Please clarify - winterization

Thanks to all the posts here, I think I've learned quite a bit about winterizing my 89. However, as a first time owner I was hoping to get some clarification on several items:

I plan on going with the method of drawing antifreeze from a bucket to cycle through the engine.

1) It is preferable to drain the water first, rather than letting the antifreeze 'push' it out?

2) a$$uming the engine isn't warmed up, the thermostat needs to be removed before starting this process?

3) (sorry for my ignorance here) What is the flame arrestor and why do I need to remove this prior to starting this process?

Thanks in advance for any help.

at operating temp, drain engine first, open petcocks if nothing comes out poke a papeclip into them to remove any sediment, seen many cracks due to a blocked petcock, remove hose at pick up or sea strainer, start engine and pour a good biodegradable antifreeze w/rust inhibitor in hose, I use at least 2 gallons, turn off engine. remove plugs and squirt fogging oil into them. no need to remove thermostat. loosen petcock on side of block and make sure you see antifreeze

to me sucking in the anti freeze seems to waiste more than just pouring it into the block, I never leave any antifreeze in the exhaust manifolds and only worry about the block. I also leave the hoses to the rwp disconnected and drain the tranny cooler don't like the idea of leaving fluid in the hoses below the t-stat with the exception of the hoses going to the water pump. So anything from the t-stat housing to the pick-up are dry. If they are left full if a mouse or varment eats through a hose it can siphon the block or a leak can do the same thing.

This discussion is depressing (no offense bsu). It's not even Labor Day. I still sweat every morning on the way to the curb to get the paper!

antifreeze is a rubber preservative, so should not harm the impellar. Personally, I remove the RWP and the impellar and store each on the shelf. I drain the block and exhaust manifolds of water. Remove the U-pipe drain plug, remove the heat exchange drain plug and leave both out. I then elevate the RWP outlet hose above the thermostate and pour in straight RV/Marine antifreeze (2 gallons). Done.

Forgot to mention that this is all done after letting the engine warm up for about 10 minutes and just prior to shutting off, I spray fogging oil in throat of TB. Basically, this is pretty much book proceedure, I think.

I never use antifreeze...as long as everything(block,manifolds,hoses and water pump)is drained well all is good! Antifreeze, I suppose would be extra insurance.

Add stable to the fuel....and fog engine. Taking out T stat or impeller is optional...imo.

I used to just drain the block and NOT add anti-freeze. Each year, I noticed large pieces of scale would block the drains and I would have to pick it out. Now that I use antifreeze, this problem has stopped. Also, here is a quote out of the PCM engine manual:

"Fill the engine with a solution of 50% clean water and 50% of non-toxic food grade antifreeze. This helps to prevent the drying out of seals and gaskets, prevents the formation of hard, dry, rust scale in the water jackets , and prevents freezing damage from isolated pockets of trapped water."

I am a believer on the scale part, if nothing else.

I say that is a bunch of bunk. Sure, there are about a 50 different gasoline formulations that change seasonally, but I would be willing to bet that Stabil is Stabil month after month after month. Afterall, gasoline is gasoline with maybe just a bit more or less of certain chemical additives.

Could you imagine the logistics of trying to produce dozens of different Stabil formulas for different parts of the country (States) and then having to worry about seasonal changes as well, not to mention distribution. It wouldn't happen.

79nautique wrote: a two cycle motor should be drained of gas or ran until it quits and there is no fuel left.

Yeah, just ask our neighbors who have to listen to the snowblower running for 30 minutes in April.

Thanks 79 I like that explanation better that the lawn equip guy's.