oil pressure sender

keep us updated with the outcome of your gauge...
mine is now working fine...

Update
so installed it, and test drive it... it worked ok... at first it was a little stiff mabe case it was out of service such a long time but then it started to move more evenly.. readind are 40 psi at idle and then around 60-70 while cruising depending throtlenow i have all my gauges working nicely...I need to replace the ligth bulbs from two of the gauges, do you know which kind to buy?
also to figure out the ground problem as when i turn on the navigation ligths some of the gauges start reading more than they should...
   

I would suspect that the wire got broke when the post was turned to free it up, 30-45 gauge wire breaks extremely easy but maybe you got luck.

Before you put it all back together get the ohm readings and make sure it's not shorted to the pole pieces as well if you get any continuity at all it's shorted. Basicly you want to measure across both ends of the wire for each coil, aka start and finish of the coil winding which you should have two seperate curcuits.

8122pbrainard wrote: The typical gauge has two coils in them creating the magnetic push-pull on the needle. Sounds like one of them is "open" meaning a break in the coil winding so with no current going though it, it won't create the proper magnetic field which pins the needle.

Seb,
Now you can go into the gauge repair business!! Hopefully it's as simple as this broken wire to the one coil. Since you've got some experience now ohming out the sender, get out the meter again and see if you can get some readings off the two coils in the gauge. I don't know what resistence you should get but at least you can check for continuity on your soldering job.

Tim
the hardest part is removing the black metal ring of the face. you have to do it carefully with a little flat hear screwdriver, try not to hurt the plastic bezel. when that off the iner white ring and glass are out. Then to remove the needle just pull it carefully until it pops off. the face its easy just unscrew the 2 screws that attaches it to the assy.
Then if you want to remove the mechanism out of the bezel, the Signal and positve terminals are kind of heat welded to the platic bezel so try moving them with a plier to release them. The ground just unbolt the little nut and you are set!!!

I went yesterday to pickup the unfixed gauge from this guy who was supposed to fix it...
I think he didn´t even took the job of openning the damn gauge!!! So I dissasemble it as my idea was to use the face and needle in a new gauge i was going to buy. But I think I found the problem, one of the coil wires was loose marked with the red arrow


So I welded it again... hope fix the thing....
Let you know the result when I set the bilge plug back in the boat...

As long as the gauge and sender are matched (it sounds like they are) then they should work fine together.

I would still lean towards the automotive gauge- Im not exactly sure how easily the VDO's can be disassembled. The bezel and face will look pretty out of place if you dont swap them! I would imagine that the automotive sender would be pretty cheap and locally available.

Summit had a better picture, but egauges sells both. Neither have the exact same face as the original, but the OL is closer (oil can symbol). The Cockpit White has the same bezel as original at least and would not require modification.

The second one is the ones we have on our boats is that right?
they are not at egauges?
i think they have them on both 240ohms-33 (is our case) and the automotive ones... but I migth be worng...
anyway I still have the harware from the old gauge so it can be switch...

Well I just talked to this guy and he can´t fix it.. apparently one of the coils is burned out....
i will pick it up and try luck at a marine parts store.....

But at least i know i can get one new from egauges... Tim did you contact this guys for the hour meter? is it real or is it just smoke?

Seb,
Well at least you now know it's the gauge! I'm glad to hear you have someone down there that can work on them.

The typical gauge has two coils in them creating the magnetic push-pull on the needle. Sounds like one of them is "open" meaning a break in the coil winding so with no current going though it, it won't create the proper magnetic field which pins the needle.

Don't forget to come back with the results. We'd like to hear about it.

Seb,
You did get this correct?

sender:

And not this one.

switch:

kapla wrote: how can I check if the sender is bad? I´m stuck here...

8122pbrainard wrote: Without the engine running (0 oil pressure) ohm out the sender to ground. You should get resistance. If close to 0 ohms, then ether the new sender is bad or you do have the wrong one. Most senders will have 240 ohms at 0 psi and 33.5 at max psi.

Zero oil pressure (engine not running) check for the 240 ohms. Engine running you should have about 1/2 the oil pressure the gauge reads or about 100 ohms.

kapla wrote: didn´t get the chance to do that.. but that was also the idea of my mechanic friend, to check resistance at the wire... Maybe that was the problem and not the sender.... The gauge pegs out in the moment you hook the wire to the sender with the key on contact position, w/o the engine runing.. so I guess the ground issue is a possible culprit.

As soon as you connect the wire to the sender? It shouldn't peg the gauge unless you do have the wrong sender. Without the engine running (0 oil pressure) ohm out the sender to ground. You should get resistance. If close to 0 ohms, then ether the new sender is bad or you do have the wrong one.

Most senders will have 240 ohms at 0 psi and 33.5 at max psi. You can even go to the electronics supply and get some 1/4 watt resistors within this range and put them in place of the sender to check your gauge.

Edit: If you use a 100ohm resistor and the gauge is ok, then it should read about half of it's psi range.