Barracuda strut to prop distance

Does anyone have a Barracuda that has an original shaft?  I would like to know the prop to strut distance.  

Todd, What is the hull to prop clearance, .75"?

To assist with some basic math...

Assuming a 15° strut angle, you will see a decrease in hull clearance of 27% of the amount you shorten the shaft (so shortening by 2-1/4” will reduce clearance by just over 1/2”). If it’s a steeper strut like 17°, it goes up to 30%.

Did the barracuda use the same 6wb strut as the mustang?

I have seen boats set up with minimal hull clearance (less than 1/2”) and despite the fiberglass damage that comes with prolonged use, there were no ill effects with the way the boat behaved (even the overpowered ones). While 1” or more clearance would be ideal per the general 10% rule, it seems 3/4”-7/8” is more typical, at least on mine and the others I’ve measured.

Bruce, mine is a '66 hull and is the shorter model. And now with a tape in my hand, both the prop to strut and prop to hull are 7/8". Sorry, can't compare the before and after handling differences as I bought the boat with a cracked block and did motor and shaft concurrently.

Pete, sometime between now and spring, could you measure Charlies?

Remember to social distance......

Neither do weak humans

KENO wrote: Well, through the magic of that thing called a search, here's a picture of Charlie's original shaft and Charlie too  Since he got a new shaft when the old one bit the dust, there's probably not much need for Pete to measure Charlie's shaft again since it sounds like the new one was probably shorter anyways. You can easily see the amount of shaft sticking out and get a  good idea of the length and the hull clearance since there's a ruler in the picture showing the clearance Just trying to save Pete from having to probably lay on the ice with a flashlight on New Years Eve to get a picture of what isn't original and from the sounds of it the one in the picture may not be original anyways.(but I'll guess that it was the original)

I’d wager a guess that cc’s designers were able to do the same math that I did and purposely added 2+” to the Cuda shaft overhang in order to increase prop-hull clearance by ~1/2”... and thus fit a larger (13” diam) prop. (Relative to the Mustang set up with the same strut and 12”.) Sloppy rigging for sure, but effective.

Bruce, I would compare the strut to rudder distance Cuda vs Mustang just for kicks, but even if it’s a few inches different, I wouldn’t expect that is the source of your strange handling... assuming that’s what you’re really after will all this research. I suspect a larger (heavier) than original motor, with a bit more hp, might have something to do with it. If trying to correct, I’d be shortening the shaft (like you’ve already done) and inspecting the rudder very closely for bends or other issues. I assume you’ve spoken to Reid on the topic as he’s gone through shaft and rudder issues on his similar hull/FE Classic. At a minimum I’d be running the newer style 27a rudder instead of the lillipad, but a longer (deeper) rudder like Reid uses now might not be a bad idea. I wouldn’t rule out the use of a cavitation plate back there either- the 390 Classic has a large trim tab that would also keep the rudder from ventilating, if it overhangs the transom like I know some of the 16’ boats do.

Sounds like you’ve got this all figured out. Just trying to figure out how much you’re going to lengthen the shaft I assume?

Bruce,

Bruce,

TRBenj wrote: Riley wrote: Thanks, Pete.  That's good info.  The log on a Cuda must be a bit more forward than it is on a Mustang?   A bit more forward relative to what? Certainly not the strut of the same one was used on both boats.

Riley wrote: Relative to the transom or rudder..

Those are the types of things (amongst others) that you should be checking before going down any errant paths with shaft lengthening. How many classics, Mustangs and skiers do you have to measure?

Just the shaft length.  Looking for the base line as we cut ours down to "optimum" length.