Best Winterization Practices?

Hi Mike. I'm just a newbie on the forum... but my understanding is that it's better to keep the fuel tank full and add stabil. Not sure why but I believe that is the consensus. Maybe it helps avoid corrosion the the system.

As far as anti-freeze goes... you can connect a short length of hose at your raw-water intake... stick the other end in a 5-gal bucket of antifreeze and suck it up that way. I believe you need to have the engine up to temp "so the stat is open" before you do that.

Also... be sure to use some fogging oil thru the carb.

Wash, wax, and protect the exterior and interior. Be aware of moisture issues when you cover for the lay up.

HTH... and remember I'm just learning this stuff. I'm sure others will let you know if my advice is no good.

Cheers... we're heading out for a late season session this afternoon. Just got the drysuit out of storage this morning. Getting pretty chilly here in mid-michigan.

Joe

search on winterize and you'll find lots of advice....

also, if you can find desacant pebbles for air compressors, put a coffee can full (in the can)put on a piece of card board so you wont get a rustline on your carpet, use in the boat to soak up condensation, it eliminates mold on the interior.
I always fill my trans to the very top with oil to eliminate condensation build up and a rust line in the trans, simply drain it in the spring and re fill with fresh

its going to be hard to run the carb out of gas since you have to fog the engine and antifreeze it, you better find some 100 below antifreeze, i use quick silver with corrossion additives, ask your marine supply store or you can use rv antifreeze. i guess when your all done use a stabilizer and then pump the carb dry with the shiftlever all the gas will go down the intake while your pumping the carb throw in some fogger or pull the plugs and spray it in . if your using automotive antifreeze read the directions on the mix for the best results for your temp range. alot of service manuals tell you to just drain the engine and your done. the antifreeze is really there for corrossion protection so be sure you use antifreeze with these additives or it is pointless of putting it in.

what came first the chicken or the egg, i think you'll have to pull the plugs and squirt it in when your all done

eric lavine wrote: what came first the chicken or the egg, i think you'll have to pull the plugs and squirt it in when your all done

Why wouldnt he be able to fog the motor (without pulling the plugs) and fill the block with antifreeze?

tr, your making this difficult, it is a dilema. i guess it depends on what method you use putting the antifreeze in the engine. its easy on merc stuff, i run the drive in a horse feeding tank filled with antifreeze then spray in the fogger until it kills the engine.with the inboards its tuff

david, beautifully put, short and sweet

David F. has got it right, in my opinion. Don't skip fogging and just spray in the spark plug holes, its not the same, be sure to fog the engine while running.

I really believe in using stabilizer whether you run it dry or not, or leave the tank full or not. There will be some gas left somewhere in the system that you want to keep fresh, and it costs maybe 50 cents to stabilize a tank of fuel so why not just do it.

Lots of people don't bother to remove the pump impeller, that's a mistake, pull the impeller unless you plan to replace it every year or two.

Just my 2 cents.

Guys-

Ome more thing... Do I need to drain the water cooled area of the transmision and add antifreeze? I have not seen any note of it in any of the readings.

Thanks
NM

Oh yes, the sea strainer. Do not forget to empty the water from the strainer bowl.

dan, is that you??? i didnt think you were tht fat......   eric

David....that is almost the exact same method i have come to use over the years!...I take off the thermostat housing, and pour the antifreeze directly into the engine and down the hoses to the manifolds. I replace the thermostat every two years or so, and always put antiseize on the housing bolts. Places around here are charging b/n 200 and 300 to winterize! That is almost the cost of a new prop every year!

ernest

Usually the knock sensors are placed in the block drain hole on one side or the other. However, not sure about the Merc. It is not necessary to remove the knock sensor to fog, but you should fog after you filled the tank with fuel stabilizer. This way, the stabilized fuel makes its way to the carb/injectors as you are warming the engine while fogging and opening up the t-stat. (with injected engines, the fuel gets to the injectors very quickly due to the return line and the excess fuel being pumped).

When engine warm and fogged, shut it down for good. Remove the block drains, U-pipe drain (if Merc has one) and exchanger drain (or remove bottom hose to exchanger), and exhaust manifold drains. Reinstall the block drains and fill the block with antifreeze via the RWP outlet hose turned up high.

Sorry for re-hashing and being long winded, but to answer your question directly, no harm in running (no load) with the knock sensor disconnected (might get a fault code posted if fuel injected). A sensor in the head might be the temperature switch or sensor.

Can't leave the knock sensor in if it doubles as a drain plug...well at least not while draining out the water.

T-stat will stay open long enough to give you time to fill the block up.

I am really not familiar with IO boats at all, so things will be a bit different.