help! first boat almost there!

Hey CCfan peeps!

well after getting a 'good deal' on my first boat - 99 sport nautique w/ 600 hours, PCM PRO BOSS GT-40. I've spent the last year working on it, restoring gel coat, diagnosing problems, and fixing them to the best of my abilities.. couple new relays got her running initially, new distrib cap & rotor, plug wires, oil etc, replaced the little hose to the high pressure pump, then a new low pressure fuel pump got her running much better.. but I'm still getting the same problem when i take her out. so far, the money/time spent to fun ratio is pretty dang skewed.

anyways the motor runs/ sounds great/ smooth until after a little time running she hesitates for half a second, losing all power for a beat or two. seems to get progressively worse the longer I'm out.

figure I'll run through all the ground/ electrical connections, clean them & add dielec grease..

also just picked up a INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital Code Reader maybe it will help me diagnose?

suppose I should attach a pressure gauge and test the injector psi while running..


anyways if this sounds familiar to any of you/ or if you have recommendations of what to test/ replace I'd certainly appreciate it. not sure i can stomach another trip to the water to discover I still haven't fixed the problem. this forum had really been helping I'm almost there!!!

much thanks

Jon

Here is the link to that thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&title=poor-mans-gt40-diagnosis

When you say lose all power, like your dash goes out and everything? Or just all engine power.

Is this a key switch or touch pad type of dash?

Well I've done a few things before I test her again tomorrow..

cleaned all the elec grounds, replaced the TFI ignition module (the old one looked pretty dang corroded where it makes contact) connected an INNOVA code reader and ran a KOEO test and got code 11 - 10 - 15 which according the the Pro Boss service manual says to 'Measure resistance between PWR GND circuit at EEC power relay engine harness connector and battery negative post). so ah did that. resistance was indeed less than 10 ohms so it says proceed to next test that requires a 'BREAKOUT BOX'

hmm well that's a $300 tool?

wondering if anyone of yalls out there knows what I'm talking about as I'm not sure I do..

basically just wondering if there is any way to proceed with out a breakout box, or if anyone is familiar with a 'code 15' from the EEC -IV ?   maybe the TFI was causing the problem, I'll include a pic of how badly it was corroded.. any insight is very much appreciated!!!

ok an update.. so took her out on the 4th and.... GREAT SUCCESS!!! she ran perfectly, pulled some wake boarders/ girls on the tubes.. great time!!!!! fun to money ratio evening out now!    thanks to everyone on these forums/ CCfan.com!! especially whoever has sig - 'if you're going through hell, keep going' lol.   anyways.. wish i could end it here. but, she wouldn't fire up for a flush when i got er home.. clicking noise now.. here's what's been replaced/ fixed so far.. Main Battery Switch, TFI, both relays (when i bought it last year) way to test them w/ a multimeter?? cleaned all main grounds, new rotor cap & wires, new main 60A breaker.. I'll include a video maybe someone knows what to check next. but hey I'm close! at least the problem appeared on my driveway!

Jon

I know the alternator belt is tight - right ?
14 volt or so out put - gota start with good/clean electricity.

ya the TFI can get a ground through the goop? I did put a layer of the goop that came with the new one on before installing it.. and ya Waterdog i was getting 14+V at the battery terminals when the engine was running before i took er out on the 4th..

pbbrainard has me thinking though.. I'm still not sure how to keep a charge on my house and starter battery.. just put in a brand new deep cycle house battery under the helm, so connections there are solid. i must admit I was using/ switched to 'batt 2' the deep cycle to start and maintain a charge. that's bad? read somewhere it's a bad idea to switch batteries when engine is running? guy at the boat shop says to switch over to 1&2 combined when the engine is running to maintain a charge on both. puts the batteries in parallel right? thought with different amp hour ratings that was a bad idea? maybe a 'combiner' switch I've been reading about is the way to go? sheesh so much to learn. anyways I'll try what pb suggested tonight, maybe i have a bad solenoid. is what you suggested a way to determine if it's shot? "With the start relay engaged (trying to crank the engine) get a volt reading at the battery post, then the battery cable/post at the start relay from the battery and then at the battery cable/post at the start relay going to the starter. See if there's any voltage drop and report back." obviously the multi meter can't reach to batt neg post so i can use the engine block ground right? gosh such a newb.

rekn this is what i need if it is indeed bad..
http://www.nautiqueparts.com/solenoidstarterrelay.aspx

thanks!! Jon

ya it does seem like a big voltage drain/ drop. I'll check all the connections soon and voltages when cranking as suggested & report what i find..