a little hard to start after sitting for 30 mins.

Steve I'm surprised that this one has sat here unanswered as I know there are guys more qualified to answer more than I but I'll give it a shot. Mine used to do the same as yours to the point that I never shut off the engine while changing skiers. I finally took the initiative and rebuilt the carb in 2009 before the River Run. I set the timing before we left but the Boat Dr. fine tuned her when I was there. She's been running great ever since. I did however give the idle a half turn last week as it was idling rough to the point where she just quit.
No problems starting her now and shut it off all the time now. Has the carb ever been rebuilt? If it hasn't; it may be time.

Chris, I think the half hour here is key. If it were leaking a bit (after shut down) due to a high float, it should only leak for a few minutes, right? It would be flooded for a few minutes right after shut down, but a half hour later would allow the gas to evaporate, I would think. To start a flooded engine you need to open the butterflies- not pump the throttle and dump more gas down the throat like he describes.

I would certainly check to make sure fuel isnt dripping after shut down, but I suspect his idle simply needs to be dialed in. Restarting after a half hour should be easy.

TRBenj wrote: Chris, I think the half hour here is key. If it were leaking a bit (after shut down) due to a high float, it should only leak for a few minutes, right? It would be flooded for a few minutes right after shut down, but a half hour later would allow the gas to evaporate, I would think. To start a flooded engine you need to open the butterflies- not pump the throttle and dump more gas down the throat like he describes. I would certainly check to make sure fuel isnt dripping after shut down, but I suspect his idle simply needs to be dialed in. Restarting after a half hour should be easy.

It will still act like it is flooded, you open up the trottle all the way right, to start a flooded engine? correct? yes? isn't that adding more fuel?, just as pumping the trottle and the accel pump does too? I doubt the trottle is going back to neutral and staying in neutral after it's pumped and the engine actually fires.

Now if it is going back to neutral and no additional throttle movement is required then the timing is too advanced or the choke stat needs tweeked or possible loose bolts on the intake or carb.

Steve, yes I am, but Delta got rid of recip engines long before I hired on. I only studied carburated fuel controls for about 4 weeks in A&P school and that was 20 yrs ago. It was an easy rebuild and if you have handled small carbs this one isn't much different. I did leave the power valve alone and didn't swap it out. Just take your time when you do it and make sure any small springs don't get sprung.

I've been slow to run down this problem fellas.   The boat runs so good in every other respect, I've just dealt with the hard hot start.

my carb is definitely NOT leaking after shut down as some suspected.   TRBENJ you said something of an idle adjustment that could be tried. Can you tell me more about that? What RPM should the idle be set at? It should be set with the motor idling in gear under load, correct?

If the idle is set properly and it still is difficult to start after a 20 minute rest then what?

I read in another thread the heat soak theory and possible gas vaporization/vapor lock idea which seemed pretty controversial. I can tell you this, my boat typically runs at 155 degrees while idling and while cruising around. However, when I come off of plane, especially after running hard, the temp will climb to 180 sometimes even 200 and stay there for a few seconds. If I idle for a minute or so (maybe less), the temp cools back down to 155. While I've consistently had the hot start issue since I've owned the boat, this heat soak issue has been on my mind more lately as I've kept a closer eye on the temp. (Been footing alot lately and runnin it hard)

Do you guys think my hard hot start has to do with the temp climbing after coming off of plane?

thank you....

yes, the throttle needs to be pumped 3-4 times if it sits 15 minutes or more or it won't start.

yes, the PO changed to EI

can the coil be checked? how do you do that? does it get checked when it's cool, hot, both?

Spark Tester Tool

you could try closing the air mixture screws 1/4 - 1/2 turn each and see if it improves.

I was wondering is anyone running a jumper wire for permanent use to get the 12v at the coil for faster starts ???

Its not an ignition problem it's a carburetor problem, don't start chasing your tail!
If you run 12v direct to the coil you will have ignition problems!!!

Chris glad to see you back.

JasonR wrote: It's only at 12 volts while cranking. This is a old Mercruiser trick. It takes two minutes to give it a try compared to tearing into a carb. I would call that chasing your tail.

It's not an "old Mercruiser trick". It goes way back before they even went beyond outboards.

How many boats do you think are out there starting fine without the resistor bypass during cranking? I go with a carb issue as well.

Well thanks for correcting me and nice tact. I believe all of the posts on these threads are a attempt to help. Why don't we all just stop and you can answer all of then correctly. Jeez...

I think I mis-understod the question above. I thought he wanted to bypass the resistor for full time running.

Yes, bypassing the resistor for start-mode only is a great idea.

I used it as a diagnostic tool to rule out a carb problem then switched to electronic ignition, removing the ballist resistor. I understand its a open forum and (and) tact should be used. The resistance, I believe, was from the chasis wiring harness itself and although I didn't replace the whole harness the problem was fixed. I think I'm done with this.

SNobsessed wrote: I think I mis-understod the question above. I thought he wanted to bypass the resistor for full time running. Yes, bypassing the resistor for start-mode only is a great idea.

Thank you Chris,   I just saw this and I am amazed at the other replies. There are a few "professionals" on this site that preach this as a standard retrofit on these boats but when someone they don't know suggests it they remain quiet. Guess I'm just confused as to when one should speak up, might not be the issue with the boat in question but it is an accepted practice.