a problem. Typically you will find several.   

I had a boat that use to do the same thing, turns out there was an in line fuel water separator that was very small.   had the metal element in it.   Didnt take more that a spoon full of water to stop gas flow. Thing was starving for gas. However while trouble shooting it for a year we found many issues that were mostly electrical.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lcgordon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2016 at 1:30am
My buddies malibu does this. His has electronic ignition. Im subscribed to get any tips to help him fix it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2016 at 12:55am
Typically it will not idle very long after shifting into gear but I have tried easing in slow in which it always cuts out. If I hit the throttle hard it cuts out even faster before the prop can even spin up. The last trip I was able to idle it back to the doc by starting it up multiple times and idling until it died out. I will trouble shoot the ignition, wiring, and fuel system this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmacbuck69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2016 at 12:44am
After it cuts out, you say you are able to turn it back on and rev it up correct? Have you tried to pop into gear and hit the gas hard (rather then putting it in gear and easing into the throttle) and if so will it the boat go?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 1:50pm
^^^^^^^

Our suggestion would be to fix the problem as is. I will wager money on that if you get your volt meter at 12 or above you'll see 145 degrees like you should on the gauge.

Like Joe said, electrical trouble shooting requires you to start with the basics. If the basics aren't working your other diagnostic efforts will be in vain.

Your dashboard has one ground wire and one positive wire in the main 8 pin harness. From there the positive distributes itself to the circuit breakers. You need a multi meter and you need to start at your main battery cable on the starter solenoid. From there power goes to the main 40a rear breaker. Follow that all the way up to the front testing voltage and cleaning connections. An electrical system is a road map you follow until you find the break point. It could also be an issue with the ground side. Start playing and see where the issue is. Likely you'll have more than one issue.

Note: when testing positive use a direct ground to the battery. Likewise when testing ground.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 1:47pm
The whole issue is quite possibly caused by bad wiring to/from the dash - if not the overall cause it is a confounding variable which will make other troubleshooting efforts unfruitful. Clean up your connections and check on the quality of all your wires and crimps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 12:54pm
I see the electronic ignition is a touchy subject. So I keep the points and we rule that out as an issue. So I need to check the screens and filters first for a fuel issue and if the problem persists rebuild the carb? To rule out the electrical issue I need to check the coil and ballast resistor? Anything else to suggest. I plan to troubleshoot this weekend.

As per your comment on the volt meter, mine does read low, suggests 10volts even though my battery is new and reads 12volts on my digital multimeter I assumed it was just an off volt gauge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:40am
Or the PO put in a car thermostat or just fitted the wrong one------
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:02am
There was something wrong with your 4 winns ignition system if you replaced points constantly. My points and condenser have somewhere north of 900 hours with no adjustments just lubrication.

Also, 160 is slightly warmer than you usually see a carb 351 run. I suspect your volt meter on the dash may be running slightly under 12v making the gauges read artificially high. If not, check the actual engine temp with your meter. If that looks good but the gauge is still high run a dedicated test ground to the sensor and dedicated grounds and positives to the gauge in question. Disconnect all wires from the gauge and sensor before you do this test. If the gauge is still high you have a gauge or sensor issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 11:00am
So it has points. I guarantee the only issue you may have with the points would be a condenser. You need to check the output of the ballast resistor as well. The older coils are of much higher quality than current production and seem to take a lot longer to show an over voltage situation than a current coil. I wouldn't put in electronic ignition if you don't have to. The dual point setup will support about twice as many engine Rpm than you'll ever turn that ford.

That dizzy is some sort of rare bird. If you really want electronic I would keep that cool dizzy and buy a DUI and call it a day. DUI eliminates the need for s coil killing two birds with one stone and getting rid of the ballast resistor. You'll need new plug wires too.

Points are literally one of the most reliable ignition systems available and with proper maintenance and operation basically last indefinitely.

Don't start just replacing parts (like the last guy). Listen to what all of these guys have to say (remmeber you're the new guy to cc) and you'll fix it soon enough.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:52am
I'm aware there is no gain simply a reliability and piece of mind. I had constantly replaced the points in my old fourwinns and have had a Pertronix system in it for 4 years now without an issue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:41am
Originally posted by Blake71121 Blake71121 wrote:

electronic ignition is what I wanted on this boat regardless if that was the issue.

Blake,
I have to ask why? Are you expecting some type of gain?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:32am
It is a Mallory marine distributor, and it does have dual points. The distributor is on the Mallory website listed for the Ford 351w marine applications. As for the Carb it is a Holly Marine Carb 4150 the # printed on the barrel is 8105B which is also for marine 351 applications. I did call and confirm both with the dealers before jumping to conclusions.
I do not plan on throwing parts at it but the coil is well overdue to be upgraded and electronic ignition is what I wanted on this boat regardless if that was the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 10:19am
Originally posted by Blake71121 Blake71121 wrote:

Well I was completely wrong to trust the seller. Turns out the coil is not new it is the original coil with the motor. As for the electronic ignition turns out it is actually a Mallory distributor with dual points. I have decided to go the electronic ignition route and have ordered the ignition conversion and 40,000 volt coil to go with it setup for the Mallory distributor. Along with checking the fuel filters and pickup in the gas tank anything else that may cause these symptoms? Plan to change the water separator filter and thinking about rebuilding the carb although the boat runs great for the first half of the day. It is a Holley 8105B four barrel

Does have the new OEM starter and Solenoid which was installed by a shop at the end of last season along with the Mallory Distributor $850 in receipts for all that.


I don't know of any Marine dizzy that has dual points and the carb number doesn't sound like a Marine unit either. Is the 8105B the list number on the carb?
I would verify those aspects and fix before going any further.

When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 8:56am
I'm going to go with Tom's idea on ignition issue. Also, HW's comment on a bunch of "new/random" ignition parts thrown at it doesn't sound good. The cause of the problem needs to be determined before just throwing parts at it.
Is the new Mallory distributor marine?
No on the vapor lock.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JPASS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 8:32am
I don't believe that 8105B is a marine carb.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blake71121 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2016 at 12:03am
Well I was completely wrong to trust the seller. Turns out the coil is not new it is the original coil with the motor. As for the electronic ignition turns out it is actually a Mallory distributor with dual points. I have decided to go the electronic ignition route and have ordered the ignition conversion and 40,000 volt coil to go with it setup for the Mallory distributor. Along with checking the fuel filters and pickup in the gas tank anything else that may cause these symptoms? Plan to change the water separator filter and thinking about rebuilding the carb although the boat runs great for the first half of the day. It is a Holley 8105B four barrel

Does have the new OEM starter and Solenoid which was installed by a shop at the end of last season along with the Mallory Distributor $850 in receipts for all that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2016 at 12:07pm
A whole bunch of new/random ignition parts sounds like a problem too. Please do post exactly what all is wired up and their part numbers.
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