Winterzing Question

Thanks JQ and Keno! Going to get some straight Propylene Glycol “pink stuff” w/inhibitors.

I Bought some CAMCO ARTIC BAN -50 (pink stuff) to pour into my 87 351W. The label says it contains ETHYL ALCOHOL 64-17-5 as well as GLYCOL AND DENATURANTS. The label also says NOT to use it in a automotive radiator or a boat engine?? Is this RV/MARINE antifreeze a suitable replacement for automotive antifreeze or do I need to get some different “pink stuff”? My plan is to pour it full strength (after draining of course) as described in the old PCM Engine Owners Manual, paragraph k, pg.31.
Thanks

Crmaverick wrote: If someone is doing the suck up method and the motor is cold does the thermostat need to be removed?

The popular answer is to take it out, but if the engine is drained first so the water is out, it will fill up when you start it, with some water filling the engine and some going through the exhaust manifolds

Most all those people who pump 5 gallons through their engine have small blocks that hold less coolant than a 454, so if you're thinking of sucking up the pink stuff, I thin I'd go with 7 gallons or so

As far as the thermostat..............."If in doubt, take it out"

5 gal of coolant to motor until coming out of thermostat housing. Fogged carb but I hope I got enough in. Didn't realize how fast the motor pumped in 5 gal. Water pump out as well. Couldn't believe how foul that thermostat area was inside. Lots of rust! The only question I have is the oil; cooler/trans cooler unit. The hose on the down side was frozen so I did not undo. There was a small fitting at the bottom which I took out - no fluids came out. I ordered a special tool used to extract hoses. Thanks again and have a great winter. Can't wait to get that boat back in the water.

8122pbrainard wrote: KENO wrote: So you only use and quote parts of the manual that you feel like Ken, Please note I refferenced a method and not a material.

Like I said before, I'll note that you only use and quote parts of the manual that you feel like,otherwise you wouldn't have been giving Steve crap with the dead fish picture and picking on his suck up method.

SteveZ wrote: OK, Going to Walmart and exchanging the Antifreeze with RV freeze.

If you're a little nervous about the RV antifreeze, look for minus 75 degree stuff for a little more protection.

And yes, your suck up method described will work

I just use the green stuff- it flushes out ok in about a quarter mile



It only seems to be a problem if a bunch of you go out

Ken and Pete, first of all many thanks for your recommendations. If I go with the auto antifreeze route I would flush all out and dispose before placing in the water. Right now my boat has been drained without having fogged the motor. I could either add water through the pump, fog,. empty all the water ports again and fill antifreeze via the thermostat as you both recommended..

Or add the antifreeze mix through the pump (since the engine has been already drained) with the thermostat removed and fog when full of antifreeze mix. Both ways should work. I will take of off the pump for the winter nap and that should be it. Thanks again to both of you!

KENO wrote: 8122pbrainard wrote: The newer PCM manual in our reference section pictures drain and pour Do you pour in what the manual tells you to Pete? Which manual are you looking at specifically?

NO, I DO NOT USE "Prestone" or "Zerox". per the manual. Do you?

Last winter, early spring a friend of mine found a deal at Tractor Supply on RV AF. We bought 4 cases (48 gal) for $1 a gallon. Should be set for a while.
I prefer the drain, suck up, drain method myself. Not a big fan of StaBil so I run the carb dry after siphoning the tank empty. Fog carb as it is dying. That is MY method, right or wrong. I'm sure this method will be questioned.

SteveZ wrote: Is it really important to remove the plugs and spray oil then turn over? If I get the T stat hose off and with most of the water out, isn't it not safe to run and fog and pour considering the engine would overheat? And where do I add antifreeze to the manifold? I can see some members rolling their eyes over my comments but I want to get this right and this site had the most info on correct crafts and 318's. I was also considering taking off the thermostat to ensure proper distribution.

What Pete is saying pretty much is like this

As a starting point the boat is in the water you've put your favorite brand of stabilizer in the gas tank, driven it around some to get the stabilized fuel into the carburetor and you're gonna put it on the trailer and winterize it

So you park it on the trailer, slowly put some fogging oil down the carburetor while it's running and when things get smoky out the exhaust you turn the boat off and the insides of the engine have a good coating of oil.

Now you can take the boat home and drain the water from the engine, the exhaust manifolds and the transmission cooler.

Put back in whatever plugs you pulled and hook up any hoses that you disconnected.

Now you can take off the thermostat cover and remove the thermostat and pour in your choice of antifreeze, whether it be automotive or RV antifreeze or boiler antifreeze

Some people will fill it to the top of the thermostat opening, some add a gallon or 2 to mix with any residual water that might be there.

And some will now be done and others might drain everything out again and leave the engine drained for the winter and any residual liquid that might be left in the system will be mixed with antifreeze and not do any damage

Now you have an engine that's fogged with oil, drained of water and has some antifreeze in it unless you drain it back out again as mentioned above.

Now the really important part for some people is to remove the raw water pump, take the impeller(s) out, put everything in a plastic bag and put it under your pillow for the winter where it will be nice and warm and cozy. I think Pete does this

I think that's kinda silly myself to have that lump under the pillow, so I put it in the nightstand next to the bed.

Like I said there are a million variations on winterizing, this is a fairly generalized version of one way that works up north and everybody will have something they do a little differently.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you drain the water out of the engine, manifolds and transmission cooler, it's hard to go wrong after that with whatever your choice is

Depending on area of the country, some people will drop the hose into a 5 gallon bucket of RV antifreeze and suck it through the engine without draining first. For some it works and for some it doesn't. You being in Massachusetts probably wouldn't want to take that chance

Get the water out first and then do that and you shouldn't have any problems

Minus 50 RV antifreeze will freeze at around 10 to 15 degrees above zero, but it doesn't expand enough to break pipes, engines etc till minus 50 as long as it's not diluted.

Diluting it can raise that burst temperature pretty dramatically.

If I fogged it through the carburetor I wouldn't worry too much about pulling the spark plugs and squirting some oil in each cylinder.

I have to go and check on my impeller and pump now   

Does anyone know of a marine engine manufacturer whos layup instructions utilize the AF suck up/pump through method? Most of the old ones like Interceptor, Chrysler, OMC, Gray, Chris, PCM, Waukesha, were drain only. I for years used the drain only and many still do. I laid up a Chris yesterday and only drained but with most of the old Hercules blocks hard piping prevents pouring .I could have pumped but why when draining has worked for over 70 years. The newer PCM manual in our reference section pictures drain and pour which I use when possible.

Ken you left out the towing it south for the winter.......

Steve,
What's the 70/30? Are you diluting? Typical non toxic RV antifreeze shouldn't be diluted. Sucking!!!!! AF is way more complicated than needed. Pour the AF in at the T stat hose. Fog, drain and pour. I've done a few 318's in 50 years!


So you can confirm all the points that need draining, here's a link to the Chrysler manual in the refference section.

Yup Pete....dems are da ones. I copied the wrong pix.