Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

What is silfo? That's a new one for me.

I do think it will be hard to get enough water out to be confident you don't have a relatively full pipe just before the transom 45 and burst it. How about adding a drain to the lower front 45 below the manifolds. You could open them, easy to get at from under the doghouse, and I'm thinking if you drop your trailer tongue right onto the ground it would have enough forward tilt to drain the pipes.

Those 45's are going to create a winterizing problem. Unless you stand the hull up on end, you will trap lots of water. The pipe should go straight back to the rubber couplings on the transom thru hulls.

Why the Silfos?

Everything looks good except those 45's at the transom,get rid of them.....

I'll guess Starboard near the rear with a plastic nipple is the bilge pump and the metal one is the vent.

Even back then the vents had a small spark arrestor screen in them and with a mirror you should be able to verify that it's there.

You could check a few pictures on the site to verify this

PS Use a milk crate instead of a cardboard box

Really looks like your making progress weekly
And getting close maybe
Are you planning a launch this spring/summer

^^^That’s a good option^^^. If I need to bend the tube, that would work. Here’s some more details... I’m working on a bunch of different things all at the same time, striving towards wiring and an eventual engine start. I felt the fuel system needed to be upsized, or at a minimum, at least standardized to 1 continuous size. 3/8” or AN-6 is what I determined was appropriate. The new fuel pump itself has a 3/8” nipple for the suction side and a 5/16” inverted female flare for the pressure side. I’ve seen what happens when the diaphragm fails, so I’m looking into routing a line up to the carb. I’ve replaced / converted all the fittings over to AN-6. I’m losing more originality by converting, but this boat has been messed with so much now, there’s no turning back. I still feel I’m giving it a second chance. I do have the original brass valve and the braided brass flex hose if someone is doing a restoration.

The jury is still out on the distributor, but in the meantime, some “filler” while we wait for the return of normalcy...
I purchased this dipstick, with adjustable 1/4” threads months ago. Turns out, my block threads are 1/8”. So, I ordered up a 1/8” x 6” long brass nipple. The stick fits in it beautifully. I will trim and mark the stick after the break-in and refill.

Chucky wrote: And now, for something completely different (remember that show?).... I completely messed up on my Mallory cap to rotor tip measurement. Oops! Sorry about that. So...am I allowed to run the Mallory YL or??? (Nervously biting fingernails waiting for response).

11 minutes .........quit biting

Does it look like this?

   

Where did I dig that picture up? That's your workbench isn't it.

It (YL519B) was the original equipment Marine distributor on a Dearborn 289 back then.

I guess that means the answer must be yes

And the rotor according to what I have is a Mallory 319 or NAPA 18-5411

Some places also list the 318 as a fit

Turns out it’s 5’ long. Send me a private message. I’ll sell it at 50% off the lowest advertised price you can find. You pay shipping + there’s a $10 COVID upcharge.

I haven’t been around here long, but long enough to understand the “safety first” moto and I appreciate that. There’s no controversy in terms of my point of view on the points vs. electronic issue. My main reason for favoring electronic ignitions is EASE OF STARTING. I know for a fact it makes a difference. I personally have installed Pertronix, Crane XRI, and a few GM HEI’s all in place of a well maintained, good running points system. My first car ran the famous Bosch 009 in 1989. I’m not a stranger to points. They have their place. I fully understand shunts, resistance leads, and Ohms law. I’m not an engineer, but I play one on the internet. I also know a match book cover (remember those?) is about .032” thick.

I most certainly don’t want this thread, which is primarily for documentation and also, hopefully, entertainment to be ‘side tracked’ by a long, drawn out spewing of opinions. Having said that, I truly do take all suggestions seriously. Seriously, I do.

Yeah, you don't want those mufflers. My rear seat passengers can't hear anything at speed, but it we want to cruise quietly we take the pontoon. I've been told that I have the best sounding boat on the lake :)

Chucky wrote: 2.) it’s a points distributor, which is outperformed by an electronic version.

To go by that reasoning your hull dates back 57 years. It is with out a doubt outperformed by a electronically designed version

Your PO muffler repair is what Pete refers to a backyard hack job. There should be no metal in on or around them.

I was pretty excited when the PO handed over this tub of hoses upon my purchase. Yeah...NONE of these fit or are going to be used. There’s also a 6’ chunk of 3” exhaust hose up in my attic...yep, it fits NOTHING on this boat. I’m starting to see a pattern.

Chucky wrote: Yes, the carb is mounted backwards on purpose. At this point, I’m experimenting / testing to see what works best. The project came with a (non-marine) Holley carb. No final decisions / purchases will be made until after test runs.

I like it

I guess you can only put the distributor in one way.

Speaking of that, what came with it for a distributor?

My psychic powers are saying it's a Mallory crab cap.

Yes, the carb is mounted backwards on purpose. At this point, I’m experimenting / testing to see what works best. The project came with a (non-marine) Holley carb. No final decisions / purchases will be made until after test runs.

I had my daughter label my switch panel, as her penmanship is outstanding. Eventually, I will clear coat it. One step at a time.

Chucky - my center rear floorboard is notched similar to Gary’s custom setup. My exhaust outlets are also 1” above the floorboard. I don’t have mufflers, just the factory rubber exhaust piping. With the seat in place you can’t come close to seeing the notches.