Cant get the crank hub bolt out

Some of you read my thread about breaking the timing chain, well i've started tearing down the front of the motor to replace it. I cant seem to get the crank hub bolt off because the motor just keeps turning over when i wrench. I tried putting the trans in gear but that obviously didnt work. I need some way to stop the motor so i can take this bolt off.

TRBenj wrote: Are you using an impact gun?

no because the ski pole is in the way, i tried to loosen the nuts for the pole but the bolt starts to spin

81nautique wrote: I would think that is gonna be a tough one without the impact gun. Could you possibly get a strap wrench around the balancer to hold it? Not sure if that will work and then you still have a problem tourqing it back down when re-installing. I'd work on that pylon again. You could pull the tranny and try to hold the crank in place from that end but it's probably easier to pull the motor. Here's another thought for you, do you have enough room to get a puller on the balancer even if you do get the bolt out or is the pylon still in the way?

The thing is the bolts just spin when i turn the nut on the pylon, arent the bolts part of the boat? I cant seem to get my hand to the back of the bolt.

ok two ways of doing it, the first the postion of the wrench makes a hugh difference. Also can't remember if it has left hand threads or not so you might try turning it the other way.

method one is with a long breaker bar or ratchet and you have to have the wrench handle at just before 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock and that will help direct the torque to the bolt and not spin the crank.

The second is a little easier. get two old bolts and screw them into the holes used to mount the pulley then use a long pry bar against them to keep it from turning.

Hollywood wrote: The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.

There should be nylon lock nuts on the back side and you while have to reach in the inspection cover by the battery box to get to them but you really don't need to do all that if you just screw in two bolts into the harmonic balance and use a pry bar against them. Don't make the job harder than it all ready is.

Hollywood wrote: The bolts are supposed to spin, they are loosening. Nothing to hold on the other side as far as I know, atleast not on the '88 thought it was the same since '80. It's a giant clamp, think of it as two horizontal C-clamps one on top of the other. Then remove the bolt/nut at the bottom through the female cup. Pole should slide out nicely.

loosened the 4 bolts, i thought they were u-bolts at first, took out the bolt and nut at the bottom but i cant get the pole to come out, tried hammer, wiggling, and prying at the bottom

Kevin I'll give you that one the one that I saw had bolts and not u-bolts, didn't even have the side braces either.

I agree but even f you get the bolts and pin out it still will catch on the floorboards some as well. might try twisting it a little back and forth as you pull out on it.

I just took the pylon out of the 82. There were four bolts and nuts clamping the pylon into the aluminum bracket. Not the U bolts as Hollywood depicted above. The nuts on mine were nyloc. You can reach through the bilge hole in front of the motor box and get a wrench on them. It will probably take two people. One to reach through the bilge hole and one on the bolt end near the motor. There's also a small bolt through the pylon/floor receiver at the bottom. I had to twist the pylon pretty good as it was rusted in at the bottom assembly. BKH

don't frget you have to drop the front of the oil pan a little to get the timing cover off and a couple of the pan bolts screw into the cover it's self.

81nautique wrote: wannabeSS, How many hours on the motor? I've seen chains stretch but never busting a gear like that. Especially on these boats where the prop never breaks free. That seems a little odd to me.

700 on the boat, all the teeth on the gear are worn off and a lot are chipped. I went to advance auto and it was a little difficult to find the right gear, but they are getting one transferred to the store. how do you guys usually buy motor parts for these?

I don't know if I would have bought it from advance, but I wouldn't have just bought the gear only and would have got both gears and a chain as a set. A lot of the gears are actually nylon not all but alot, doesn't really suprize me it striped the gears once one or two go the rest go quickly.

I'll have to look for the bolt kit. Should be the right one.

go to NAPA and get it there and ask if they have a roller timing chain and gear set and ask if they have more than one brand to select from and get the one that cost a little more and is a brand name like speed pro, clevite, sealed power. get the NAPA brand if you have too or the others are too much cash.

I never trust the guys at autozone, advance, o'riely's most can't find their a**hole let alone parts. NAPA, CARQUEST or a mom and pop parts store are much safer then most of the national chains, besides unless you ask for name brand parts at autozone/advance and the like, your going to get the cheapist crap on the market.

If I Buy parts from one of those stores I'm going and asking for a specific brand and part number and never let them look it up.

81nautique wrote: 79, I was surpised to see the gear set that came off my motor had nylon gears. Cheap piece of crap. I'm a firm believer that these motors need a timing chain set at 700 hours.   I got a double roller cloyes set at summit for about $40.

Did the double roller fit w/o cutting the cover? I know on my camaro motor i had to remove some material to fit the DR.

79nautique wrote: Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit.

Same here.