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85 2001 LVL Stringer Project

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Big Pappa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 4:47pm
I have had the crud and had a trip for work so I have not worked on the boat all that much. Over the past few weeks I have made some progress though.

I have the engine out and on a stand I built.


I have the floor out to behind the battery box. The boards both in front and behind the battery box had rot in them. The one in front was just mush.


The foam under the box was completely soaked. Upon further inspection the hose coming from the drain on the box was broke so any water in the bilge was able to seep under the battery box and it did.


Once all the foam was out I could see the front of all the stringers and all 4 have rot from the engine forward. So they all have to go and new put in.


Here is the front of the boat once I cleaned out all the foam and vacuumed. Yes I am another one with OCD. Also notice that the fiberglass has dried out since the last pictures. All the foam was wet on the bottom 1/4" or so.


Here is the back after clean up.


Next on the agenda is pulling the rest of the floor under the bow. All the water I found under the Battery box has me spooked and I am going to pull it while I am here just for piece of mind. It will not be that much more work but will ease my mind knowing it was done right. Plus I wanted to change the vent hoses and maybe reconfigure things up there a little bit.

Other than that it is just cleaning up where the floor connected to the hull in the very front and in the very back. The boat was nice enough to separate the floor along the sides for me.

After that it is time to cut and replace the stringers. I am hoping they are in good enough shape I will be able to create some templates, we will see how that works out though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 5:08pm
Your only about a day behind me, I found the foam wet right up to the lifting eye in the front when I went the rest of the way. I am measuring and 3d modeling up the boat now so I can order parts and know where to put them once I start taking out stringers, if I come up with anything useful I will pass it along.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 7:42pm
Kris, I think OCD rox! I think many of us may be paddling that canoe...to go to such lengths to end up with what we want?!!?

I too found a broken fitting at my battery box. We may have found a weak link. It seemed like a brittle fitting and the foam around it was solid. If the boat moves as fiber does, maybe the smaller fittings need to be a little flexible? Yall set me straight if I'm off, but I'm thinking back to a mariah that flexed enough in rough water for the center window to fall through. This hull is much more soild than that, but it will still move some I think.

Joe, I'd be interested in your measuring strategy...especially since you've been here before!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 7:50pm
Seeing the original floor design, it kind of makes me want to dig into the '88 to redo some of the things. Not that I want to have to do this, but ready for the day it needs it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 7:56pm
4 foot adjustable drywall t square, 16 inch adjustable framing square, digital calipers, tape measure, 4 and 6 foot levels, clamps, etc its a PIA. But with the changes I want to make up front, and my desire to order material mostly precut it seems the thing to do. It would go quicker if I recruit a secretary...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 8:21pm
You're more high tech than I am. I've made a few 'adjustable' squares out of scrap wood from the shop...drives me nutz that this is not an exact science?!!? LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 8:57pm
Greg, Do you have a power hand planer? Goes real quick to scribe the new wood to the hull!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2008 at 11:46pm
Joe, That is cool what are you modeling it in?


BFN, The hose and fitting was hard and brittle but I think it may have been pliable at some point. I will just have to figure out a better system/ Components when I put it back in.

For those of you that do not know what we are talking about I will try and get a pic tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2008 at 2:18am
Originally posted by Big Pappa Big Pappa wrote:

BFN, The hose and fitting was hard and brittle but I think it may have been pliable at some point. I will just have to figure out a better system/ Components when I put it back in.

I'm thinking flexible pvc...we may get some other ideas from the pros.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-13-2008 at 12:42pm
I am modeling in Solidworks for the most part, although I have ProE at the shop and I like ProE better but I don't use it enough to justify the maintanence fees so its getting to be a pretty old version. This measuring is far from hitech and is probably overkill but I can't ever remember being pissed off that I took too many measurements before I pulled it apart. The digital caliper does save my back a little as I dont have to get down to eye level with the stringers as much. I did notice last night that although the boat was leveled to the floor it is not level to the stringers in the front, so I am going to have to adjust again.

My boat had both a cooler and a battery box, these were critical weak spots in two ways, one is the drains which both were in blocks of frozen soaked foam, the other and more critical in my situation is the joint between the boxes and the floor. First the gelcoated boxes were put in place, then the floor was put over the top, but getting fiberglass to stick onto of the gelcoat in a spot where the box cover is going to transfer your wieght to every time get in and out of the driver seat is just a bad idea. Thats where mine delaminated from the box and allowed water into the floorboards and rotted the front of the stringers from the top, the dozens of staples holding the floorboards into the stringers didnt help slow the rot any.

My better system for the drain is to not put any foam back under there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lancef Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 12:52am
As i posted in another topic, I am doing the same thing as you guys. I got to here tonight. What a blast this has been getting to here (:


A couple of questions...
1. What kind of wood are you going to use for stringers?
2. I know, I know, I have read all the old posts, but epoxy or poly resin?
3. Marine plywood glassed/resined on both sides for the floor?
4. Also do you know if there was a reason the outer little stringers have that 1" gap in them? (where its filled with foam)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 9:27am
Originally posted by lancef lancef wrote:

What a blast this has been getting to here (:

LOL It's a rite of passage!
Be careful with so many tools in the boat...I have 2 left feet and would look like a 3 stooges episode?!!?


Originally posted by lancef lancef wrote:

A couple of questions...
1. What kind of wood are you going to use for stringers?
2. I know, I know, I have read all the old posts, but epoxy or poly resin?
3. Marine plywood glassed/resined on both sides for the floor?
4. Also do you know if there was a reason the outer little stringers have that 1" gap in them? (where its filled with foam)


Have you had a chance to scroll through the pumpkin patch thread? Tons of good info!
1. Douglas Fir, and I used fir ply as well instead of marine grade(much cheaper). I'll give it a CPES bath before installation.

2. epoxy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 9:37am
Joe, Kris...what are you using for the air vent hose under the floor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 9:57am
Originally posted by lancef lancef wrote:


4. Also do you know if there was a reason the outer little stringers have that 1" gap in them? (where its filled with foam)


Greg answered your questions the way I would have but missed the reason for the epoxy. Strenght but primarilly because it isn't hygroscopic like polyester is.

As far as the 1" gap, you'll need to ask Billy Bob out in the carpenter shop at the CC factory! Really, I can't see the gaps you are reffering too. Probably no structural reason to be any closer.

Keep going and keep us informed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 12:44pm
I am going to be using epoxy resin and glass coated Douglas Fir. I am going to be very meticulous on waterproofing the wood because I do not want to do this again.

I am thinking of laying up some glass to use in front of the pylon so I am not putting wood back there. If you notice in my pictures this is where the rot in my boat was the worst and probably where it started.

I have not made the decision on the air tubing yet. I know I am going to be using something more rigid than what was there from the factory. I am also thinking of re routing them so I have more storage area under the bow of the boat for storage.

I have not had any updates here recently because we are about to put our house up for sale so I have been working on all the honey dos that come with that. I hope to get back to work on in in the next week or two. It is starting to warm up here as well so the fever is coming on so I have got to get back at it so I can get to the lake. :-)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 12:59pm
Kris I think the issue around the pylon is caused by the hole not being sealed with CPES, resin/glass, or anything other than carpet. So if you where to use wodd and maybe made the clearance hole a little oversized so that you could come back with some resin and glass and completely seal that area, then it would be good to go. Maybe a little over kill but in the area instead of using ply/resin layup to span the stringers use a small section of starboard glassed over then it cann't rot, wick or deteriorate. Just some food for thought.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:12pm
I also picked up another project to work on after I finish with the Nautique. It is a Hobie Cat 16 that was given to me. The hulls need a little work and it is missing the mast and Jib but other than that it is all there. It is a bargain when it is free.

This is my first sail boat, Anybody else sail on here? Anyway here it is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:37pm
[QUOTE=Big Pappa] It is a bargain when it is free.

QUOTE]

Not always true, sail boat parts add up to much more than the price of the whole. Retail on a new mast 1395, retail new jib white 260, color a hundred more. Single pulleys and cleats can be hundreds of dollars.

I routinely see good complete H16's for sale at 1200 dollars, occasionally 800 although most of those boats are neglected. Don't want to naysay because you may find a deal on some used parts learn a little as you rebuild and get a lot of fun out of that Hobie just know what your getting into.

I have a nacra


boat dr has a fleet of hobies I am sure there are a couple other closet sailers around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:39pm
Kris, yes there are a couple that do the BLOW BOATS.
We have our first regatta on the Gulf coast April 19.......H-18M
I have several;
2] Hobie 18
1] Hobie 17
1] Hobie 16
1] Hobie 14 Turbo
1] Wharram 26 Pahi

And enough parts to build several more,too many boats and not enough time to sail.
Kris where are you located ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:56pm
Joe, Yea the cost new is quite hight but I figure I would get some used stuff and get it all cleaned up and get out on the water. Then if it is something that I really enjoy I will sell it and get something newer. It is an 83 model and from what I can tell (remember I am very green) I have most all of the cables, cleats, pullys etc. It even has 3 trapeze wires with it, granted one of the handles are broken. The tramp is a little old but still holds me standing (230#) without any problems.

Boat Dr. I am in Birmingham, Al.

Here is a link to more pictures. I have not loaded any since I cleaned it up though. It is in rough shape but it still floats. Click Here for Pictures
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 1:58pm
sounds like a road trip to the Doc is in order.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 2:02pm
If you could take some pictures of the hull socket/pylon base with the pole in and out of the boat that would help many.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 2:05pm
Kris give me a call , I love to talk Hobies...
Shrouds and forstay are called "standing rigging" Sheets and other lines are called "running rigging"
At #230 that boat is a little small, but will be a good "starter boat" I have a jib"forsail" and a lot of misc. parts...............1-318-386-2825...Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 2:06pm
Here is another shot of it cleaned up. I was looking at the hulls yesterday and a good coat of wax and you can see your self in the gel. I am going to give it a good wet sand and buff to smooth things out once I finish the repairs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-04-2008 at 2:07pm
Where are you located Boat Dr?
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Location ; Monterey Louisiana 71354
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-07-2008 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

If you could take some pictures of the hull socket/pylon base with the pole in and out of the boat that would help many.


Once I get the Pylon out I will snap a few pics and post them up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 10:07am
Kris, I found some good hose at a local store. I've lived here for years and didn't know about this place. They also have wet exhaust hose but call it something different...looks the same anyway. For the air vents, I got what they call RFH (reinforced flexible hose?). It's stength/toughness is about halfway between dryer hose and the wet exhaust hose. It was a little expensive, but I'm sure I won't have to buy it again!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Pappa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Kris, I found some good hose at a local store. I've lived here for years and didn't know about this place. They also have wet exhaust hose but call it something different...looks the same anyway. For the air vents, I got what they call RFH (reinforced flexible hose?). It's stength/toughness is about halfway between dryer hose and the wet exhaust hose. It was a little expensive, but I'm sure I won't have to buy it again!


Awesome I will have to check into that. Thanks for the info!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-08-2008 at 1:31pm
Kris, I should add that I'm hoping to use PVC for the connections and so forth. The trouble may be that they are both ID measurements. I'm going to try rounding the ends of the pvc and see if it will work.
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