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1972 SN Promo Project

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 9:48pm
Chris,
The work is looking great Keep going when it gets warmer or get some heat in the garage. FYI, HD has some specials going on now for insulating 2x4 walls!


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 9:41pm
Cut your losses and buy the 28k boat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 5:49pm
I started shaping the stringer tops but I'm taking my sweet a$$ time to get them done correctly. As previously discussed, the lip of the old floor will act as a base for the floating floor of the new design. I wanted to make sure that there was a slight angle toward the bilge to encourage water to run to the center instead of pooling on the outsides along the sidewalls. Taking this into account with the potential thicknesses of the glass being layered on the stringer took some time. Most importantly, I wanted to make sure the height and dimension of the engine mounts were being accurately cut for the use of an engine cradle.

I have it marked up and ready for one more series of cuts that will also account for the subfloor around the driver/observer seat. Ill try ti get some video of the progress when it's all fit.

Since the temps have finally taken a nosedive here in Wisconsin, it looks like the CPES, peanutbutter, glassing process will have to wait until spring or early summer.

In the meantime, deconstruction will be commencing on this little guy.


My plan is to tear it down and get it to the machine shop sometime after the holidays. From there I can start gathering the parts needed to rebuild this summer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-09-2017 at 5:36pm
It's been a while since I put an update here. Summer was busy and I tired to keep a careful balance of work, skiing, and working on the promo.

I ordered the first round of supplies from US Composites so I would be ready to start glassing once the mains were shaped. Therein, lays the speed bump. I was able to finally scribe, cut, and shape the bottom of the stringer to get it within roughly 1/8" along the length of the hull.

Here you can see the left side stringer is fully shaped and the right side was in progress.


Both sides complete and now onto shaping the tops.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 7:12pm
The 50" biaxial would be cut into strips. 12' for each side of the primary stringer (24" total) plus enough left over for the cap of each primary.

What type of "cloth" would you suggest for the subfloor? there seems to be 90 choices of "cloth". lol

I also need to re-glass the transom components back in. would I just use normal cloth for that as well? (I.e. - exhaust ports and transom lifting ring mount)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 6:52pm
Layup looks good to me (lol).

What's the 50" wide biax for? I'd likely be putting a layer or 2 of cloth on the front (sub) floor section... quicker and easier (and a lot less resin) than biax or even mat. Doesn't need any impact resistance with a ply floor going over it- just sealed up and a little strength.

I find that the narrower the tape, the more handy it is- I end up going through a lot of 2" and 4" and not a whole heck of a lot of 8" (at least beyond what my initial plans call for). Looks like plenty of all 3 for this build though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 6:29pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Chris,
I feel your layup schedule is excessive. Maybe have of what you have drawn?


Its a pretty reasonable schedule, although with actual wood the biaxial might be a bit overkill - you could probably save some resin by using a mat instead - but people are all about the biaxial these days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 6:10pm
Chris,
I feel your layup schedule is excessive. Maybe half of what you have drawn? Let's see what the expert on CMU's has to say.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by 75 Tique 75 Tique wrote:

I confess. I had to look up CMU. Concrete Masonary Unit. Oh, OK, Cinder block.

Well I better grab my ink filled writing implement and get back to work. (impressed now?)


I did the same. Sometimes I don't know about these guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 5:58pm
I confess. I had to look up CMU. Concrete Masonary Unit. Oh, OK, Cinder block.

Well I better grab my ink filled writing implement and get back to work. (impressed now?)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 5:56pm



Here is my layup schedule.

I plan to make my own CPES to coat the doug fir.

The stringers will be bedded with epoxy mixed with cabosill and 1/32' milled fiber.

Glassing the stringers will consist of 2 layers of 2" tape (offsetting), 2 layers of 4" tape, 2 layers of 8" tape, 1 layer of biaxial 12" thick, and one layer of biaxial to cover the top of the stringer.

Secondary's will get one layer of 2', 4', and 8' tape with a biaxial cover.



Here is my component list so far from US Composites. Please feel free to suggest anything I missed or shouldn't purchase.




The 2 questions I have yet to answer before the materials are ordered, are;

1. what type of mat should I use for the sidewalls of the boat? (under the gunnel)

2. what type of dye should I use for the bilge (assuming I epoxy the bilge).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 5:36pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

He's been taking too much or Mr. Tim's advice
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrfUSsh47ryL63PM7NNenGRLnRrjhsjU95_Vg_KLgU6sU5kpFAAA

They may be stronger stacked vertically as intended but they're plenty strong sideways (and the risk is quite low when the trailer remains underneath).

I feel we need to steer Chris away from Tim's advice. It's obvious Tim isn't familiar with the ASTM C90 standards!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

He's been taking too much or Mr. Tim's advice
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRrfUSsh47ryL63PM7NNenGRLnRrjhsjU95_Vg_KLgU6sU5kpFAAA

They may be stronger stacked vertically as intended but they're plenty strong sideways (and the risk is quite low when the trailer remains underneath).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 5:06pm
If he got the blocks at Home Depot I hear there is a guy there that would have instructed him on proper block orientation.

Unless Chris has 4 buddies in the boat working with him I think it will be OK.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 4:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 3:57pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Chris,
Do you know that you have the CMU's in the wrong position at least at the stem? The cores need to be positioned vertical for strength. Picture a CMU wall!!


I have to say I agree with this. Not saying that you will have a problem with them breaking but id be willing to bet if you've ever seen them crumble it would make you set them correctly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 3:36pm
I think those straps were a production aid more than any kind of structural member- so I wouldn't go crazy adding too many ribs... just a few to support/provide a nailer for the floor. Maybe 2 per side since you'll be doing a sub floor up front? You'll also want to add a little reinforcement under the lip of the original glass floor that you left behind. With the ski pockets installed it will be hard to put much weight on outer floor edge that the lip is supporting, but it'd be nice to hold some weight without deflection.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:44pm
There will be several advantages to doing this method.

1. there will be no foam to cause future rot. The ribs will provide support.
2. No straps. Apparently this is a known weak spot in the original design where the glass would fail. Evidenced in my case by the big gaping holes in the stringers when I acquired the boat.
3. With the use of an engine cradle, the floating floor will provide access to the through bolts if I need to remove the eninge down the road. The floor will be covered with the original grey vinyl and the aluminum track to bolt it down.

I think the subfloor in the cockpit and the airbox will be the only areas that get directly glasses to the hull. I will also be glassing a sheet of either biaxial or mat to the sidewalls to "beef up" the areas I removed the gel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:37pm
Which brings us to the part of the story where planning is involved. I have been consulting with Mr. Tim about the rebuild plan for this boat for quite a while now. As mentioned in a previous post, the current plan is to do a simple system of stringers with ribs, a small subfloor in the cockpit to provide an anchor for the seating, and a floating floor (not glassed to the hull) on the entire boat.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:24pm
Hey Pete, I see what you're saying but it took so much work to get this &&?#€¥~* level that I think she's staying right there. The boat is rock solid now.

Tim I have to get down to HWs this week sometime to grab the goods. Thank you again for the amazing find. I will be addressing the cradle/pylon plan very soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:10pm
Good plan. You pick up your pylon and clearance bar yet?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:09pm
Chris,
Do you know that you have the CMU's in the wrong position at least at the stem? The cores need to be positioned vertical for strength. Picture a CMU wall!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:09pm
Tim had to walk me though the leveling process, but I will post a video of what I did to make sure the hull was straight.

A few weeks ago Mr. Skutch came by to help me acquire some Douglas Fir. The lumberyard was quite mistaken on what they actually had in stock and tried to sell me regular pine. in the end, I ended up getting 2x8x18 for $14.50 per board. Obviously I will end up cutting it all down in the next few weeks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-31-2017 at 2:04pm
Summer is just floating along and with it comes a decrease in desire to lay in a hot garage working on a boat. I haven't made much progress since the last post but I thought I'd take a study break and post what's about to happen.

First off, I got the old trailer out from under the boat and put it up for sale. My intension was to use the Correct Craft trailer (that I acquired from the Benjamins) to support the boat with the aid of some chine and stern supports. I didn't realize how high the boat sits when it's on this type of trailer.


I decided that I didn't want to be climbing that high in and out of the boat during the glassing process. Plus......I wasn't happy with the location of the bunks relative to the hull. They sat in between the keel and the chine which bowed the hull. With this in mind, I decided to use the boat dollies as a safety net and block the hull with cinder blocks and wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-28-2017 at 1:38am
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:



Ask mars... no foam, ribs or structural floor in his promo. It's solid.



Yep! My Promo is very solid and no issues.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2017 at 9:30pm
No ribs needed. 2nd gen SN and earlier/smaller hulls are rigid enough to not need a structural floor. The fiberglass skin over the foam was very thin from the factory. The wood topper floor was needed for impact resistance.

Ask mars... no foam, ribs or structural floor in his promo. It's solid.

The thinner layups and larger spans on the 2001 and later boats is a different ballgame.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2017 at 9:15pm
Ahh... that makes sense...    I do think not adding extra ribs would cause the non-tied surface to be greater (adding the distance from the original floor to the secondary) that could be problematic.   When you add the ribs, the unsupported side area remains the same as the factory design, just a different connection point.     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frankenotter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2017 at 9:07pm
Kris I think that's where the ribs would come into play. I would be adding ribs off the secondary's to the sidewalls. I would also replace the straps of wood connecting the stringers with ribs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2017 at 8:54pm
No stones to throw from my direction, but I am curious about the floating floor idea.    Wouldn't the floor attached to the hull sides provide some stability to keep the hull from flexing while sitting on the trailer, or in a bouncing/choppy water situation?    In my thinking, pressure from the weight of the hull on the trailer bunks would want to bow the hull sides out.   The floor seems like it would provide some stability to keep the hull sides from spreading if it were fastened to the sides.    obviously the hull would be compressed by the water around it, when the boat was floating, so I don't see that as much of an issue.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-27-2017 at 8:44pm
The rationale for leaving the lip was for the floating floor... regardless of material choice.
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