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    Posted: March-09-2019 at 10:10pm
I have most everything off , but when I removed the starter I noticed a little rust on the fly wheel. I was planning on leaving Trans and bell housing on for painting.
Question should I take them off or is the little rust normal-this has been sitting for a few years
Thanks
JT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 6:14am
John,
Your plan on leaving the bell housing and trans on the engine is good. When the engines were marinized, and painted, that's how it was done so the flywheel never got painted. The only ones that did get painted were on older FWF (flywheel forward) engines were the flywheels were exposed. However, you may what to R&R the damper plate on the flywheel since you have the engine pulled. .


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 6:31am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

I have most everything off , but when I removed the starter I noticed a little rust on the fly wheel. I was planning on leaving Trans and bell housing on for painting.
Question should I take them off or is the little rust normal-this has been sitting for a few years
Thanks
JT


I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal.

I'd probably rotate it 360 degrees by hand to make sure it's consistent and there's not a heavy rust line anywhere on the flywheel from having a bunch of water in the bilge for a long time while it was "stored" by the previous owner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:14am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal..

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
so the flywheel never got painted.

John,
I think Ken doesn't know that unpainted steel rusts.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:34am
John,
I mentioned the damper plate. Here's the best price at ebasic power


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:42am
John,
When you go for engine paint, do get the engine primer. The primer makes a big difference in how the finish coat comes out.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 8:50am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal..

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
so the flywheel never got painted.

John,
I think Ken doesn't know that unpainted steel rusts.


I sorta thought that Pete and I sorta think that you don't know what John's flywheel is made of either

Unless you want to tell us all that cast iron and steel are the same thing. They're not a lot different, but they both rust.

You could also mention the 20 dollar cheaper version of the damper plate (ALTDA-106) that takes some trimming. You know, it's the one you used. Then you could tell him how you trimmed yours and a bunch of other people have done the same.

Here's a link about it in case you forgot

link
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:46pm
Update:
I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper.
See pics-

Under left header


The damper and tranny



Bottom of distributor(I hope I can clean and paint, if the above is not catastrophic)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 7:49pm
John,
Yes, there is a $20 cheaper version of the damper. I linked the already trimmed version after thinking it may be easier for you feeling you may not be equipped for it. Sorry if I assumed wrong.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 8:20pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
Yes, there is a $20 cheaper version of the damper. I linked the already trimmed version after thinking it may be easier for you feeling you may not be equipped for it. Sorry if I assumed wrong.


Never assume --- I ordered the pre-trimmed version.

But question 2 does it look like I need a head gasket. These have been replaced, has new heads/redone heads.
Just worrying about all that rust below head
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Update:
I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper.
See pics-

Under left header


The damper and tranny



Bottom of distributor(I hope I can clean and paint, if the above is not catastrophic)


JT

Here are a few thoughts

Picture 1....... only the previous owner knows if those rust streaks were there before he replaced the heads and he just didn't clean or paint anything.

Picture 2....... on the damper there's that ugly rust line I mentioned earlier meaning the water level was high enough to have your front seal on the transmission underwater for quite a period of time (and maybe the rear main seal on the engine too) Also a number of the damper springs were underwater for quite a while too, but you're already replacing the damper anyways.

Picture 3..........That distributor has at least a couple of problems

First, it's just plain ugly

Second, that big gaping rectangular hole in the body is where a vacuum advance mechanism once lived meaning it's an automotive unit that isn't spark protected.

Back to picture 2, the cement blocks look to be in pretty good shape   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

[QUOTE=jterr] Update:
I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper.

JT

Here are a few thoughts

Picture 1....... only the previous owner knows if those rust streaks were there before he replaced the heads and he just didn't clean or paint anything.

Picture 2....... on the damper there's that ugly rust line I mentioned earlier meaning the water level was high enough to have your front seal on the transmission underwater for quite a period of time (and maybe the rear main seal on the engine too) Also a number of the damper springs were underwater for quite a while too, but you're already replacing the damper anyways.

Picture 3..........That distributor has at least a couple of problems

First, it's just plain ugly

Second, that big gaping rectangular hole in the body is where a vacuum advance mechanism once lived meaning it's an automotive unit that isn't spark protected.



Back to picture 2, the cement blocks look to be in pretty good shape   
4x4's to keep off of my dirt floor, but thanks anyways-LOL yea nice bricks

Would you suggest just replacing the gasketPic 2-What should I do here[, with the seals ; malready orderes the damper/COLOR>Pic 3 I suppose I need to get another Distributor????
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:33pm
Would this distributor work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Prestolite-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-Prestolite-7020S-NEW/331680410097?epid=1622285754&hash=item4d39b169f1:g:G1MAAOSwl9BWHH1m
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rosconole Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-10-2019 at 10:43pm
You might find some one with a bead blast cabinet and see if you can save distributor, but its gonna take some time, its not rusted yet but its on its way. Looks like you have some other parts that need it as well. Ford blue or silver NOT a chevy color please.
1989 ski nautique ,1991 barefoot nautique, 1993 Mustang Cobra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 6:42am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Would this distributor work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Prestolite-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-Prestolite-7020S-NEW/331680410097?epid=1622285754&hash=item4d39b169f1:g:G1MAAOSwl9BWHH1m


That would work with the right gear it's the Prestolite screwdown cap distributor that was used starting in 87 or so.

It comes without a cap or rotor, you can find them at SkiDim or you can go on EBAY and punch in these numbers for the screwdown cap and rotor

PCM RA108003 cap
PCM R103004     rotor

or

OMC 984401 cap
OMC 982880 rotor

A little shopping will save you some money

You'd need a Reverse Rotation gear since the one in the EBAY listing is for normal rotation.

The gear on your present distributor must be a RR gear that the guy pirated from the original Prestolite. The present one looks like an Autolite/Motorcraft distributor that has the same shaft size of .530 inches.

Before doing anything I'd pull the distributor and post a picture of the gear
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 7:02am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

[QUOTE=jterr] Update:
I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper.

JT

Here are a few thoughts

Picture 1....... only the previous owner knows if those rust streaks were there before he replaced the heads and he just didn't clean or paint anything.

Picture 2....... on the damper there's that ugly rust line I mentioned earlier meaning the water level was high enough to have your front seal on the transmission underwater for quite a period of time (and maybe the rear main seal on the engine too) Also a number of the damper springs were underwater for quite a while too, but you're already replacing the damper anyways.

Picture 3..........That distributor has at least a couple of problems

First, it's just plain ugly

Second, that big gaping rectangular hole in the body is where a vacuum advance mechanism once lived meaning it's an automotive unit that isn't spark protected.



Back to picture 2, the cement blocks look to be in pretty good shape   
4x4's to keep off of my dirt floor, but thanks anyways-LOL yea nice bricks

Would you suggest just replacing the gasketPic 2-What should I do here[, with the seals ; malready orderes the damper/COLOR>Pic 3 I suppose I need to get another Distributor????


Well, I suppose the 100% foolproof method would be to replace both of the head gaskets and both the front and rear transmission seals and the rear main seal or rebuild everything.

If there was no water in the engine oil or the transmission, the seals didn't leak so depending on how deep you want to go into things and how much you're planning on spending that would be something for you to decide.

See the separate post on the distributor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 10:02am
Well I checked the casting # and the engine is a 94 not a 83 as I thought.
Good or bad -don't know


Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 4:00pm
Here is Distributor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:12pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Here is Distributor


Well, the good news is the RR distributor gear should fit the EBAY distributor you linked. It may need to have a new hole drilled to have the gear at the right height on the shaft...... or it may be OK.

I'd make sure you can get it off with no damage before getting the other distributor

There's info about the height measurement etc. or you could ask here if you decide to go that route.

A 94 block will have a 1 piece rear main seal compared to the 2 piece you have now

It may or may not have brass freeze/casting/core/expansion plugs depending on where it came from.

I suppose you don't really know what you have inside that engine.

I don't remember, did this engine run when you got it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Here is Distributor


Well, the good news is the RR distributor gear should fit the EBAY distributor you linked. It may need to have a new hole drilled to have the gear at the right height on the shaft...... or it may be OK.

I'd make sure you can get it off with no damage before getting the other distributor

There's info about the height measurement etc. or you could ask here if you decide to go that route.

A 94 block will have a 1 piece rear main seal compared to the 2 piece you have now

It may or may not have brass freeze/casting/core/expansion plugs depending on where it came from.

I suppose you don't really know what you have inside that engine.

I don't remember, did this engine run when you got it?



Yes I got it running then decided to pull and do boat

I got this-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:


I got this-


From here it looks like a clipdown Prestolite with the right gear already on it.

That would have been the original 83 distributor.

You'd make Pete so proud, an original distributor complete with a set of points

Whatever you do, don't throw that RR gear on the ugly distributor away. They're scarce and getting scarcer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:45pm
Roger That,
I'm thinking of putting the upgraded ignition in it.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-11-2019 at 8:49pm
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Roger That,
I'm thinking of putting the upgraded ignition in it.....


That's OK, Pete has an electronic module in his
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2019 at 11:53am
Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts so I can paint. I've been taking parts off but then I got a hole to cover....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2019 at 11:59am
Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts

Don’t clean with water.

Acetone on a clean rag.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2019 at 12:16pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by jterr jterr wrote:

Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts

Don’t clean with water.

Acetone on a clean rag.

John,
I suggest a solvent like Toluene. It has great solvency and won't evaporate quickly like Acetone will.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2019 at 4:01pm
I guess I will use a wire brush on drill first to get in all the crevis'; it is pretty dirty
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2019 at 5:39pm
Update:
Started painting engine. Still got to remove Valve covers,Oil pan and Distributor will be a new one----
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jterr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2019 at 2:10pm
Can this be explained, as I have never had it happen before.

I took the valve covers and oil pan off to paint and decided to go ahead and remove oil filter...It had no oil in it

Anyone else had this or do I have another problem
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-15-2019 at 7:41pm
JT

I say it's no problem.

Between taking it out of the boat with a tractor and setting it on wooden blocks and then getting it onto an engine stand, it probably got tipped enough to empty out the filter somewhere along the way

Also I don't know what you did to get the pan off, maybe drain the oil and roll it over on the stand to do it the easy way, but that would empty the filter out too if there was anything left in it.at that time

It doesn't have to tilt much to the right side to empty the filter. (at least the part you can see)

I have one on an engine stand that came out of a running truck and got jostled around some getting it out and onto the stand and that filter was empty when I checked it.

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