Ring & Finger Removal on '86 2001

Have you considered the super delux boom mount in the "store" on this site? It will solve your issue and save some bloodied knuckles.

If you can find a used Flite Pipe extended pylon the ring & finger can stay.
Heard where some guys have great luck with it sliding right out and others have lifted the boat from the ring after the pins are removed. Definitely want to start soaking it in some strong penetrating fluid like homebrew 50/50 acetone/atf mix or I think it's Kroll & liquid wrench that rate the next best.

Some idiot cut mine off flush, so I been drilled and tapped it for a 1/2" threaded bolt and put fender fashers on the top of the pylon with the center hole of the washer slightly bigger than the diameter of the piece left in the pylon. I go down and throw another twist on the bolt I ran into it every once and a while and its been soaking with all kinds of different penetrating oils and under tension now for about a month and it hasn't moved a bit. Have a feeling its going to have to be drilled out at a machine shop eventually.

86er,
The reason we have the Deluxe Boom Mount in the store is because it solves this exact issue. No need to remove or damage the ring while adding a boom extension.

If you don't go this route, I do have some experience to share ...

I've had to deal with this issue on two separate occasions. Once, I had an 86 with the ring cut and I needed to remove the remaining brass from the pylon. Another time I tried to remove a ring from the replacement pylon (no luck).

I can tell you they all have 'roll pins' that need to be tapped out. With the ring, what you have is an aluminum pylon with a 1" bore down the center and a chrome platted brass ring with 1"x4" shaft that goes into the aluminum pylon.

As someone has said, sometimes then just separate after removing the roll pins. This is very rare however. 20+ years of aluminum and brass locked together makes for a decent weld.

For starters spray with lubricating oil and let it sit a day or two.

If you have the means to do this, you can thread a 2" strap through the ring to something overhead and slowly 'pull' the ring with medium tension (too much and you will warp the ring). Long periods of medium tension is what you're going for. I've heard this can take up to a week to accomplish but I've heard it works.

Others have inserted a board or pipe into the ring to try to gain leverage at twisting it loose. Be very careful with this technique as you can easily damage the brass ring.

If the ring was cut off by a PO, you're only option is to get a 1" drill bit and slowly drill out the brass. I've done this and it's an easy way to break a wrist as the bit over bites the brass and wrenches your wrist. Go slow with light pressure.

Last option is to find a replacement pylon with the ring already cut off or damaged. Then you can just swap out the entire pylon (this too has it's problems however as the old pylon sometimes does not want to come out of the boat).

Good luck!

Keith wrote: If the ring was cut off by a PO, you're only option is to get a 1" drill bit and slowly drill out the brass. I've done this and it's an easy way to break a wrist as the bit over bites the brass and wrenches your wrist. Go slow with light pressure.

Keith,
Your problem with drilling brass is because you didn't sharpen the bit correctly! All it takes it to "dull" the cutting edge by grinding a flat on the cutting edge parallel to the bits length. This removes the positive rake on the cutting edge. Sorry the picture isn't very big but you can see the flat in the "K" view.



Also, here's a you tube on it.
Sharpening drill bits for brass and plastic

I would pull the pylon, drive the roll pins out, turn it up side down and soak the top foot in a 50:50 ATF:Acetone.

You might as well soak it in air.

You might as well soak it in air.


Bout right. That stuff is worthless.

Keep in mind I have a complete unit for sale if needed. I have not attempted to remove the R/F