Detached Garage

Man, you guys are spending some money! Woo hoo!

Cedar shakes in the gable will be vinyl same as on the house. The pool structure is more of what I'd call a cabana. It's a roof with a wall across the back, but there are no other walls or any type of enclosure. No bathroom under that roof.

I agree with most all of the comments about building it bigger, but i think it's just going to need to stay the 20x28. It just gets too close to the house for our liking to make it wider plus there's the cost to consider. I'm never putting 2 boats or a boat AND a car in this garage. The space unused by the boat, will be a small space for me to piddle. The side setbacks are a firm 20' and my neighbor is going to ensure that I don't violate that policy.

I'm very appreciative of the comments. I expected most to suggest making it wider, but fellas, this will be so much better than anything I've ever had for storage and piddling, I just don't see much regret in building it this way. This is probably a 10-15 year house for my family. Who knows what the next chapter will hold for boats, storage, piddling. If the worst I can say about it is that it should've been bigger, well that's not a terrible problem to have. Maybe I can build the next one bigger, but the men in my family all tell me that no matter how big it is, I'll wish it was bigger.

Interesting... I knew there were some issues with some of the fiber cement sidings, but didn't realize Hardie was that bad. What about LP Smartside/engineered wood? Better yet, what kind of shake shingle would Pete use on a dog house? [/QUOTE]

All My experience with the LP smartsiding is its just like the fiber cement, even if all joints and exposed ends are painted or treated with something per their requirements they all still absorbs moisture. I see alot these products rot much quicker than the manufacturer's expected live span. I always tell customers, wood should not be outside. Vinyl and PVC for the long haul.

8122pbrainard wrote: bb12 wrote: I'd go with Hardie fiber cement shake shingles on the gable ends. They look great and you won't have to worry about maintenance. Hardie Shake Shingles You had better read the reviews!!! Lot's of problems with the Hardie siding products. I just had a customer in the HD the other day with issues Busting at the holes and falling off! Read all about the complaints and problem I wouldn't use the stuff on a dog house!!

Interesting... I knew there were some issues with some of the fiber cement sidings, but didn't realize Hardie was that bad. What about LP Smartside/engineered wood? Better yet, what kind of shake shingle would Pete use on a dog house?

8122pbrainard wrote: [QUOTE=bb12]] I wouldn't use the stuff on a dog house!!

X2. It's garbage and people that think its great just don't know the bad side of yet.

Swatkinz wrote: Thought about making it wider, but that gets really tight to the house as I have a 20' side setback that I have to consider.

Steve,
Confirm the setback. In some areas, the setback for a detached garage is 1/2 the setback of the house. As an example, this is true at my old location in Illinois as well as up here in Wisconsin.

PLBC wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: Steve, What's your min. setback for a detached garage? Pete, original post says 20'.

Kurt,
Thanks, I missed the set back but, I still feel Steve can get more room in the garage by moving it back and parallel to the lot line.. He'd have to lay it out if he wants.

bb12 wrote: I'd go with Hardie fiber cement shake shingles on the gable ends. They look great and you won't have to worry about maintenance. Hardie Shake Shingles

You had better read the reviews!!! Lot's of problems with the Hardie siding products. I just had a customer in the HD the other day with issues Busting at the holes and falling off! Read all about the complaints and problem I wouldn't use the stuff on a dog house!!

Steve,
What's your min. setback for a detached garage? I ask since I would kick the proposed garage parallel to the lot line on it's left, make it deeper moving the rear towards or even next to the pool and then go as wide as you can. (re grade excavation needed) Yes on the kick out bath - double door it so it could be used from the garage or the pool.

A comment was made about the cedar shakes on the gable ends being expensive. They do make fake shake siding in vinyl that's a reasonable cost. We sell it at the HD!

It's too bad the pool wasn't on the other side,
As far as the Brick goes it doesn't have to go all the way up, go smaller windows and have the brick go up to the bottom of the windows then siding the rest of the way.
For the floor insulate it and run pex tubing now you can hook up heat later on.
As far as the bathroom goes you could do a bump out .

Quite a few homes down under on smaller blocks have a front and rear garage door so vehicle access to backyard is through garage. Then you could go a lot wider

Hi I like workshops. I built mine 50 x 32 deep. If you want to be able to put a work bench on the end wall and be able to walk between the table and the boat give yourself room. If you are too close will have to be careful not to bump into the back wall or work bench. Enjoy the shop.   I to, am real good at spending other people's money.

Someone needs to chime in with tower overall height, I don't have one so have no idea. No question that adding height to the whole structure adds quite a bit, from framing through exterior finishes. When I first posted I hadn't noticed that the 8' door went nearly to the top of the wall already.

Steve, I'm really good at spending other peoples money! But, you hear the general theme from all of us, bigger is better, bigger is more convenient, bigger is more capable and useful.

On your budget, I echo Tony's comment, up here I doubt I could put that structure up for $50,000. We'd need frost walls and 6" slab.

One more comment, and this one is overkill but useful - if in the construction you can frame up a lifting point somewhere you'd find over time it would come in useful. Harder to do on a free span 20' or 24' building.

I have a 20 ft wide garage and it not wide enough. Going 24' is money well spent. Extra height is a big plus too. If it were me I would be build as big as the law (and neighbors ) allows.

Although the garage would start getting a bit tall, going to a higher door would be a huge bonus! As an example, folding the tower on my 206 is easily a 5-10 minute job, remove cover up the windshield minimum, remove bimini and boot it, fold tower. If no bimini then it's really not that big a deal and even easier on the sport 200 towers. W/Bimini doing that every in/out will get old real fast.

Why the cedar shake at the gable, is that detail on the home somewhere? Like the look of a different detail there however if this is the only place it occurs you may want to reconsider that and just use lap siding there. Would lose the soffit/shingle detail or reduce it to the first 24" similar to the front elevation of the house @ brick and lose it all together at the rear elevation. Use a horizontal trim board in lieu. Definitely move the man door towards the front on the same side.
Whatever the sideyard setback is slam garage tight enough to get to the 24' width, typically those setbacks are a total for both sides with a minimum for either.
Regarding the HOA, frowning is one thing, cannot is another, that masonry all around will cost some $$$, if you have no preference do masonry front only.
Do you plan to stick build or truss the roof? Makes a big difference in you ability to utilize the storage space, with the roof pitch you have the second floor would be very usable as a loft space if stick built.

I'll have 9' between the DG and the house with the current 20x28 dimension.