Anyone with a duct-u-lator?

pete, My buddy says 145 cfm, and this is figured 3.00 x 14. he could not figure on the 3.25 but this is what he would use as a benchmark. this is roughly the same as 6.5 in. round.......
Hope this helped,he called at 8:30 and yes he was on a boat, catching Red Fish, and yes he limited out............

Question for you HVAC guys. I need a new boiler for my house (baseboard heat). I am looking at Slant Fin boilers. What's the word on these? It's replacing a 40+ yo Peerless boiler and I thought that I wanted to replace it with a Peerless but now I don't know.

any questions you guys have id be more than happy to help out..how i make my living..
mark- carrier performance 90 or other models..the 90 has the cast aluminium heat exchanger and is a 90 %..trane makes both a gas and oil boilers thats just as well imo also..as barracuda stated buderus is a good product also but can be more of a pain in the ass to install due to the programming...is there a reason why you want to stay with the boiler set-up? complete systems are cheaper going with forced air(if adding a/c).

You may want to look at this one too. It's what I'm going with and with the domestic hot water as well.

Weil-McLain® Ultra Condensing High Efficiency Gas Boiler

MM- We have a Weil McClain propane boiler and super store HW tank- The system has been very good to us since we've owned the house. From what I've been told the super store HW tanks are very efficient.
I'm with you on the hot water vs force air heat.
Rip out your radiators and retrofit some radiant under the floors We love the radiant heat!

well we know who has the deep pockets on here(barracuda)!! wirsbo is some pretty slick stuff and very easy to install...sorry joe, but imo those are the top two in the hvac industry..speaking of h20 tanks ..go instant hot!!!things kick ass

Be very carefull on the UNDER floor install. You will need to go through the btu losses of the house. You will only get a max of 30 btu's per sq. ft. The prefered method is ABOVE the sub floor (in floor). There are several IN floor retro fit methods as well as a floor system that replaces the sub flooring. The gypcrete (above floor) is now considered to have too much thermal "lag". IE: on hot to cold days/nights it takes too long to react. Even with the IN floor, supplemental fin tube in troughs may be required in front of large glass areas like sliding doors. The floor covering is also a major concern. All hydronic floor heating must have the floors insulated. Along with my Weil Mclein boiler, I plan on going with the Warmboard product which is the subfloor substitute.

Ryan, It's done all the time. It just may not be popular in your part of the country. Do the calculations with 30 btu per sq. ft. as a base line. Figure in all your losses on all sides of the house. You do need a house that is insulated well.

Ryan, Run the load calculations using a R50 for the ceiling, a R19 for the walls, a R21 under the floor and a R2 for windows/doors. (The R2 is about average for a double glazed window). Use a delta T of 90 degrees and see what you get.
The R factors are currently about what the DOE is recommending.

[QUOTE=bmiller] If you are going to stay at that house for a long period of time,you may think of going geothermal.Its alot up front in terms of money,but you will recover your money pretty quick.It also depends on where you live.[QUOTE]

Now we have someone talking sense, fossils are only going to be getting more expensive. The future is coming. If I was building a new house I would be drilling geothermal wells. If I was planning a new development I would install community wells/ponds..

Love in floor radiant heat btw, especially for a garage, built my brother in law a woodstove boiler and an in floor system for his workshop and it is awesome.

Hollywood, it took me a minute but i busted out laughing, I havn't laughed that hard in a while.
Eric

Guys, Thanks for the input as it is appreciated.
I've had a few years to do a lot of research plus I do have a friend in HVAC so I really feel I'm making a sound decision. I'm going with in floor. This is on my little lake house in northern Wisconsin that will be getting a total remodel and major add on for my retirement house. I do not need AC as there typically are only 2 or 3 days a summer when its needed. The evenness and the comfort of in floor is the major factor. Without the need for ductwork and the use of Warmboard (the sub floor replacement) in floor really isn't that costly. The big item is the condensing boiler and the second are the pumps/flow zone controls. I did look into geothermal with the hydronic but with our cooler climate, plus all the trees my only option was some fairly deep extraction and injection wells. 3 years ago I went through getting a new water well and at $6000 did not want to add 2 more.(we also have some rather strict regs on process water well location to potable water wells) I love the idea but do not want to get into a overly complicated system in the north woods with the only repairman who understands it is 150 miles away!!

HW, don't come down on Jbear too much. He does do his own oil changes so that's a lot better than some!

Pete, I was only teasing the man. He's actually quite the gearhead nowadays. We couldn't get him in a foot line or shot ski line at the P.P. until he had that '80 running "just right".

Hollywood wrote: Pete, I was only teasing the man. He's actually quite the gearhead nowadays. We couldn't get him in a foot line or shot ski line at the P.P. until he had that '80 running "just right".

HW, I don't see any tools in his hands in the picture. Is this a new technique of starring at the engine and wishing it runs better?

it really looks like he's painting his toe nails in the picture, probably to match those Bermuda's