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Kill switch replacement

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ArnaudBel View Drop Down
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    Posted: February-05-2017 at 7:27am
Hey there!

I'm doing some small maintenance on my SN '90, one things is the killswitch that just fell off every now and then. So I decided to replace it. The only one I found here in Belgium, is a universal kill switch with 4 pins. Now the thing is, the original kill switch has 2 pins.

Does anyone know which 2 pins I need to use? Also, I guess it doesn't matter which cable get connected to which pin, as it should work like an normal ON/OFF switch?

thanks in advance
and greetings from rainy Belgium!

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Orlando76 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2017 at 7:35am
Are you familiar with a VOM? Just use the ohm meter portion and without the lanyard on find which two terminals read open, then verify the same two terminals read closed when lanyard is installed. I am so glad to see somebody use and maintain a kill switch. I'm so disappointed with the knuckleheads that don't use them.
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2017 at 8:40am
Arnaud,
I'd like to welcome another Belgium'rs to CCfan. We have several here and I'd say Kristof is the most active. He would be a fantastic resource for you if needed. If you get a chance, post some pictures. We love them! Also a diary entry is always welcomed.

Yes on following Todd's recommendation for determining the NO and NC poles in the kill switch.


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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2017 at 9:03am
Arnaud,
If you don't already know Kristof, here's his contact information.


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ArnaudBel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArnaudBel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2017 at 3:13pm
Thanks for the quick responses guys! Now you mention NC and NO, I do remember seeing those on the killswitch, but I just glanced at it and thought it said NO on all 4 pins.
So I just connect the cables to NO? Don't need to worry about polarities, right?


I'm rebuilding the carburetor, this winter too. Also I'll be doing some small repairs to the hull (osmosis got ahold of it :/ ) and after that I'll polish it again so that the colours come out like new again!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArnaudBel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-05-2017 at 3:23pm
oops, I meant I just connect them to NC

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2017 at 7:05am
Originally posted by ArnaudBel ArnaudBel wrote:

Now you mention NC and NO, I do remember seeing those on the killswitch, but I just glanced at it and thought it said NO on all 4 pins.
So I just connect the cables to NO? Don't need to worry about polarities, right?

Arnaud,
Instead of guessing, I feel it's best to determine which set of contacts are NO (or NC) by checking continuity with the kill switch lanyard both connected and disconnected. As mentioned, a VOM is a great tool and a basic one is pretty inexpensive but a cheap battery/light bulb continuity tester can be used as well. What was wrong with the original switch? I've seen were the switch is good but the rubber part of the lanyard gets weak with age and no longer depresses the switch plunger anymore. Check your old switch as well. Maybe all that's needed is a new lanyard? No, polarity is not a concern. You are dealing with a simple single contact.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-06-2017 at 10:58am
I thought my kill switch was fine and the plastic just was worn and not compressing it enough because I could apply a slight amount of pressure to make contact, and a new lanyard (I keep a spare in the tool box) seemed to fix it. But, with the meter on it I found the switch was so touchy that it was going to keep interrupting power with bouncing/vibration. So, I changed out the switch. I know we are reluctant to toss out parts that are possibly still OK, but sometimes it makes sense to just replace the $20 part and move on.
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