Gel Coat Prep

Trizact Hookit 3m pads. I stopped back over and looked at the name, should be available at most autobody supply shops. Velcro backed for use on the DA. Really just for the super fine work if your a perfectionist probably but supposedly the more you sand with fine grits the less work it is to polish out. Looks like the same thing pointed out above but 3m.

Next Correct Craft for you to restore and collect.


1954 correct craft

Michelle,
This may be what Sean is reffering too. Abralon hook and loop wet/dry pands They are available 180 through 4000 grit. I've used them with great success and after I recommended them to Bill (skibum) I seem to remember he used them.

I put them on my electric (plugged into a GFI) and then with a spray bottle of water in one hand and the sander in the other go at it! The water is hard on the bearing under the sanding pad but is easy to replace.

One big caution here is you must hard block wet sand first to flatten out the orange peel. Steve (62wood) mentioned to look for small shiny spots when leveling. Yes, these are the low spots in the orange peel. If you don't hard block first, then the soft sanding pad won't level and you'll still see the bumps and valleys of the orange peel. Hard block until you can barely see the shiny spots and then go to the Abralon.

Edit: Another caution - Do your outside corners by hand!

Looking good Michelle! There are some cool new products out there for final sand and buff too. We just finished my dune buggy and a corvette at the body shop next door. The final sanding was done with a special wet pad on an orbital sander then a 3 stage buffing compound. I forgot to ask Ron whose system it was, but given the fine 2000 (i believe) grit of the wet foam looking pad I think Im going to try it on the mustang gell this spring to brighten up the white before it hits the water. Left an incredable smooth finish on all surfaces but seems like an ideal way to finish large flat areas.

Gary,

I'm laughing now, but I wasn't laughing then! I had a few other minor issues. I wanted to be able to wake up and head right out to the garage. I went out to start the kerosene heater to knock the chill off. Someone used all the kerosene in the heater and didn't refill it. Of course I can't find the pump, so I use a plastic cup. I filled it up. The wick was left all the way up and it was dry because the heater had nothing in it. I wind the wick down, go to get my long lighter...can't find it. I wound the wick back up and I tried lighting it with a piece of rolled up paper, but every time I put it in, it would go out. At that point, I picked the heater up and carried it outside. I get my gel gun out and I've already looked at it without noticing there was not an attachment for the air hose. So, a trip to the hardware store was needed. By the time I was really ready, it was warm enough outside. It's the little things.

Gary,
That is a really nice gun, but I get a case of the "what if's". I liked having control over the MEKP because I knew how much I put in. Do you think it would gel up in the nozzle and clog?

Chelle'

Tim,
Thanks. I have a collection of different grits. I'll be aggressive, but not too aggressive.

Doug,
The way I was with the gel - I wasn't afraid because you can't really fear trying something that you don't know anything about and haven't tried before. I did the research and tried to learn everything I could, but you can overdo that too. As long as the gel is "tacky", you can spray over it again. There was enough time even when it "gelled" on the hull for me to coat again.
Boat Doc explained to me that the wax is what makes the final coat "air tight" so that it cures properly.
Chelle'

Michelle, looking VERY nice!!! Are you glad that you stuck with the yucatan now? I figure I better ask before you start sanding...

I agree with Pete on starting with a pretty agressive grit- I might even give 220 a shot to knock down that orange peel. Gel is much harder than paint, so you have to be aggressive!

Michelle I have been following your restoration and slowly acquiring the supplies to do mine. Just a question about guns. Now that you have sprayed yours would you have benefitted by the 8 quart gravity feed attachment(I have a shop compressor that can keep up) or is that to much product to handle at once.
Still love that colour!!!

sanity wrote: what was I doing the first time you met me?

I believe Blink had brought you to the ski club.
We were having a beer up in the pavilion and you were on the dock fishing. We were admiring your gathering skills. You were gutting fish with your bare hands and teeth. Blink looked at me and said she hunts too. I was like, dude, she's a keeper.......

Chelle,
Way to go !! Looks Kick-A$$... Can't wait to see the pics once sanded and buffed.. You're on your way. Nice job..

Moj'

Pete's rotary dial office phone takes a few days to process the "text" message.

62 wood wrote: Michelle, I "finish" my wet stick, about 4", and wrapped. That light "finger-touch" you get on the bottom to feel the curvature in an "x" pattern. Also, make as long of strokes as possible. I also like to hold the tip to let it swivel with the curves. You dont need a lot of force. I dont mean to bore you if you know this already.... Everyone probably has a little different technique... this works for me...

Steve,
Thanks for the sanding tips. Bottom first. That way no one will see if I screw up.
Michelle

Great job Michelle. How about a picture and more info on the gun you used? Check out these sanders- the waterbug 3 models under the heading water sanders and marine
http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/
not sure your compressor could keep up tho and I have seen them for around $250.

Michelle,
I "finish" my wet sanding (on car paint) with a paint stir stick, cut to about 4", and wrapped with 1000, 1200, ect, grit. That gives you a light "finger-touch". Altho you probably dont have to get that fine with the gel.

Like pete says, start on the bottom to get the feel for how its going to sand, keep the block parallel to the curvature of the hull, and sand in opposing 45 degree angles, making an "x" pattern. Also, make as long of strokes as possible.(ok Hollywood,jump in here!) I also like to hold the block towards the ends by my finger tips to let it swivel with the curves. You dont need to put a lot of force on the block... let the sandpaper do the work.

Occasionally dry the area and look for shiney spots...those are the "low" areas of the orange peel that still need sanding. When the hull is completely dull ,your there and ready for buffing.

I dont mean to bore you if you know this already....too many people just jump in and sand hap-hazardly. Everyone probably has a little different technique... this works for me...hope it will help?

Good Luck and keep the pics coming!