woo hoo!!! reverse 351w assembly

Hello i have a 78 ski nautique with a reverse rotation 351w.

Block was cracked - removed reverse cam and crank, timing chain, and front timing cover.

I got the crankshaft machined down in reverse rotation.(20/20)
I got the camshaft reversed polished. (was in good shape)

Im using a running 351w that i removed from a 78 cougar. (YES I KNOW IT ROTATES THE OTHER WAY.)

I ordered fel-pro marine reverse rotation seals for a 78 351w-
received them and they are labeled for 260/289/302.

Front timing cover seal.   rev. rotation seal 17795
Rear main seal 2pc. rev. rotation seal 17746

Im about 90% sure 302 and 351w use the same lower gaskets. Can anyone confirm???

I got 20/20 crankshaft bearing kit to install.

I got brass freeze plugs to install.

Im not going to replaced pistons rings, not pulling the heads.
Just swapping the Auto cam and crank to the marine reverse cam and crank, and re using the reverse timing chain set.

Im reusing rev. starter, rev. distributor, marine intake and carb.
reusing oil pump and pickup tube from rev. engine.

I live in Washington and the boat won't get many hours on it.
I understand auto to marine specs are slightly different, but this will be a low hour, low budget build.

Running 78 cougar with 351w - $500
crank reverse grind - $125
cam reverse polish- $25
brass freeze plugs- $10
marine felpro gaskets - $85
bearings, 1pc oilpan rubber gasket, valve cover gasket, assembly lube, $100


ANY SUGGESTIONS???? Im putting the engine together this week. The auto 351w is still a complete longblock. Finally have all the parts, seals and bearings.

Need torque specs for crankshaft mains/ caps, timing sprockets, and front timing cover.

A 78 should have the wick lines in the crank, and uses a 2-piece rear main seal, yes? Make sure that is the configuration of both engines you're swapping between, otherwise the blocks/cranks aren't compatible. If they're the 2-piece, then the RMS is not rotation specific- only the later one piece styles were, as there were no oil control grooves in the crank. I was not aware that 302 and 351 rear main seals were the same... Outside chance that is possible on the 2-piece version but I know the one piece styles are different.

I agree on replacing the pump and timing set, won't cost $100 extra.

fel-pro marine...
ok the front reverse cover seal is the same part number for 302 and 351w. 17795
the reverse rear main seal (2pc)
302- 17746
351w- 17748

new seal comes in later this week.   
bearings- $45
timing chain set- $35
oil pan gasket - $13    (didnt want to spend $42 on one piece rubber)

I priced oil pumps....   the car 351w had great oil pressure, may just reuse it
oil pump - $50 for regular, $90 for high volume.

I Like to think of contrarian view points -- Maybe the old OEM oil pump is better than the replacements that come from China??

TRBenj - ok i now see there are no differnces in the rms, since its a 2pc with wick lines on the crank.
so i normal car rear main seal will work?

Front timing cover seal -   c9je-6700-a

replacement seal from felpro (same part number for 302 and 351w) does not have the outter lip on it.


maybe i'll just put a normal rotation front cover seal on it too. ???

all my rod caps are on correctly, numbers matching, bearing grooves matching.

assembly lube was used, besides where plastigauge was tested.

with rod nuts slightly snug, the rotating assembly moves as it should, no binding.

Thanks for documenting this is really interesting
I replaced my front cover (crank) seal with a standard rotation one, decided it wasnt a major concern as thats what was in there before..

rechecked all my bearing locations, and directions.     

#1 rod is stamped 13 on rod and cap, all other #'s match the cylinder number   (maybe was replaced at some time?)

#1 rod/cap have the same part number as all other rods/caps.

2 days ago the engine turned over fine with the CAR crank, the rod bearings when removed were in great condition with no visable wear.

if a rod was out of round it should typically show wear on the old bearings.

back to the garage to figure this baby out

i read online that 69-73 351 have 2.31 rod journals and
74-81 have 2.32 rod journals. (so i bought .030 bearings)

my machined crank measured 2.29     so 2.32- 2.29 = .030 bearings.

everything seemed correct...    besides what i thought was a tight .001 plastigauge clearance, im guessing the plastigauge can only can squish so far.


so i measured the old crank from the car, = 2.31
2.31 - 2.29 = .020

stupid me either got the wrong info on crank journal sizes or didn't bust out my handy cheapo digital caliper early enough.

=======================
so i measured the bearing thickness' to double check my measurments.
stock bearings .057 x2 (upper and lower) = .114 (.00)
boat bearings before i had crank turned .062 x2 = .124 (.10)
the bearings i need .067 x2 = .134 (.20)
.030 bearings i bought .072 x2 = .144

been awhile for me.....    does it sound like im on the right track?

sry for being a posting whore!

nw78nautique wrote: by the wiring plug / sileniod   there is two orange wires that are connected to each other.   looks like it used to have an eyeloop that corroded off

I feel you will need to be more descriptive. Where are the wires going to? A picture would be great. By "silinoid", do you mean the start relay? Some do still call them a solenoid. The "eyeloop", do you mean a ring terminal?



Orange wires have been used to connect to the NSS (neutral safety switch). Is it hooked up? It's the cranking feed from the ignition switch to the starter relay coil.

i bought new plugs for the back of the ex manifolds.

almost done, installed risers, fuel line, distributor and some other stuff today.

I forgot to put STUDS on the intake for the throttle bracket! so i'll fix that tomorrow.

I noticed the steering is Froze up today so i'll be looking into that too     

Have to put some oil her, flush out the gas tank, and Might be starting it tomorrow!!

Your first picture of the old motor shows the NSS hooked up with the two standard white wires.

Maybe this will help

i finished up everything today. filled it up with oil. and flushed the gas tank.
Not even close to running.
Engine barely turns over with starter, tried two good batterys, and a load charger.
Soleniod had 12v in, 7v out while cranking, so i replaced the soleniod.

Double checked tdc #1, compression stroke- rotor pointing at 1 on cap. (even tried it 180 out with no difference)

Pulled the plugs, turns over alot better but not enough.

Double checked firing order,   Starter/distributor is from original reverse 351w. (both were replaced 2 mo before motor died)

I guess i'll pull the starter back out and get it tested.
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edit. motor spins over freely, starter is drawing power.

gR@HaM wrote: Thanks for documenting this is really interesting I replaced my front cover (crank) seal with a standard rotation one, decided it wasnt a major concern as thats what was in there before..