Need quick help on winterizing my new purchase.

2000 pro air nautique. Gt40 351. Boat came from a warm climate to me in NC Today. I tried the boat out about 2 hours ago and now I am home. Not too worried about tonight as the low is 35 but tomorrow night it’s 21. I have secured a place until spring for storage but it won’t be ready until the weekend. I’m just worried about. Freezing Friday and Saturday night. Can anyone lend me some info on the best way to get some antifreeze in it? What all plugged need to be pulled? I have plenty of antifreeze. And go!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance! #stressing

KENO wrote: Here's a video from SkiDim on winterizing a 351w The most important thing is getting the water out and making sure no drains are plugged., before you get to putting the antifreeze in. There are a whole bunch of ways to winterize, the method in the video works and you get a good visual set of instructions. How's that for quick response?

Pretty quick thanks. You got a link to that vid?

Is there electric power where the boat is? in a pinch, you can put a magnetic block heater on the block or oil pan. I did this several times when I lived in Houston. It worked for me when I didn't have time to remove water and do a proper winter lay-up. I used the Kat's magnetic heater - Part number 1155 or 1153.

JQ

KENO wrote: Here's a video from SkiDim on winterizing a 351w The most important thing is getting the water out and making sure no drains are plugged., before you get to putting the antifreeze in. There are a whole bunch of ways to winterize, the method in the video works and you get a good visual set of instructions. How's that for quick response? Outstanding!! Even tells me what tools to bring to the boat. I’ll have this son if a gun. Ready tomorrow before dark. Thanks again man. Great stuff!!!! Probably help if I attached the link, here it is below link

samudj01 wrote: while I am not an expert I have heard a rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24 hrs to crack a block.

Longer, more like 48 hours but, draining is the safe way.

8122pbrainard wrote: samudj01 wrote: while I am not an expert I have heard a rule of thumb is 24 degrees for 24 hrs to crack a block. Longer, more like 48 hours but, draining is the safe way.

I’m not taking a chance. This is a super high dollar boat for me. I have twins in a private college and it makes one poor lol. It will be done before sunset tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys.

Jonny Quest wrote: The heater did keep everything fairly warm inside a closed engine cover. JQ

The sound insulation inside the engine hatch is also a great thermal insulator so yes, it stays warm for a pretty long time. Also the reason in many cases a simple incandescent bulb will do the job. Don't use one of the new LED's!   

So........... since we seem to talk a lot about USCG/marine approved starters, alternators, carburetors, fuel line etc and how they help to minimize the chance of an explosion, why do people do things like put light bulbs, heaters etc that aren't USCG/marine approved in the enclosed bilge area?   

Must be a money saving thing since the approved stuff is expensive or maybe "they don't know what they're talking about" or maybe " slim chance of that happening to me"

Plenty of people seem to do it

If it's going to go below freezing, why not just drain the block? It takes 5 minutes.

Riley wrote: If it's going to go below freezing, why not just drain the block? It takes 5 minutes.

Especially here in NC, where we dont have long, hard freeze, 6 month layups and a chance to use our boats all year when conditions cooperate. I probably have it comfortably under 5 minutes with these additions, tho I still have one hose to take off, on the bottom end of the tranny cooler.



I suppose I could have gone to skidim and paid $135 for these, but I think I accomplished the same thing for $15-$20.



(HW, I did that so I could save money to buy some new equipment)

Most any auto parts store. No need for marine rated............

Those small quick drains on the large exh manifold plugs make me nervous.. seems I’m always getting large scale out of cast iron manifolds. Probe carefully every time. Mcmaster sells nicer all-brass versions of the quick drains... solid handles that are easier on (cold) fingers and they don’t rust.

FYI the mcmaster version comes all the way out so you can probe. Even if they flow well, it doesn’t take much to block the opening. Even the block drains with fully removed plugs seem to stop up pretty regularly (often half way through the drain so it is far from obvious).

75 Tique wrote: As greg said, the set I used came from hardware store (or auto parts store). If you like to spend, the catalogue cut is from SKIDIM. http://www.skidim.com/searchprods.asp Search "drains" Where in NC are you?

Lake Norman

These seem a lot simpler if you don't like using a wrench on the hex plug.. Harnden Marine make them out of stainless if you don't like plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Mercruiser-Replacement-Drain-Plug-Kit/dp/B01LFS3KAC/ref=asc_df_B01LFS3KAC/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699466217&psc=1