351 overheating |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Any chance you have a shower or heater? sometimes they are plumbed oddly.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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cmacbuck69
Senior Member Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Jax, FL Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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I wish gravity were the answer, but we were sitting in the creek trying to take the strainer lid off to re-seat the o-ring, but the water was too hot. Again though, the plumbing is correct and the RWP pulls strong from the bucket. It also pushes it out of the exhaust, but maybe not as efficiently as Jim's GT40 clip. I think the circ pump is working, but at partial capacity. It is the original pump and has slight wobble to it. I've ordered the circ pump for a Saturday replace.
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cmacbuck69
Senior Member Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Jax, FL Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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So it's not the circulation pump. Everything has been check, verified, confirmed with the process repeated. Then I decided to shoot it with an infrared thermometer on the intake manifold just before the thermostat housing and it was just above 160 each time I shot it while the dash gauge was reading around 200. The next logical step is the water temperature sender.
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jhersey29
Senior Member Joined: February-20-2014 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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Aren't carbed boats running 140 and efi 163? Do you have the correct thermostat? Looks like a sender or gauge. Good luck
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Chris,
Before you purchase parts, I always suggest testing first. Get the VOM out and check the resistance at the gauge from the sender. Gauge manufactures do have references available for Ohms to temps. This one happens to be Teleflex. |
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cmacbuck69
Senior Member Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Jax, FL Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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After troubleshooting the Teleflex guide, here is what I found:
Codes on side of the the temp sender- one side = 02020, the other side = 782. Neither of these are listed in the manual. Is the temp sensor specific to the temp gauge? At the temp sensor I am getting about 620 ohms. This falls into the lower acceptable range of 600 to 800 ohms. Between the I and G terminal on temp gauge, I am getting 10.1 V. Again the lower of the acceptable range of 10-16 VDC. When I move the S wire to the G terminal, the Teleflex troubleshooting guide says this should peg the temp needle to 240 and it does not move the needle position. I am correct to assume then that the gauge is the issue? |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Chris,
When you ground the S terminal, you are removing all the resistance from the gauge. Make sure you are grounding to a known good ground. Most gauges have the ground terminal for the lighting only. The 10.1 volts to the gauge is on the low end especially if the engine is running. Start at the battery with voltage and move through the wiring to see if you find a spot you are loosing the volts. |
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cmacbuck69
Senior Member Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Jax, FL Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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I connected a ground to my fuse black installed for the stereo system and that had the same result with not spiking the needle to 240+. Also the engine was not running when I took the readings I gave earlier that may explain why they were low.
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BoyceByerly
Newbie Joined: May-19-2015 Location: Durham, NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Hey guys, newbie here with an old '79 Correct Craft Mustang, with a question about overheating. I took the boat out last weekend, and the exhaust hoses split pretty badly. (I'll omit the dramatic story about the amount of water it took on, etc.). I've had it for a couple years, and have no idea how many owners it's had, so I just assumed that the hoses were totally old and rotten, and replaced the hoses (plus, every other hose in the cooling/exhaust systems that looked suspect). In reading through the posts, I've seen that an overheating engine often ruins the exhaust hoses, and have been rethinking what happened.
Given that: 1) Both hoses ruptured in numerous places, and 2) The temperature gauge did NOT come up, despite the boat having been run for about 5 minutes 3) One of the flappers came off. I'm wondering if something other than rotten exhaust hoses is involved here. Maybe a blocked strainer? Could the water pump be bad (symptom #2 above) is what really puzzles me -- it could be the gauge went bad over the winter, I winterized the boat in the normal way, but it was a really cold winter here. Should I take the water pump apart? |
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Boyce Byerly
Owner of a '79 Mustang |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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That's a little bit of a toughie.
At least two issues, one being the gauge/sender situation, and one (or more) making up the actual cooling situation. Did you figure out if the engine actually did overheat? I guess it would be very coincidental for both hoses to randomly split. You need to start with the bucket test, google correctcraftfan bucket test. The essence of the idea is that you make the boat pull it's own water from a bucket, rather than force feeding it with a hose, to get an idea of what's going on. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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36 year old hoses are your problem,time to change them. I changed my Mustangs heads after 20 years the hoses were starting to get bubbles inside them.
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BoyceByerly
Newbie Joined: May-19-2015 Location: Durham, NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Okay, thanks for the help. The 'bucket test' materials helped me diagnose the problem. I'll explain what the problem was (it was a popped freeze plug) and then ask for more help (I can't figure out how to fix the freeze plug.)
When I got all the hoses and exhausts and everything back in place, I started the bucket test, and immediately noted water pouring out of the side of the block on the starboard side. It was a freeze plug. When I winterized, I pulled the lower parts of the hoses and drained it, and then pulled the upper parts of the hoses and poured in about a gallon of RV antifreeze. In retrospect, I should have used more antifreeze, and/or run the engine a bit to make sure it mixed thoroughly around the block. There must have been a pocket of water in the lower part of the engine. It was a particularly cold winter this year in NC; I'm sure my winterizing would have not been up to scratch for colder areas. The missing freeze plug must have (1) caused the engine to overheat, stressing the elderly exhaust hoses and blowing them, and (2) left no water to flow over the engine temp sensor, accounting for the very low temperature reading. Now, my question is, what do I do about it? The videos I've seen online about how to hammer the plugs back into place presume you can swing a hammer onto the plugs to pound them in, and these plugs are blocked thoroughly by the engine mounts. I can press the plug in with my fingers pretty easily, but that seems inadequate to make them stay, even using gasket shellac as suggested. It might be that pulling the engine and unbolting the manifolds would give me some leverage, but that's too horrible to even think about. Any advice? Oh, it's a '79 Mustang with a 302 Ford V8, if that helps. -Boyce |
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Boyce Byerly
Owner of a '79 Mustang |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Unfortunately I think by your description you winterized wrong. Sounds like you did not remove the plugs that drain the block,one is on the starboard front near the and about the height of the freeze plugs. The other is the port side toward the rear of the block. You drain those, drain the hoses,drain the manifolds then pour antifreeze in . Matter of fact if you made sure everything was drained North Carolina doesn't get cold enough to even need antifreeze.. Many up here in the Great White North winterize the same way. Antifreeze is just insurance. Part of the problem was diluting what antifreeze you did put in with the water that was left in the block.. You now might have to use a bottle jack under the starboard manifold and depending which plug it is,remove the starter or motor mount so you can put in a new brass freeze plug,after cleaning the hole with some emery cloth just to make sure it's clean. You could smeer the contact area of the plug with some permatex. Google or check u tube on how to put one in,I just use a socket that just fits inside the plug and a hammer. Good Luck
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cmacbuck69
Senior Member Joined: June-19-2013 Location: Jax, FL Status: Offline Points: 105 |
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Finally found the issue! I have been so focused on getting cold water into the engine that I overlooked the hot water getting out. The exhaust manifold riser was swollen so bad from corrosion that it was letting a small portion of hot water out of the engine. Two photos, 1 is the old riser and 2. the new riser. Replaced both risers, dunked her in the creek for a test run and she is running like a top!
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FootFever78
Newbie Joined: September-22-2014 Location: Cicero, IN Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Not sure if I posted the fix to my issue, so here goes if not:
I took the RWP off for the 3rd time at the suggestion of Zach at N3 Boatworks. The thinking at the time was a rebuild kit. When we went to take the impeller off, it wouldn't budge - it was stuck on the shaft. After much prying, it popped off. We discovered the "key" in the shaft that should slide in/out easily was actually rusted to the point that it would not allow the impeller to install all the way despite allowing it to rotate. What resulted was a gap between the bottom of the impeller and the back of the RWP plate. This gap both allowed water to skirt the impeller, as well as prevent the RWP from screwing all the way back together despite appearing so. This was clearly the air leak culprit. Did a light "rebuild" inclusive of a new impeller (just 'cause) and a new "key", etc. Now it pulls like a mule. Thanks to all for the advice and patience. And next time I'll know to take pictures while troubleshooting. The fix actually surprised me at the time. JFH |
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BoyceByerly
Newbie Joined: May-19-2015 Location: Durham, NC Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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I managed to get it fixed, so I thought I would add a note or two. First, I never did the standard plugs in; I use the "performance" ones you can get with a nut in the middle of it that tightens. That was way easier than pounding the brass one covered in gasket seal in. I just never got the knack of getting it in there, even using the trick with freezing it.
Secondly, taking ONE engine mount is not a big deal, just some wrench work. The remaining three support it fine. The biggest problem was that the clearance between the engine mount and the freeze plug was still really low. My experience was that with the freeze plug mounted and tightened, the engine mount would fit, by about 3/8". So what I ended up doing was putting the plug in, remounting the engine bracket, THEN tightening the nut on the freeze plug. The bolt then comes out enough to press tight against the engine mount. It's hardly "factory", but it works and stays in fine with no leakage. |
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Boyce Byerly
Owner of a '79 Mustang |
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