Prop key way is sheered

So, how did you attach the lamp to the lamp base ?

Remove the 4 bolts in 'A'.

The cut shaft will slide out the brass fitting with safety wire. You will want to 're-pack' the brass fitting (called gland) before you reinstall the new shaft (it is easy).

The rear floor panel just pulls up & forward. Just give it some brute force.

I'm not sure what the trans coupling is. Im guessing it's "A" Remove these four bolts and don't bother with the two safety wired clamp bolts?

Whoops. That last question was for a different forum.

Adam,
Sawing the old shaft just aft of the trans coupling will save you the time needed to remove the coupling half from the shaft. It's a heat shrink fit and they can be difficult to remove. This of course is if the coupling and shaft hasn't fretted wearing out the heat shrink fit. Fretting is caused by bad alignment between the engine and prop shaft.

As long as you have the shaft out, it's not a bad idea to install a new cutlass. Shaft and rudder packing is also a good idea.

No special tools will be needed.

Removing your old shaft and installing the new will be the same for clearance aft of the boat. Just lower your jack stand if needed.

lol it would def go with the decor of my basement bar. good job on the lamp i like it.
check PMs

I saved the prop and made a cool lamp just like DayTony suggested.
It's now a classy piece of home decor.

8122, Yes I heeded your advise early and got lapping compound and some prussian blue.
So I'm ready for some councel on the shaft swap.
Why would I saw out the od shaft? The bend is after the cutlass bearing.
What else should I purchase in advance? seals for rudder and drive shaft for install?
Cutlass bearing?
Any special tools?

I obviously have to make some ground clearance to get the shaft out. Is that one of the ARE? If I cut the old one out the ARE does not need as much clearance to go in?

Your a pretty funny guy, Glad you got it off.
A grinder can get it done quick.   .50 thou shaft movement is no good.
The ARE set up does work very easy.

What is the big plus with the A.R.E. shafts?

By "Sticks" I meant 4 1/2" cutting wheel.   That stuff may look like brass but you were right, it felt as hard to grind/cut as any metal out there.

Well the good news is that the shaft has only 50 thou of runout. The bad new is well actually the good new is all I can handle.

Adam,
How about some pictures of the prop? I'm trying to understand how you broke the Acme puller trying to get it off but then were able to remove it with wood sticks?? Have you checked the shaft again as recommended?

DayTony wrote: I would def say the nut may have been loose or there was not a proper lap as well. .

8122pbrainard wrote: our props are held on by a close fitting taper. According to one of the prop manufacturers, 70% of the torque is said to be transmitted through this fit and the rest is the key/keyway. I personally feel it's 100% because the taper fit shouldn't slip at all. I've seen some pretty sloppy keys with 0 evidence that any force has been applied to them.

8122pbrainard wrote: Keep in mind that a taper is the only thing that holds a drill chuck in a drill press spindle!! Also, take note of Eric's comment that many trans components are held together with tapers only. No nuts!!! Think about why a puller is needed to get a prop off!!

I've seen boats come in with the nut missing and the prop still on. Sure is evidence that a properly fit prop on the shaft works. The nut's purpose is to seat the prop on it's taper.

Hollywood wrote: I've never seen a sheered key. That would take some serious energy, enough to wipe out the prop and rudder. .

I'd have to say the chances are high that the prop wasn't lapped on the shaft and not firmly attached so it was being driven by the key only.