Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild |
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zwoobah
Senior Member Joined: September-13-2018 Location: Providence RI Status: Offline Points: 308 |
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Yeah, you don't want those mufflers. My rear seat passengers can't hear anything at speed, but it we want to cruise quietly we take the pontoon. I've been told that I have the best sounding boat on the lake :)
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1968 Mustang 16 - 351W powered
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fanofccfan
Platinum Member Joined: December-13-2009 Location: North Bend NE Status: Offline Points: 1727 |
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Now...about that 6 feet of 3 inch exhaust hose you dont need!?!
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2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Turns out it’s 5’ long. Send me a private message. I’ll sell it at 50% off the lowest advertised price you can find. You pay shipping + there’s a $10 COVID upcharge.
I haven’t been around here long, but long enough to understand the “safety first” moto and I appreciate that. There’s no controversy in terms of my point of view on the points vs. electronic issue. My main reason for favoring electronic ignitions is EASE OF STARTING. I know for a fact it makes a difference. I personally have installed Pertronix, Crane XRI, and a few GM HEI’s all in place of a well maintained, good running points system. My first car ran the famous Bosch 009 in 1989. I’m not a stranger to points. They have their place. I fully understand shunts, resistance leads, and Ohms law. I’m not an engineer, but I play one on the internet. I also know a match book cover (remember those?) is about .032” thick. I most certainly don’t want this thread, which is primarily for documentation and also, hopefully, entertainment to be ‘side tracked’ by a long, drawn out spewing of opinions. Having said that, I truly do take all suggestions seriously. Seriously, I do. |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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And now, for something completely different (remember that show?)....
I completely messed up on my Mallory cap to rotor tip measurement. Oops! Sorry about that. So...am I allowed to run the Mallory YL or??? (Nervously biting fingernails waiting for response). |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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11 minutes .........quit biting Does it look like this? Where did I dig that picture up? That's your workbench isn't it. It (YL519B) was the original equipment Marine distributor on a Dearborn 289 back then. I guess that means the answer must be yes And the rotor according to what I have is a Mallory 319 or NAPA 18-5411 Some places also list the 318 as a fit |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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QUOTE=Chucky] My first car ran the famous Bosch 009 in 1989. [/QUOTE]
Guess I'm officially an old fart my 1st car had a 010 in '73,pretty sure I have a YL for it kicking around too.
No YL's allowed |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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The jury is still out on the distributor, but in the meantime, some “filler” while we wait for the return of normalcy...
I purchased this dipstick, with adjustable 1/4” threads months ago. Turns out, my block threads are 1/8”. So, I ordered up a 1/8” x 6” long brass nipple. The stick fits in it beautifully. I will trim and mark the stick after the break-in and refill. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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If you still what an adjustable, get a brass reducing coupling.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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^^^That’s a good option^^^. If I need to bend the tube, that would work. Here’s some more details... I’m working on a bunch of different things all at the same time, striving towards wiring and an eventual engine start. I felt the fuel system needed to be upsized, or at a minimum, at least standardized to 1 continuous size. 3/8” or AN-6 is what I determined was appropriate. The new fuel pump itself has a 3/8” nipple for the suction side and a 5/16” inverted female flare for the pressure side. I’ve seen what happens when the diaphragm fails, so I’m looking into routing a line up to the carb. I’ve replaced / converted all the fittings over to AN-6. I’m losing more originality by converting, but this boat has been messed with so much now, there’s no turning back. I still feel I’m giving it a second chance. I do have the original brass valve and the braided brass flex hose if someone is doing a restoration.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Progress on the exhaust system. I turned to the “tuner” crowd for some help with couplings. These silicone adapters are available in nearly every size you can imagine. Although no thicker than my rubber elbows, they have 3 layers of “mesh” and are rated to 350 degrees. They are about $13 each at Summit Racing. I will turn the label down, so you can’t see it.
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67 ski nat
Platinum Member Joined: July-19-2018 Location: Santa rosa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Really looks like your making progress weekly
And getting close maybe Are you planning a launch this spring/summer |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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I hope I can get it fired up around June??? I might be sitting on a cardboard box for the first test drive. A question I need help with is...there’s 2 “vents” or “openings” in the back of the boat. One is on the starboard side, near the rear. It is a plastic nipple (on the inside). The other is a metal type fitting, on the very back of the boat. I’m assuming one is the gas tank vent and the other is the bilge connection point. But, I’m not sure which one is which? Any ideas? I would have thought the side one was the bilge, but the gas tank vent (coming off the tank itself) is located very near it, thus the slight confusion on my part. Thanks gents!
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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I'll guess Starboard near the rear with a plastic nipple is the bilge pump and the metal one is the vent.
Even back then the vents had a small spark arrestor screen in them and with a mirror you should be able to verify that it's there. You could check a few pictures on the site to verify this PS Use a milk crate instead of a cardboard box |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Brazed the new exhaust today. It cleaned up pretty good afterwards and it’s all below the floor. There’s a 1/4” gap between both ends of the copper and engine / transom connections to allow a little “wiggle”.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Everything looks good except those 45's at the transom,get rid of them.....
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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What would you suggest? I’m not sure how one goes from a point below the floor to a point above the floor without going “uphill”. Even if I notch the floor, and run straight from the lower 90 to the transom, I’m still going uphill.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Those 45's are going to create a winterizing problem. Unless you stand the hull up on end, you will trap lots of water. The pipe should go straight back to the rubber couplings on the transom thru hulls.
Why the Silfos? |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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I silfos’d them just because I felt like it. I can eliminate the 45’s and cut the floor. But, if winterizing is the only concern, I’m not sure that’s such a big deal. I could easily add a low point drain, or stuff a shop vac connected to a long hose way up in there. Have you seen my hose collection?
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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What is silfo? That's a new one for me.
I do think it will be hard to get enough water out to be confident you don't have a relatively full pipe just before the transom 45 and burst it. How about adding a drain to the lower front 45 below the manifolds. You could open them, easy to get at from under the doghouse, and I'm thinking if you drop your trailer tongue right onto the ground it would have enough forward tilt to drain the pipes. |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Silfos brazing alloy "Sil-Fos 15 is the preferred alloy for general copper-copper brazing;" |
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Just FYI / regardless of the exhaust system, I have to lower the tongue of the trailer during the winterization process due to the block drain on the starboard side being located at the front of the block (the high side). The plan is to place my floor jack under the tongue and drop it as low as it will go. I’m quite sure I could slip a garden hose (hooked up to my shop vac) into the exhaust and get all the way up to the low elbow at that time.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Moving forward. Someone else added the swim platform in the past. There was fiberglass damage on the port side bracket, which was repaired before I purchased the boat. However, they never painted the repair. Luckily, I painted a car this same color years ago. I added the transom mount tow hook, just to have options in the future. I need to sort this all out before I can mount the gas tank.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Keno was “correct” on the screen inside the metal fitting on the transom (gas tank vent). I think these 1/4” thick aluminum “washers” will prevent future damage from people climbing on the swim platform.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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I mounted the trans cooler today. Lots of real valves installed to make winterizing, oil changes, and running in the driveway easy peasy. The boat boat came with a new “fake a lake” but I won’t be using it.
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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The crab cap Mallory is unofficially for sale.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Chuck,
Are you aware that you can post more than one picture in a single post? It doesn't seem like you do. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Trying to get the count up
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Chucky
Senior Member Joined: September-24-2019 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Like this? (Pulled from the archives). Let me also add, I’m really trying to just get this boat into the water. Things may be changed / redone next winter. I would love to spend years restoring and properly refinishing this project, but I have soooo many other obligations (wife, kids, work, eating, sleeping, etc.) that...I’m just doing the best I can. I do agree though that I do not want a 50+ page thread restoring another mustang. (wink wink / sorry John, you’re doing a great job)
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4234 |
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GOOD! I know it's silly, but I don't like the way they look. Nice progress! |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10688 |
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Pete You should look at Chucky's post 2 days ago with the Silfos that you commented about and count the pictures he had in that post It seems like he's been aware |
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