Prop key way is sheered

that protective plate should unbolt pretty easily. if i remember i only unbolted one side of mine and it gave me enough clearance but you might have to unbolt both sides. they are like 5/8 bolts.
lower the tongue and should slip out easily.
as for shaft length i don't know but a good number to write down is if you take a tape and go through the hole to the mounting flange surface on the gear(transmission) and to the aft end of the strut. you want it to be a hair longer than that, maybe 1/2" between prop fitment and strut.
Some of the guys who have done this i'm sure will pipe in about best shaft size for your application. since its not a cut to length deal.

The protective plate is a welded part of the trailer. How wise/unwise is it to lift at this point on the hull with a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood as a pad? Will I crack the gel coat?

oh my bad, my trailer that frame is removable, i suspect just for that reason.

Congrats.
Spray down your motor mount adjusters with penetrating oil, try not to overspray everywhere. and order up a fresh shaft and wheel. If you need a hand with setup some afternoon I'm sure I can donate a little time.

So, Did you sheer the pin on chebacco or was it somewhere else? there are some real shallow areas in that lake you have to be careful of. I have hit bottom in that lake more times than i like to admit in the BFN but i draw at least a foot more than you do in the sport.

So I have my ARE shaft and will be installing it soon. What's my best resource for motor alignment procedure and any other steps to ensure a good install of the shaft? Even thoguh I may have some local help I would like to read up on it as much as possible in advance.
Thanks Again, Adam

Prop Shaft video good Basics for set up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc

BaccoBouncer wrote: Anyone know where I can find the A.R.E. install manual online? I didn't see a link through DIM or in a google search. Too much comes up for ARE

Adam,
There should have been some basic instructions with the shaft system. Not much in them since the install is like other shaft installs with the exception on tightening down the forward coupling on the taper.

Perfect thanks! It has the torque for the nut which was the main thing I was looking for.

From MrmCD's post I see that I may have an issue if the shaft isn't center with the log. ( Is the log the hole in the bottom of the hull for the shaft to enter. it was clearly to one side. So this with the fact that the couplings did not line up probably means I need to align the strut. looks like from his post I should be able to shim with SS washers but keep it under 0.100".

How do I determine the strut is bent from the prop strike? What do I do it if it is?

oh ok. I thought you were saying I have to do something else if it is bent vs just misaligned. If I'm not centered on the log then start aligning the strut. Is it true what he said in the video that the cutlass bearing should have zero play?

Mine was bent by the owner I bought the boat from. The prop had been repaired but the boat had a strong vibration. This is two years ago and memory is not perfect but I will try and share. That was my first issue with a bent strut and this forum helped get it perfect again.
They had run mine enough while vibrating to ruin the coupler at the tranny.
I took my rudder out, this gave me extra room and I wanted to make sure the packing was good.
I made a small tower out of a 2x4 about 6" tall and cut a v shape in the top. I used this to keep the prop shaft from sagging from its own weight and supported the front of the shaft a few inches back from the tranny with this block while I played with the strut alignment.   
The shaft will sag a little when sitting loose in your strut and log.   Find the spot where your prop shaft spins with zero drag or the very least amount of drag while in the strut.
This is the happy spot. Hopefully your shaft while in this happy spot is very close to perfect alignment with your tranny. Again I only used the 2x4 to keep the front of the shaft on the engine side from sagging. If you slide it too far to the log and lift the shaft is will add drag, Too far to the front by the tranny and it allows sag and adds drag.
My installed shaft was not pointing at my tranny so I had to bend the strut a little and then had to work on the vertical alignment to get it right.   I was adjusting the verticle alignment when I added shims and sanded the strut. I hope yours is very close and you don't need to do any of this.
Slip your shaft into the strut and log, move it forward till it is close to your tranny. Spin it by hand. There should be nearly zero drag. I did use the newer plastic cutlass bearings which offer very low drag.   Lubricate your strut before install to make sure you have low drag. It will help find the happy spot.
While it is spinning freely and in the happy spot slip it to the tranny and see if it aligns so you can slip it right up and connect it. If you need to move it right or left or up or down you are not aligned.

Your picture shows bolt D and mount E. Loosen D and you can move C in and out of E.
If you need this adjustment you need to loosen both sides of the engine. Doing one side will not. I use a large pry bar and a couple short 2x4 blocks to pry against so I don't damage the fiberglass. Lubricate your adjusting mounts to ease the work.
Before you start adjusting think about what needs to happen to move your engine to perfect alignment for your happy shaft. Then start adjusting the 4 mounts to get there.
If your engine mounts can't get you in alignment you will need to adjust the strut.
Take your time and get this adjustment as close to perfect as you can.
After install mine would turn freely with one finger pushing the prop while fully bolted to the tranny. It has been vibration free since.

8122pbrainard wrote: Adam, A new cutlass should have close to zero play depending on both the shaft OD and the cutlass ID tolerances. Are you watching the alignment 101 video I linked? I only ask since you may be confused on who did the video.,

Oh that is you in the video. Fantastic instructional. I have to say usually people that are so good technically aren't so good looking.

If it's actually bent sending it out is best. Most prop shops can do it but you need to ask. If you know it's bent and are sending it in might as well as have them put a new cutlass in there too.

BaccoBouncer wrote: So the washer shimming is only for up and down? This would mean that you would always be symmetrical with the washers, what you do on starboard is what you do on port?

Adam,
The washers can be used for up and down and was even used at the factory before they went to more accurate methods of log and strut location. Washers can also be used for the port to starboard adjustment too if the strut isn't bent too much. Slightly elongating the holes in the hull can also be used to remove some twist. Get the shaft in part way almost to the log hole. Find the "happy" spot by lifting the front of the shaft removing the weight from the front and see how close to center of the hole you're at. If close, push the shaft through the log and check for that "happy" spot again. Resting the front of the shaft on a block of wood with a V in it as Mark describes is a good method so you don't need to struggle with the weight while checking for that happy spot. Hopefully your strut will be fine but as Gary mentions, a prop shop can straighten it. A machine shop is another option. Several of our members have straightened them themselves. You need a hydraulic arbor press and some fixturing like a L block. Report back to what you find. The strut alignment is the most difficult part of alignment.