GT40 engine help. Please!

I'll try to answer this one.
First it is a regular type fuel hose. I think the reason they fail is due to the fact they are submersed in fuel all the time and they tend to develop holes and or cracks in them and they cause a pressure issue.

Brian,

Next time you change the FCC filter, replace the 2.5” hose that suspends the high pressure fuel pump.

Also keep a watchful eye for fuel leaks around the power wires on the top of the FCC.

Nautique Parts has a retrofit kit that 3 boats in my community needed this year. All 3 were 2001 or 2002 year models.

For your idle, do a search here on CCF for GT40 loping idle and good luck

Easiest way is to use Google, search "correctcraftfan GT40 loping idle"

You'll come up with something looking like this link

link

KENO wrote: I think as a start, I'd be checking the throttle body to see if it's physically hanging open some.when you move the throttle back to idle speed That's not a high idle, that's a screaming fast idle

So I replaced the cable and cleaned up both the throttle assembly and the throttle body and it fixed the sticking idle. So thank you @keno.

Now that it doesn’t stick the idle roams up and down at the bottom and I will see if I can sort that out.

Thank you all for all the help. You and this forum have been invaluable. Thank you for all the time that you give to helping all us less intelligent.

ill check that

... needed more fuel in the fuel tank.

It is steady. It doesn’t always go to 3k, sometimes it is 3500 and sometimes less.

Figured out the fuel supply issue.
Still having the idiling issues. Where should I be looking? The more I ran it, it seemed to get better but still would get hung up on high idles. Revving the engine would usually bring it back down.

man0seven wrote: Update - So we found at least one sets of wires crossed. Somehow 1 & 6 were reversed. Running much smoother. So now I think it is a matter of setting the timing correct. Only trouble we can’t find TDC on the wheel. Does anyone have an idea or pic of what it should look like? I am not sure if the rust and paint has made it unreadable or not.

Here's a picture of what the marks on the harmonic balancer should look like.

The picture is of a reverse rotation balancer, your's would be normal rotation so the markings/numbers will be going the other way from the TDC mark, but you should get the idea

I'd put the engine at or near TDC and look at the timing pointer mounted on the timing cover and the marks should be below the pointer since the engine runs.

To get the engine at/near TDC find the #1 terminal on the distributor cap and make a mark on the distributor body just below that with a magic marker, paint etc.

Then take the cap off and rotate the engine by hand till the rotor is pointing at that mark you made. A 15/16 socket on the harmonic balancer bolt works good to turn it over by hand.

Now look at the pointer and the graduations should be under the pointer.

You'll probably have to do some cleaning/wire brushing to be able to see them good enough.

Then you can put the cap on, get the timing light out and follow the directions in the manual from a handful of posts back and check the timing

Update - So we found at least one sets of wires crossed. Somehow 1 & 6 were reversed. Running much smoother. So now I think it is a matter of setting the timing correct. Only trouble we can’t find TDC on the wheel. Does anyone have an idea or pic of what it should look like? I am not sure if the rust and paint has made it unreadable or not.

I thought I read the PIP was the Ford equivalent of a cam position sensor ... so is the the cam or crank?

MrMcD wrote:    It is very important for the distributor to function correctly or the engine will not make power.

Probably not much in them now days since alot of their old functions are now controlled by the ECM right Mark? The PIP sensor must take the place of other makes crankshaft position sensor? I know some crankshaft sensors are in the most difficult places to get at to replace,being mounted in the distributor housing would make things alot easier

Pressure check in section 3H of GT40 service manual

Have you drained the transmission. If the engine was deep in the water the tranny was underwater. You may have a rusted up transmission in your boat with tons of drag.
Losing RPM while turning seems to point out your engine is way off on Horse Power.
Using a Dial Back Timing Light would allow you to watch your timing and see if it is working properly without tearing the distributor apart. The Dial Back feature allows you to check the exact timing at all the different RPM speeds.   Idle to 4,000. It is very important for the distributor to function correctly or the engine will not make power.

man0seven wrote: Fuel injected.

Well at least you don't have to worry about the carburetor, but that leaves you plenty of other stuff to deal with like computers and injectors and sensors.

In the link below is the 301 page GT40 service manual from the reference section here on CCF if you don't already have it

link

Like you said earlier, I think I'd be worried about the fuel system too after things sat for 8 years

SInce this is a 98 Ski Nautique and you say it's a GT40 that would mean it's fuel injected.

A 98 could also be had with a carbureted 351.

Many people confuse things as far as terminology goes on these engines and call the standard carbureted engine a GT40 which isn't right

So just to verify what you have ..............is it fuel injected or does it have a carburetor?

It'll make a big difference in how you go about getting it running right

Pictures of the engine and distributor would be good too