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Stringer rebuild 1987 Ski Nautique 2001

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2017 at 3:18pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Lee
In your mind there's no problem here and I really don't see any sense in discussing this with someone who figures he's smarter than the people who make the regulations and the people who manufacture the stuff to meet those regs..

Ken
Correct, those USCG rules are just made up by idiots who really just want to make things difficult and aren't even thinking about safety!

Lee, you are forgetting an important aspect of a mechanical fuel pump. That it's capable of pumping way more fuel than is needed by the engine so, even with a seal or diaphragm problem, the carb is getting plenty of gas.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2017 at 3:20pm
I dunno - if it starts to fail and is both running lean (hot) and with thinned out oil from the fuel in the oil one mistimed barefoot run could be your last on that motor. Particularly if the guy familiar with the boat is behind it and not driving it.   Not super likely of course but a bummer for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Watauga Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-21-2017 at 3:38pm
Lee,
I appreciate your hard work and long hours you invested in the old gal, you should be able to enjoy her many more days. Congratulations!

A couple of questions. It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new? It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull? What was you process? If you left some of the old fiberglass how did you achieve adhesion?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2017 at 7:02pm
Watauga, i am going to answer all your questions. Just haveing a busy week.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-24-2017 at 9:24pm
Watauga,

Here we go I will go through all your questions and hope I answer the best I can. I am sure that the "experts" on this site will find fault in or a better way to do it. I am not a boat mechaninc but I am very good at what I do. I am a carpenter a machinist and a decent mechanic.

"It looks like you partially removed the primary stringers, and did not disturb the airbox. If that is true, how did you join the remaining existing stringers with the new?" I removed all the primary stringers up to the first bulkhead where they were solid after that. I joind them with biscuits, epoxy and fiberglassed the *************** out of them.

"It also appears that when you removed the primaries and secondairies that you left some of the existing stringer fiberglass lamination intact. Did you install the new primaries and secondaries against the remaining vertical fiberglass or did you actually remove it before bedding the new stringers to the hull?" We used the existing stringer fiberglass to set the new stringers to get the right width, hight and just for stability when setting the new ones. We then used epoxy to set them in place and we cut the old material out and fiberglass out and replaced it with new fiberglass.

We did not use any of the old fiberglass to bond to we just used it as a templet and a base set to work off of.

As stated I am sure there are other ways to do it and I am sure you will hear about it. This was my way hope this works and please ask if you have any more questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2017 at 9:50pm
Just got the boat from the shop and have it at the house now. Got it running like a top and it is looking good. All I need to do is put the drivers chair in. We are taking it to the lake house next weekend for the summer. Can't wait to get pulled !!





































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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-29-2017 at 10:01pm
The wake tower is a Big Air $550 off their web site. The top I made myself. I had some 1" steal tubing I bent it with my bender welded some bracing in it and made the front supports out of 1/2" tube. I put a 15 degree down slope in it. Painted it black ordered the Sunbrella fabric off Amazon along with the grommet kit. Had the wife sew it up and tied it into the frame with 550 cord. The whole thing cost me $200. It has saved many hours of not getting sun burned on the lake. It is the best thing I could have done to the boat if I am going to be pulling teenage kids all day. Love it best $200 I have eves spent.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 11:12am
Ok after lots of thinking and research I decided to take the advise of a few people and run my gas return line back into my carb insted of the vent line on the gase takn. I plugged the tee that I put on the vent line. I didnt want the line exposed and I didnt want to have to modify my K&N flame arrester fliter. So I got a 1/4" bulk head and drilled a 3/8" hole under the housing and ran it up that way. Still gives it that clean look and serves the purpose of running the gas line in to the carb. Lets hear what you think.















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 11:20am
Got her back on the lake this weekend. She ran smooth only one tiny oil leak on one of the valve cover gaskets. The rubber gaskets I got from Summit Racing for $39 were leaking. I went to Auto Zone got 2 cork gaskest for $16 and it sealed it right up. Ran it all day Saturday and Sunday no Issues. Re-set the speedometers with my GPS they were only about 2 MPH off. It felt tight and ran great.

















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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 2:36pm
Well since I was the one who originally brought it up I guess I can be the first one to say "Good job, I like it"

It keeps the fuel tank vent line configured the way it's supposed to be too.

Glad you did some research about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 4:19pm
Lee

Nothing urgent but do you think sometime you could take a picture looking straight down at your distributor with the cap and rotor removed so the weights and springs are clearly visible?

If you could add it to this thread or PM me, either would be fine

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 8:47pm
Keno,

Here is the distributor I used. PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Marine Distributors with Ignitor II® Module D231800 I just had to swap out the gears to the RR gear.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fanofccfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2017 at 10:31pm
Good looking boat and clean work. Looks great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2017 at 6:08am
Originally posted by lharley lharley wrote:

Keno,

Here is the distributor I used. PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Marine Distributors with Ignitor II® Module D231800 I just had to swap out the gears to the RR gear.


Got it, For some reason I was thinking you had an Ignitor 3 setup that I'm not familiar with..

I'm familiar with what you have and like them a lot. Many trouble free years on those modules and that same distributor despite what some people on here think.

Notice that I didn't even mention your name Pete, I just said "some people"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DCIndustries Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-10-2017 at 4:38pm
Nice Work! I've been fixing up my 87 for about 3 years now.

Working in a machine shop have you ever considered cutting the dash panels out of .090 aluminum? I had it cut on a cnc router to fit my stereo and converted rocker switches. Painted to match. Came out great. I can get you cad files to get ya started if your interested.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JOE. R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2017 at 7:29am
Nice job. I recently bought a 87 Ski also. Thanks for sharing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote n7narcosis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2017 at 11:06am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blamey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2017 at 11:59am
Originally posted by DCIndustries DCIndustries wrote:




Is that Drivers seat a complete rebuild or is that a transplant from somewhere else?

I'd like to see more pics of your boat. I really like the look of the updated vinyl.

EDIT: Never mind I found your boat project post. Nice work. Still interested in how you did that drivers seat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote quinner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2017 at 12:11pm
That drivers seat looks to be a factory seat being used in the current model year CC's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DCIndustries Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2017 at 1:43pm
It's the current G Series seat. I managed to scrape together parts here and there, cut and stitched vinyl to match the rest of the boat. Haven't been able finish the custom driver's throttle panel or rear subcoamings so I haven't updated my post yet.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2017 at 10:27am
Great way to end a weekend !

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lharley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2017 at 10:47am
We ran her all weekend this past weekend and besides a little tuning on the carb and setting the tranny adjustment it ran great. She was shifting into gear a little soon causing a jerking. So I adjusted the throttle and tranny cables to allow it to shift into gear at 750 RPM and then there is just a tiny amount of slack before you give it throttle. It took maybe 30 min to get it right. Everything else seems solid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timr71 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2017 at 2:41pm
I had to make similar adjustment when I rebuilt my Morse 2 control connected with new throttle and shift cables.

The boat looks great! You should really enjoy it.
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