1972 SN Promo Project

Yea......I figured it would not be easy to work with once set.

The hull really moved a lot when I was in it. As soon as I got an area smoothed in I would walk away and the shape of the filler would change. I have 7 support points and a set of boat dollies under the hull and it still moved a bit. I guess I will sand and smooth the areas I couldn't control.

Got the stringers bedded yesterday. It took 2 attempts, and let me tell you, the first one was not pretty.

As you guys know, I am figuring all this stuff out as I go. Two days ago I mixed a small batch of epoxy and milled fiber to see how it would act. I used 90 grams of resin and 30 grams hardener to make peanut butter. It worked great and was easy to adapt to my test piece. I calculated the amount i used on my 20" test and extrapolated it out to how much I would need for 2 - 16ft stringers. That is where the train came off the tracks.

For anyone trying this for the first time......DO NOT mix large amounts of 3:1 US Composite Epoxy. I started with 1200 grams and started adding milled fiber. The mixture stayed very liquid for 10-15min and then started to thicken. Right as it started to get creamy, it immediately set up and turned rock hard. I did not know how much heat this stuff gives off when it mixes. The more epoxy......the more heat......the quicker it "kicks" or turns solid.

The second attempt I cut the recipe in half and this ended up being worse. I got the peanut butter into baggies and into the boat to start applying. About 3 minutes into the application, the bag started heating up in my hands to the point I could not hold it. I had 2/3 of a stringer covered in epoxy that was quickly curing and turning unusable. Luckily, Steve and I were able to scrape all the epoxy off into a bucket before it hardened all the way. I threw my gloves, yelled a few choice words, and crawled into a bottle for the night.

Next morning after chatting with Tim, Steve and I gave it another crack. THIS time I only used 200 total grams of epoxy, added filler, and poured it into a ziplock sandwich baggie. I was in the boat applying the butter while Steve continuously made a series of 5 small batches of peanut butter. He kept handing them to me and I kept applying and scraping excess squeezeout. Here is my mixture for anyone looking for a starting point:

150g - resin
50g - hardener
25 - tbsp milled fiber (approx)
3 - tbsp cabosil (aprox)

It was a humid Wisconsin summer day around 84 degrees.








I am pretty happy so far with the results. The peanut butter was still tacky and movable when I left the boat an hour after the bedding. I will check on it tomorrow sometime to make sure everything stayed where it was supposed to be.

Question........What is the best method for sanding excess filler? There were a few spots that did not transition smoothly to form that nice 90 degree curve. I will have to go back and shape some of those areas and probably add a little more material in a few spots that "oil canned" when I was walking in the boat.

Depends on whether you can come pick it up before I have to move

Frankenotter—that’ll fit in the jump seat, no problem

Now for a few questions.

1. Does anyone have an extra forward engine mount.......loop.........pin.......thingy. Mine has gone missing between the machine shop, disassembly, and moving parts.




2. Can someone measure the distance from the floor to the bottom of the dash? mine seems very tight right now. Especially since i don't have cushion on the seat yet.

When i left the boat last fall, I was in the middle of making new primary stringers from scratch. There were a few reasons for this, but mostly because i was adding an engine cradle and going with the "floating floor". I decided that it was smart to do a test fit of the old block and trans on the new stringers to verify alignment before permanently gluing the stringers in place. Here are a few pics of the setup. I just wanted to make sure it was close. The engine mounts on the trans were cocked a little which is why there looks to be lateral misalignment. It was a horrible process trying to wrestle the block in place by myself while being mindful to not step on the thin floor areas.

I had wondered about this project thought it had been parted out.....

Ii have done a lot of searching and I believe it's a 17200-0000.

Jabsco huh? My 70-71 Chrysler’s have sherwoods. Single or dual pocket?

I'm also overhauling the Jabsco raw water pump. As you can see, the shielded bearings were seized. They are Hoover 77203-625 bearings. Not made anymore. However, for anyone trying to service one of these bad boys, just call your local bearing joint and tell them you need a 5/8" ID, 40mm OD, and 12mm wide shielded bearing.

Everything was just press fit and held in place with a retaining ring.

Welcome to chapter 30.......The Wild World of Water Pumps

So, I ordered the OEM rebuild kit that Joe found. Thanks Joe! It turns out the parts and even the shape of the impellor are exactly the same as original.





The gasket arrived crusty and broken but I'm not super concerned about that. What IS concerning, is the company that Tim found to overhaul water pumps is MIA. I was in contact with them for a week about doing the rebuild and I was ready to send them the parts. Litterally overnight, their website wend down, phone is off the hook, and no replies on their facebook page.

http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/


I'm trying to resist the urge to rebuild this thing myself. I have access to a full machine shop and 20 ton press. Has anyone ever attempted doing this?

Duane only builds from scratch.

Buy 2 kits, don't bother coating. Change it in 20-25 years. You won't care after that.

63 Skier wrote: What's the stock HP of the 340? Is the plan to stay stock, or warmer?

Depends on what decal you put on

Duane in Indy wrote: The rusty impeller in the video looks identical to the one in the kit. At least to me it does. ( previous statement about making on one the CNC sounds like more fun though)

Yeah CNC or laser cut the blank and form up the blades—better yet just get it 3d printed—wait—it’s only $50!

Chris—I’d definitely get the steel impeller e-coated.