Prop key way is sheered

Adam,
How about some pictures of the prop? I'm trying to understand how you broke the Acme puller trying to get it off but then were able to remove it with wood sticks?? Have you checked the shaft again as recommended?

Well the good news is that the shaft has only 50 thou of runout. The bad new is well actually the good new is all I can handle.

By "Sticks" I meant 4 1/2" cutting wheel.   That stuff may look like brass but you were right, it felt as hard to grind/cut as any metal out there.

What is the big plus with the A.R.E. shafts?

Your a pretty funny guy, Glad you got it off.
A grinder can get it done quick.   .50 thou shaft movement is no good.
The ARE set up does work very easy.

8122, Yes I heeded your advise early and got lapping compound and some prussian blue.
So I'm ready for some councel on the shaft swap.
Why would I saw out the od shaft? The bend is after the cutlass bearing.
What else should I purchase in advance? seals for rudder and drive shaft for install?
Cutlass bearing?
Any special tools?

I obviously have to make some ground clearance to get the shaft out. Is that one of the ARE? If I cut the old one out the ARE does not need as much clearance to go in?

I saved the prop and made a cool lamp just like DayTony suggested.
It's now a classy piece of home decor.

lol it would def go with the decor of my basement bar. good job on the lamp i like it.
check PMs

Adam,
Sawing the old shaft just aft of the trans coupling will save you the time needed to remove the coupling half from the shaft. It's a heat shrink fit and they can be difficult to remove. This of course is if the coupling and shaft hasn't fretted wearing out the heat shrink fit. Fretting is caused by bad alignment between the engine and prop shaft.

As long as you have the shaft out, it's not a bad idea to install a new cutlass. Shaft and rudder packing is also a good idea.

No special tools will be needed.

Removing your old shaft and installing the new will be the same for clearance aft of the boat. Just lower your jack stand if needed.

Whoops. That last question was for a different forum.

I'm not sure what the trans coupling is. Im guessing it's "A" Remove these four bolts and don't bother with the two safety wired clamp bolts?

Remove the 4 bolts in 'A'.

The cut shaft will slide out the brass fitting with safety wire. You will want to 're-pack' the brass fitting (called gland) before you reinstall the new shaft (it is easy).

The rear floor panel just pulls up & forward. Just give it some brute force.

So, how did you attach the lamp to the lamp base ?

Thanks Pete for the correction. It's been almost 10 yrs since I did this, thanks to the gore-tex packing!

DrCC wrote: So, how did you attach the lamp to the lamp base ?

You must be asking DayTony. Mine is a clamp light and it's sitting on a wood box that was kicking around.