V-drive 2001 SN

FYI, he didn't changed anything. The engine and transmission was placed so it will used the original shaft location. The only thing that was added was a dripless shaft seal. Most of the construction is documented at the2001.com.

Thank you Dip, that is a heck of a compliment. I love that show

F&F, just to give you an idea, my fuel tank is just under 30 gallons and runs from about 1 foot in front of the v drive up to about the dash board.

If you can get another 50 gallons of water from the dash board forward hidden under the floor go for it.   Remeber you've got ballast pumps/fuel hose/ ballast hose/ electrical/steering/throttle etc... that all needs to get routed under the floors too.

You look like you have a great shop setup for this kind of thing. After youre done glassing the stringers in, test fit the motor/tranny/vdrve/shaft.    It will give you a much better idea where you need to put everything.   You will probably need to compromise some of your ideas just so everything works properly and fits in neatly.

Wakeboarding is the main focal point of our boat and space is our main issue.We ride heavy and as a family so ballast and storage layout are very important.From my ruff calculations I can fit 25 gallons of fuel and 50 gallons water under the center up into the bow without compromising flooring.If I raise the floor a few inches under the bow it should allow enough ballast to compensate the rear lockers and still have room for life jackets and what not.
For seating we will probably stick with the wrap around and gain a little storage under the seats.

About the porposing I wouldn't worry about it to much,I have owned half a dozen wakeboats and they all porpose to some degree.Thats why almost all new ones come with wakeplates.

The boat porpoises with ballast completely empty at around 35-36 with a slight very gentle bounce then get worse from there as you go faster.

I wouldnt put any infloor ballast. the amount of space in your floor is minimal, the amountof work and $$ involved wouldnt pay off for what you get. Plus if somethign goes wrong and you get a clog or something youd have to tear the floor up.   If you are desperate for more weight if make some openable hatches and throw lead under the floor. -jmho


s far as porpoising when ballast is full. When i have ballast int eh boat i never go close to full speed. Max is 22-24 for wake boarding. Now, you can easilly fit more ballast in teh back of the boat even with the engine taking up room back ther ethen you can fit int eh nose.   So with ballast full it would make the porpoising problem worse. When i wakeboard i seriously didnt need to put much weight in the boat. the wake is already jacked up from stock with the difference in weighting position due to engine move.   Max i would add ~ 400 pounds to the rear bags and then try and balance that with filling the nose.   

What is your plan as far as ballast setup, seating, fuel tank? what do you use the boat for? Wakeboarding or surfing or a combo? Which one do you do more of?

Luchog, sorry i havent replied to your questions. I copied them form the other thread and will answer here.

Do you have any pics of your boat running? did it end up too bow high?
What prop did you finally put on? and what kind of performance are you getting out of it?
Does it porpoise at high speeds? if so where at?
Did you consider a different route for the exhaust pipes avoiding the U bend?

I do have pictures of the boat running including wake pictures, and a ton of pictures of us surfing. I will do my best to post this week.

My prop is an Acme 650 4 blade.

I get some porpoising over 35mph. Im going to put an adjustable wake plate on over the winter to help shape my surfwake and should eliminate porpoising at higher speeds.

I dont see how i could route the exhaust any other way.   If the risers were flipped around there would be no room for the exhaust. I didnt notice any negative effects from adding the extra 90 degree elbow and making a U.

Luchog wrote: I'll bring this back to life as there's other 2001 being converted to Vdrive.

Do tell.!

Details.?

I'll bring this back to life as there's other 2001 being converted to Vdrive.

Could a composite constrution SN be converted to V drive.?

Ok Yeah... That's Awesome!

I'm not a big fan of V-Drives in general & i can't say I'd do that, but I love that the guy did it & did it well. It looks clean & classic. I love the engine hatch. Very Nicely done!

Nate

Looks like he has created some maintenance issues trying to get the motor as far back as possible. My Excel has a giant Invertaflow between the engine and the transom, so it is almost as easy to get around everything on the front of the motor as a DD. Bad thing is it costs me some interior space.

The plumbing doesn't look good either, raw water strainer on one side, and the transmission cooler on the other. I'd like to see the other side to see how that works.

I had a 82 CC Riviera V-Drive with a Chevrolet PCM. The risers were on backwards and went thru 2 90deg elbows with a 8in metal tube between, then into a heavy metal muffler about 14in long X 6in dia then thru the transom. And yes, it was a S.O.B. to work on the water pump, alternator, or belts. I had to remove the rear seat and battery and lay beside the engine so I could see what I was doing.

skimzone you better do this on a 2001 hull, since the older SN hull were quite narrower and I dont think it could end up well.

Dammit Man!!! I am going to re-think my whole boat build now!! That is Freakin sweet!!! Its like an old barrel back or utility and modern ski hit each other and- here's what happened. I've got a couple junk v-drives layn around- HMMMMMMMMMM, wonder what it would cost. I wish there were some pics of the foward engine compartment work- I would like to see the joint behind the seat. Dam nice lookin.

Do yall know if he put the swimdeck back on?

You'd still need the same bends no matter which way the risers face. If you turned them around, there would be no room for mufflers.