Ski NAUTIQUE 2001 overheat? Or??

Okay so I am a new Correct Craft owner and I've got to say I absolutely love my new to me 1985 Ski NAUTIQUE 2001.
Here's the issue:
I have searched and seen countless numbers of threads on my same exact symptoms but no one has posted an answer to the problem. My Ski NAUTIQUE has the 351 ford and yes it does have a newer electronic ignition. The boat runs flawlessly for about an hour or so but then the engine begins to cutout and will eventually shut off. I have no issues restarting the motor after this and can even put the boat into neutral and rev it no problem. However as soon as I put the boat into gear it will shut off again. Is this an overheating issue? The boat does not seem to be overheating and if it was I would think it wouldn't start and rev. I have had many tell me this could be vapor lock or possibly a fuel issue but if it was fuel I shouldn't be able to rev the boat in neutral correct? Any help or suggestions would be great! I really haven't done much to the boat since I have gotten it but plan to replace the impeller soon and possibly the thermostat. If anyone has solved this problem in the past please chime in with how you resolved it!

A cheap Non Contact IR Temp Gun is an asset to anyone's tool box. Then you can verify what the temp really is.

The temp gauge is reading around 160 and I am not sure of its accuracy. I do have a temp gun but did not have it handy on this last outing to check.
It typically takes about thirty minutes to an hour to get back up and going. But the problem reoccurs much sooner say 10 minutes or so and it starts again whereas sitting overnight its fine the next day for a decent while.

I have not checked the vacuum at the intake manifold

I would say the previous owner had similar symptoms because it has a new distributor, new coil, new electronic ignition, new starter and new plugs. I have receipts for all the parts if you'd like the specific brands or part #'s. When I purchased the boat we test ran for two hours with no issues. The first couple days with it were great until I started having this issue on the last outing. I suspected the choke or maybe carb needs rebuilt but reading up on the issue has me second guessing myself.

A whole bunch of new/random ignition parts sounds like a problem too. Please do post exactly what all is wired up and their part numbers.

I don't believe that 8105B is a marine carb.

Blake71121 wrote: Well I was completely wrong to trust the seller. Turns out the coil is not new it is the original coil with the motor. As for the electronic ignition turns out it is actually a Mallory distributor with dual points. I have decided to go the electronic ignition route and have ordered the ignition conversion and 40,000 volt coil to go with it setup for the Mallory distributor. Along with checking the fuel filters and pickup in the gas tank anything else that may cause these symptoms? Plan to change the water separator filter and thinking about rebuilding the carb although the boat runs great for the first half of the day. It is a Holley 8105B four barrel Does have the new OEM starter and Solenoid which was installed by a shop at the end of last season along with the Mallory Distributor $850 in receipts for all that.

I don't know of any Marine dizzy that has dual points and the carb number doesn't sound like a Marine unit either. Is the 8105B the list number on the carb?
I would verify those aspects and fix before going any further.

Blake71121 wrote: electronic ignition is what I wanted on this boat regardless if that was the issue.

Blake,
I have to ask why? Are you expecting some type of gain?

So it has points. I guarantee the only issue you may have with the points would be a condenser. You need to check the output of the ballast resistor as well. The older coils are of much higher quality than current production and seem to take a lot longer to show an over voltage situation than a current coil. I wouldn't put in electronic ignition if you don't have to. The dual point setup will support about twice as many engine Rpm than you'll ever turn that ford.

That dizzy is some sort of rare bird. If you really want electronic I would keep that cool dizzy and buy a DUI and call it a day. DUI eliminates the need for s coil killing two birds with one stone and getting rid of the ballast resistor. You'll need new plug wires too.

Points are literally one of the most reliable ignition systems available and with proper maintenance and operation basically last indefinitely.

Don't start just replacing parts (like the last guy). Listen to what all of these guys have to say (remmeber you're the new guy to cc) and you'll fix it soon enough.

Or the PO put in a car thermostat or just fitted the wrong one------

The whole issue is quite possibly caused by bad wiring to/from the dash - if not the overall cause it is a confounding variable which will make other troubleshooting efforts unfruitful. Clean up your connections and check on the quality of all your wires and crimps.

After it cuts out, you say you are able to turn it back on and rev it up correct? Have you tried to pop into gear and hit the gas hard (rather then putting it in gear and easing into the throttle) and if so will it the boat go?

My buddies malibu does this. His has electronic ignition. Im subscribed to get any tips to help him fix it.

I'm going to bet your coil is getting to much voltage heating up then shutting down till it cools down.
Check these things and get back to us...
1) what is the OHM rating of the coil and is it a resisted coil or not.
2) Is the ballast resistor bypassed and/or what voltage do you have going from that to the coil.

My theory is the PO has bypassed the ballast resistor and has 12v going into a non-resisted coil causing the coil to overheat.

A DUI is a big "chunk of jing" that you don't need to spend, you already have a brand new distributor!!