New addition to the stable - ACME 470 Installed

Andrew I did the change over to dexron in the off season. Drain the existing oil (actually you have to suck it out). Fill with Dexron (as much as you can get in there) run a little while while engaging F & R then drain again and add fresh dexron.

This is the thread Trans Oil Change

to switch to Dexron, you'll need to flush it at least twice with new oil at op temp, there is a reason they switched, fill it to the top each time for better dilution

Yes an oil change is on the cards before I hit the water.!

I take it that particular brand finter doesn't rate highly with you guys.?

I note that the tranny is running the engine oil as per the book. Is it recomended to keep this arrangement or switch to dextron.?

Lewy,
I've only vacuumed the carpet in those pics. The vinyl still needs a good scrub.

Andrew looking good. My boat had a Fram filter on it when it arrived also. They must be cheap in US. I like the Baldwin or Ryco filters here in Oz. The interior has cleaned up nicely.

Quick update - with pics this time.

I removed & drained the tank, cleaned up the bilge a bit, and reassembled. Couple of pics of the engine completed & some interior stuff too.

I didn't get to start her up again yet for a number of reasons. Maybe tonight.


Bilge before


Bilge after


Tank


Engine


Engine 1


Seat cushion


This is the only real blemish in the carpet.

Originally posted by 79nautique

it might be the Gas causing the problem, or it might be the pro-tec which cannot be adjusted as it's a direct ignition system and runs solely off of sensors.


Chopper, the ProTech base timing can be adjusted, just like a distributor eg turning the distributor housing. You need to discconnect the knock sensor (and maybe the oil pressure????) so the computer doesn't adjust the timing internally. Base timing is around 12 degrees if i remember correctly. A quick search should bring something up.
Rob

Sea foam is a top end engine cleaner that can be used in the oil or gas or poured throught the carb to clean the valves and tops of the pistons of carbon. You can do the same thing with tranny fluid or water through the carb just do it on land hooked up to a fake-a-lake/hose has it smokes to bet all hell for a few minutes and it's not to healthy for the fish.

akabulla wrote: I would run it a little longer with some fresh fuel and see if it clears up. Maybe put a little seafoam in the fuel.

What is Seafoam.? some kind of dewatering additive.?

Yes draining the tank / fuel system is a good idea. I started it with the same gas it left the USA with so chances are it's a bit by now as it would have been sitting around for quite a while now.

Might make a start on pulling the tank tonight.

I should have some time on Sunday to pull it out of the shed & run it on the hose for a while.

SHE RUNS.!

I borrowed some leads last night for the trial.

After I got the fuel up to the carby, it gave a couple of coughs & sprung back to life.

Idle is really smooth, but I am experiencing some backfiring through the carb when I give it a rev. Could this be timing.? Does the static timing of the protech adjust the same as a regular points dizzy.?

I took some pics for you guys, but my camera just went flat when I went to download, so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to upload them.

OK so I've got all my shiny new bits on.

Starter is back on. Will give it a crank tomorrow

I'll have to take some new pics for you guys as it looks pretty.

just a quick question about the RWP, (I'll search for the answer, but that function isn't working for me at the moment)

Is the RWP is installed with "bolt out" for the 91.?

eric lavine wrote: I could only imagine what a starter would cost in your neck, unless you have a good rebuilder.

Yeah I don't want to know what a new one might be.!

He rebuilt the starter on the 89 for me & never had any more problems, so should be all good.

The hammer trick is really only good for a stuck starter... I dont think it would solve a recurring problem anyways! Sounds like you need to rebuild or replace.

Andrew, before you go to too much trouble, give the starter a few taps with a hammer. Sometimes they need a little coaxing after sitting for a long time.

Cheers Joey,
I rigged up a switch up at the dash wiring loom for the ignition on / off and a start "key" plug.

The remote solenoid was clicking away and nothing else.

So I ran 12V straight from the battery to the starter - nothing. Just some weak sparks. Pulled the starter & tested the wire to it. Solenoid is working fine as there is power to the starter +ve.

I hooked the starter up to a battery on the bench and it just sparked again.? So I pulled the cover off. Not sure what the mechanism under it is, but it moves in & out. If I push it in & apply power, the cog engages & spins.

Looks like I'm off to the auto electrician again on Monday.!

I might get it going sometime this month   

Andrew,

I was going to wait to chime in so someone could give you the exact procedure but I will give you a starting point. In the service manual of your engine in the reference section there are several wiring diagrams for the engine system towards the end of the manual. I would start there.

The way the ignition system works is you have the main power coming from the battery to either the starter or the starter solenoid depending on your setup. Then when the key is turned into the first position 12Vs power one screw on the solenoid and then when the key is turned all the way to start the engine another 12Vs is sent to a third screw on the solenoid. When the key is in the third position the power from the second position is still maintained. When the key is turned off the power from position 1 is cut which stops the engine.

On my setup when I needed to test the engine I hooked the main power from the battery using the larger cable to one screw on the soleniod and then I jumped that power to the screw on the soleniod that would be hooked up to key position 1 and then jumped that to key position 2 to start it. After it starts remove the jumper from key position 2 and to stop it remove the 12v supply from the screw for key position 1.

If I remeber right key position 1 is the red wire in the diagram and key 2 is the Yellow/Red. Here is a list of all the colors from the harness and engine which I think is pretty standard on all CC boats.

CIRCUIT CIRCUIT ENGINE HARNESS
NUMBER NAME WIRE COLOR
1. GROUND BLACK
2. TACHOMETER GRAY
3. WATER TEMPERATURE TAN
4. ENGINE ALARM TAN/BLACK
5. IGNITION PURPLE/WHITE
6. BATTERY RED/WHITE
7. STARTER YELLOW/RED
8. OIL PRESSURE LT. BLUE
9. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BROWN/WHITE
10. DATA LINE ORANGE/BLACK

I know that isn't the exact answer but maybe it will help you get started until someone else chimes in. There may be an easier way.

I know this isn't your setup but was one of the diagrams I found while doing my rebuild that I found helpful. It might help piece it together.



If you tie into the harness of the engine then make sure your transmission is in Neutral or it won't start because of the safety switch. Obvisouly even if you don't tie into the harness you want to make sure it is in Neutral anyways.