the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod

storm34 wrote: Mike/Pete, can you guys explain amine blush a little more? I've heard the term before and knew to wipe everything down if it cured but still a little lost as to what it actually is...

ammonium carbamate

It's made when CO2, the nitrogen compounds released by the resin, and atmospheric moisture react on the surface of your epoxy job.

Mike's right on for the description. I don't know exactly what it is but it's like a by product of the cure. Some brands of epoxy don't do it so there must be a chemistry difference. It is water soluble so a solvet wipe won't cut it.

Mike/Pete, can you guys explain amine blush a little more? I've heard the term before and knew to wipe everything down if it cured but still a little lost as to what it actually is...

Looks great Mike. We'll be doing the same thing come spring on the Barracuda and will be using this as a guide. I'm really interested in how you are going to apply the different types of cloth and exactly what they are.

looking good! I am watching your progress. Just got my motor out today.

Joe,    I measured the voids and they are roughly 6.75 x 8.75, I am figuring 3/4. I do have ply I can use, no big deal.

We got the stringers dry fit yesterday. After having the boat jacked up, and replacing the old stringers, there was a significant gap under the front half of the stringers. We compared new and old and they were about as exact as they could be. After going back and forth a couple times, we decided to drop the boat, and lift it slightly from the keel at about where the skeg is. This gave us a much better fit. There are still voids, but what I would expect now. We confirmed all of our measurements, and I like how they fit.
I got 3 coats of CPES on them. After the first coat I noticed we had failed to create drain channels, and to radius the tops of the primaries. Ooops.   Will do that tonight and get more CPES on those spots.
I have not drilled the hole for my cable block post yet, either, but as I had to move the one on the Mustang due to the newer style cable.

Mike, by '88 all of that was 3/4...in my boat anyway.

I gotta throw this in for anyone in the neighborhood; Sweetwater has some sweet fir ply that is the nicest ply I've worked with short of cabinet grade. It has very few voids, it's sanded nicely, and it drinks the CPES!

Keeganino wrote: Thanks pete. Is it true that the only difference between marine grade ply and external is the amount of voids between layers?

Yes

Keegan,
Most home centers will have small 2'x2' sheets of exterior ply. I suggest it because ply will give you the support needed in both directions due to it's alternating grain in each layer.

What would you replace the exhaust boards with? I really don't feel like paying for a big chunk of fir for two little squares. Is this foolish or is it ok to use some pine or whatever I have laying around.
I do have a fir 1x6, is this going to give me enough material with a 3 inch hole through the middle of it? It doesn't seem like there would be too much stress here.

I believe the rudder port piece is 3/8" plywood.

Tim, wanna send me a couple small squares of coosa? ha ha.

Alright, alright. I took out the rudder port entirely. It was half gone anyway.
We got all four stringers cut out, shaped, notched, and ready to dry fit tomorrow. My brother used an electric planar with an angle guide to shape the bottoms of the stringers. That took less time cutting the boards to height with a jigsaw.
We have the hull litfed and level. We are going to set the old stringers in to confirm measurements. Dry fit stringers, and then start CPESing them. Hope to have the two primaries bedded by the end of the week, because I am going out of town. Not sure if we will be able to do that or not...
One unfortunate observation I made was while cleaning the last bits of foam out around the exhaust I noticed a cavernous void on the inside glass lip of the starboard exhaust thru-hull. The wood is wasted to mush. All the way aruond the pipe. It is done for. I assume the other side is as well. Both will be coming out tomorrow as there is no way around this. I am still resisting the main transom board but will try to do a couple test holes tomorrow. If it is bad, it is coming out.

Hull is ground out. Took 4 solid hours. For the life of me I cannot get it as pretty as I have seen photos of on this site. I ground from 4 inches outside the outer stringer, all the way across to the other side. The bilge was gelled, that was a biatch to get off. I guess I could have ground more but did not want to remove any excess material from the structure. I used my trusty diamond wheel, and two 40 grit flap disks. What a mess. I love my respirator, goggles, and tyvek suit.

I left a ~1" lip of the old primary stringer channel and beveled it off for a smooth edge for filletting after the new stringers are installed. I ground two drain channels on each side for water relief from outbboard of the stringers.
I took the top glass cap off the rudder port and to my surprise the wood is in really good shape. Still rich colored and solid. In doing so I ended up taking the top layer of the ply off and it was a total bastard to chisel out flat. I am going to soak this in CPES a couple times, peanut butter sandwich a piece on top, and cap it back off. Even the port hole was solid with a pick in the sides of it.
The boat at some point took a fairly hard shot on the strut. There is a good sized crack on the inside that was bondoed over. This will be filled and I will lay a couple layers of heavy mat over and re-drill the holes.
I was going to drill into the transom but found no voids and am going to leave it for now. I can always go back and do that later. My goal at the moment is to get the stringers done and get it out of my shop.

My layup plan is:
bed the stringers and verify level, and measurements.
using 8.7 oz tape   2", then 4", then 6" on primaries
the 17 oz Knytex biaxial hull to hull over the stringer. (2x ?)

bed secondaries, and simply tape once using 4"

Not obviously skewed, it had a treated ply floor screwed and nailed down over the foam. Motor was way misaligned from the mounts starting to tear out. I did not give it the marble test. Took it for what it was. This boat was supposed to become a planter, and the more I looked at it, the more I liked it and wanted to resurrect her.

It will be fine.

TRBenj wrote: Mike, these boats were not precision built! I think as long as you get pretty close on the motor mount dimensions (height off hull, distance from the shaft log) so you can align it, you'll be just fine. Like Pete said, Id build to the larger one and shape from there.

I have all those measurements, and a million photos. I figure I don't really have a choice, anyway. She will go back together a hell of a lot better than she was.

Mike, these boats were not precision built! I think as long as you get pretty close on the motor mount dimensions (height off hull, distance from the shaft log) so you can align it, you'll be just fine. Like Pete said, Id build to the larger one and shape from there.