Unexplained Episodes of Stalling

8122pbrainard wrote: The other potential is the EI conversions have been know to create problems. Unfortunately there isn't an easy way to test them. I'd switch back to a point set.

There are easy ways to check the EI modules with a Volt Ohm Meter. Just google your brand of EI and find the trouble shooting section. Just did my Mallory setup last week. It checked good and was a coil issue. Some on here are against EI conversions or EI in general. Seems odd to me that 99.999% of the auto and boat manufacturers would switch to inferior ignition systems. Thanks but I'll keep my Electronic Ignition in everything I own.

Thanks for reply. And excuse my lack of knowledge, the igniter module is the rotary that the distributor cap attaches too?

Agree on your response and thanks for the link. Do we think that issue of poor power to the dash is related to the stalling?   Regardless I will likely do the upgraded wiring to alleviate the 12.5v reading issue. Consensus on ignition coil being the culprit and replacing it, this time with a resistor, needs to be focus?   Appreciate the feedback everyone.

Thanks Tony for the input. I was able to clearly define that the coil requires an external resistor based on its specs. Initially, I thought it was coil releated so replaced it, but then this weekend it happend again, and only then I noticed that the resistor was not wired in, so replaced that and got another coil for good measure....

Thanks so much for the quick feedback and welcoming me to the Forum, I appreciate it.

I believe the EI conversion has been in place for several years (certainly does not mean it could not be causing issues)., I will ask the previous owner who I met and purchased this boat through CCFan about when that was done and if he had any issues.

Do you (or anyone) have any concerns about the 12.5 voltage on the dash or think I need to be look at the fuel system?

Again, thanks everyone for the feedback and help.

Hello CorrectCraft Experts....I have a odd one for you that I can't solve and need your expertise. I have done my best to cruise existing topics as well as provide as much information as possible below. Thanks for taking a look!

Boat: 1989 Ski Nautique 2001, PCM 351. Electronic Ignition

Background: Purchased last October, I only took it out on the water twice, both without any issues. Over the winter it was winterized following best practices including an oil change, oil filter, etc.   Also during this time the fuel Filter housing was upgraded to a more modern one so filters were easier to find, etc.

Symptom: From a cold start, boat will turn over without issue, idle and level off as normal. I can cruise for 30-45 minutes without issue and this is usually about the time I make it to my destination so I dock it. Coming back 1-2 hours later (engine still warm), it will start fine, but then stall/die after about 45 seconds. After dying, I can usually start the boat right back, sometimes I have to wait a minute or 2. Apon turning back over, it will again run for about 30-45 seconds, then stall. This will continue 8-9 times until finally it decides to stay running and will be fine.

More Info on Scenario: The stalling happens regardless of idle, neutral revved, underway, etc. Two weeks ago I decided to replace the ignition coil. This seemed to have fixed the issue with an entire weekend without issue. That is until the last run of the day, when it stalled again, same scenario as above. After looking at it when the issue was happening, I noticed the ignition coil was unbelievably hot. So I did some reading, noticed that it said "external resistor required" on the coil and started tracing wires. I Found that the external ballast resistor had been bypassed. So I purchased a new ign. coil, and new ballast resistor and installed. Boat started an ran, but only had 1 hours to test. I am not confident this is a solution...

What I have Checked:
     I have attempted to follow the wiring system throughout the boat to ensure good connectivity an no major drops in voltage
     I have tested the battery with a load tester
     I have tested the alternator and confirmed a healthy 13.5-14 while engine on at the battery and throughout the system
     The boat has run 2 tanks of gas, so the gas that sat over the winter should be gone

What I have replaced:
     - Fuel Filter and Housing (as a part of wintirization last October)
     - Distributor Cap (likely unrelated, but it was time)
     - Battery (again, no issues with the other one, but a just eliminating items)
     - Dash Wiring (my local mechanic re-wired the dash switches so they all did not feed off the ignition)
     - Ignition Coil & Ballast Resistor (see "More Info on Scenario")

Side Notes: I have noticed that the volt meter on the dash never goes above 12.5 while engine is on. I have read this can be from corroded connections on the gages, etc. I am getting a ful 13.5 at the batter while engine running. This may/may not be related.

I greatly appreciate any thoughts/feedback on this one. I am stumped!