the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod

Roger, how's that 66 Barracuda coming along?

What are you guys using for your floors. I used 5/8" fir cdx in the Mustang which seems really strong, especially after a few coats of epoxy.

What about the cross members? I have the same question. What purpose do they serve and do I need to add them back into my 83? I am going to foam but still don't see the need for them. Am I missing something?

^^^exactly my point^^^

The notches seem to be prone to rot in the factory stringer system. Im sure they can be built better than they were on a restring, but theyre still a PITA to install correctly. I dont see the need to tie the stringers together with these straps, since the floor serves the same purpose. My guess is that these pieces simply allowed the factory to prebuild the stringer system and drop it the boat in one piece. Since we're not in a production environment and are replacing them one by one, I think theres a better way. A few strategically placed ribs seem to be a more sound design, easier to fully encapsulate, provide better support for the floor, and require minimal extra material. They also provide structural support between the hull and floor, which is probably a good idea if youre not refoaming. Did I mis anything?

For reference, here's a pic of Joe's rebuild (no foam, no straps). I think this is a good build to steal ideas from if youre not foaming, regardless of whether youre using coosa or wood. Ribs spaced in the 12-18" range (depending on the hull, floor thickness, etc) is probably about right.

Mike, I was actually thinking about your boat the other day as I was looking the Barracuda over. I guess both boats are in fairly similar condition. I was wondering how you were going to make minor gel reapirs, but now I know. I don't want to go that route. I can live with the checking on the deck and wet sanding will remove the scratches and restore the gel, but how do you repair gouges, especially along the chine?

Can someone explain to me the purpose of the notches? In the stock stringer system, there were some cross pieces stapled into these, right? Without the foam underneath, I cant see these providing much floor support- am I wrong? The stringers on our Skier will not have notches... instead, we are adding ribs between the secondary stringer and the hull wall. Mostly 1x's, but we'll use 2x's where the joints in the ply floor will land. Seems a lot more straightforward than having to glass in those notches- especially if youre not foaming.

You might have mentioned it before and I missed it but on page 3, the newest pictures of the stringers- It looks like you are capping right over top of the notches for the cross members and then cutting them back out after the resin has cured? Are you then going to go another layer over top of the cross member to tie it all together? Those cross members were amongst the most rotten areas of my boat so I am curious what other people are doing.

WakeSlayer wrote: Ha ha. That one is still up for debate. However, it is extremely likely at this point. probaby 80/20 in favor of. The Ponyboat is getting painted as we speak, but this one will need so much body work that I may as well gel. As near as I can tell it would cost nearly the same.

Gel!! What color are you going with?

WakeSlayer wrote: Pete, in honor of your credo, I am going to keep it nearly original. The only real mods are going to be the engine

So youre regelling? Nice!

Surprised to hear you say that Pete. I know that my ski pole has a bit of slop in it, not too bad . . . if I ever come to the day of redoing stringers having a cradle for the engine that would also support the pylon would be something to consider.

Mike does your pylon sit go through a 2x6 that is notched into the main stringers?


Chuck

Hey Chuck.

I am going to use the original mounts. I had considered a cradle, and I guess if I get more creative and ambitious, I could still do it. Probably will leave it.

Mike's Pics.....Looking good man!

I am going to run out of epoxy.

I got several layers of tape on the mains and the newest secondary. I installed the risers for the gas tank also. Next I plan to install the exhaust and get some glass on those and the rudder plate. After that I will get the last couple layers of tape on the mains and start on the biax.
My stupid computer at home will not allow me to post pics for some reason, despite telling to allow scripted windows.

Keegan,
To clarify what Mike has mentioned, the tube is adjustable in the block.

WakeSlayer wrote: I have not drilled the hole for my cable block post yet, either, but as I had to move the one on the Mustang due to the newer style cable.

I think I am going to run into this problem. PO replaced steering cable 3 years ago and he said it turns to one side sharper than on the other because of the new cable. He told me this after I had the thing apart already so I am not sure how significant the difference is. Ahhhh something new to research here on CCF.

We got the starboard main bedded last night. Filleted this morning. All three installed stringers are level, square and right where I want them. Have the port main filleted, and the port secondary's first two strips of glass down. I hope to get a good amount of glass on the mains tomorrow during the day, and install the last secondary tomorrow evening. Then just layer after layer after layer of glass. I need to coat the exhaust and rudder boards once more, and bed those in. Hopefully I can get to that tomorrow also. I am trying like mad to get the layup done before I head to St John. We'll see...
I swear I will get pics up as soon as my bro gets me all the ones he has taken.