Chucky’s 1966 Mustang rebuild

67 ski nat wrote: Yep 10-17 is in the manual I was looking at online, 71c on tag.

Check out the manual in the link

link

It's from a little known secret internet spot called the CCF reference section

It'll tell you that your 71C has 5 inner clutch plates and 4 outer clutch plates for Forward and it has 1 reverse pressure plate and 1 reverse clutch plate. The reverse clutch plate on some is fiber and on some it's metallic.

The fiber break easier and reverse no longer works when that happens

The ALTO kit Chucky bought has a metallic plate (that's a good thing)

Too clean, that’s funny. I recently completely “finished” the garage (tape, mud, prime, paint). Last winter, I was knee-deep in the Belair transmission. I had a slight problem with 3rd gear. Currently, I’m waiting for a couple of parts to arrive so I can button up the Velvet drive.

I have the 70C trans, so your results may vary. I replaced the fiber reverse clutch with 2 bronze’s (separated by 1 steel). The forward clutch pack and all gaskets and seals are now new. It really wasn’t very difficult to “rebuild”. I never needed a press (maybe you do with a 71C?). But, I can’t stress enough the importance of a proper snap ring pliers.

Curious to amount of time involved for trans rebuild ?

Instead of soaking my clutches in ATF, I just used a small paint brush and brushed on a nice coating of trans fluid to all sides of the bronze clutches. I cleaned the steels with brake parts cleaner / paper towels before brushing them with trans fluid too. They will be just fine and they will get soaked later when I fill and further prep the transmission.

Thanks for your updates. Feeling better bout tackling mine

!!!YES!!! You will NOT get that one lock ring off (without destroying it) without pliers similar to what KENO shows above. I should have been more clear on that. On a different note...Could someone please post a picture, or describe really well about where and or how this part is mounted? I know it’s part of the steering system. I know it goes with the clamping block. But, I don’t know what it bolts to??? Remember, I didn’t take this boat apart. Thanks!

Not the same era hull but the ball is the attachment for the steering cable torque tube at the aft end.

This is the same set up as you have.

This project came with these two types of 3/16 shaft packing material - which one should I use on the prop shaft stuffing box? And how about the rudder packing?

Looks like the clamp block could move aft a bit from where it’s marked, judging by Bruce’s maxed out adjustment. That was a common issue on the 71+ 16’ hull.

Chucky wrote: One part that came with this project is this bearing. THIS MIGHT NOT EVEN BE FOR THIS BOAT??? Anybody know if it is? I believe the one on the left is used and on the right is the new replacement. I googled the p/n (6202RS-10) but still am not sure of it’s application. Any help appreciated!

Chucky

I checked with this guy and he says it fits a lot of Sherwood raw water pumps

Chucky wrote: I tightened the assembly very tight to “smash” the packing material, and then loosened it up a bit.

You may have a problem so, when you get the boat in the water, make sure the prop shaft gland doesn't run hot. I have NEVER found that packing, once compressed with loosen up. The worst would be having to do a re pack. On the rudder, it doesn't matter since it's not constantly rotating and you what it tight.

Chucky wrote: Thanks gents. After more measuring, I went ahead and ordered some 1/4” packing material.

Hopefully you have enough 3/16 still around "just in case"

Chucky, using the same logic you did I installed my new shaft packing and tightened it on install to SEAT it and then backed off for the water test. Bad idea. When I went on the water to do the final adjustments on the packing shaft boat running on the water it would not leak at all, zero drips of water to lubricate my prop shaft it got hot right away even though I had the packing nut totally loose. Once packed it pretty much stays packed.
I had extra packing with me so I dug out the just installed packing and re did the install.
This time installed loose only brought the nut down with my hand and did not tighten it,   Now still on the lake we ran the boat while watching the packing nut, it stayed cool and was dripping a lot.   I slowly tightened the nut. Each time I tightened a little we ran the boat at least a mile at 35 mph to see if it heated up and then when shut off checked for any dripping.   A slow drip at speed kept the nut cool. If you tighten any more the water lubrication shuts off and the nut starts heating up, as it heats up it grows and shuts off even more water so it gets even hotter.   
We played on the water for about an hour till I was comfortable that the nut stayed cool while driving but did not drip while parked. That was 5 years ago, I have not adjusted it since but I think it is time to check it again this year.
If there is a better way to properly set the packing nut I would love to know it. This method works but at least in my case it took some trial and error to get it right.
If memory serves correctly you are looking for 6-10 drips per minute while in gear motoring on the water. When adjusted to this amount your nut running may get a little warm but never hot while running, and parked you have no leak at all.