Distributor

I've all ready ordered the mallory unit. The MSD listed is not marine anyway, it says it is but if it was it would have a 6 on the end and be 5 digits not four. All ready looked into MSD which was my first choice but they only make a chevy and clevland versions unless they have released a 351W in the last two weeks.

Leave them alone.

if your going to slap the holley down on an edlebrock performer 2181 or rpm, you will need the adaptor plate to seal up the bottom of the holley. skidim and the local auto parts will have one.

do you have the carb base with the pvc port?

I am assumeing you are speaking about the flaps on the end of the exhaust when siting in the water. They are to keep the water from backing up the pipes. Some of the older boats used manifolds that were lower than the stringers and would and did siphon up water and put it in the engine.

79 , are you going to use a stiffer dampner plate? are we having fun yet?

You guys are hard core speed freaks, Which fits right in with me. Tryan I'm a little confused on the flapper's. Currently I have the hinged area of the flapper horizontal, parralel to the deck. Do I need to rotate them or add screws to the inside to keep it closed? (CL of boat)so that it opens to the outside of the haul. I'm assuming the 4160 is a 600cfm carb and my dad say's there is no power valve to jack with. He rebuilt it last season and said read just the idle mixture screws and then get a plug check after running it a 1/2 hour. My dad said not to worry about the carb being 600 verses a 650, I would loose a little power but not enough to worry about.

Oh by the way the long block got delivered yesterday. Thought I was going to be able to uncover the boat and pull the seats and motor box cover and get it ready to take it in to the shop but it snowed again last night after the rain had washed away all the old snow away.

Well the dist and new coil won't be in for a couple of weeks anyway. I guest my MSD blaster II coil burns up the ignition module in the dist I'm using so I have to get a mallory promaster series to use. Any one nees a Blaster II coil?

Bill, Thanks.
Couple of questions. When you say "the water wants to be a couple of feet from the transom...", are you referring to the where the spray starts to angle up from the chine where it breaks the water surface under full power? If so, this boat is falling way short of the mark, as it's probably closer to 4-5'. It's got enough of a bow-down attitude that you can't make this boat porpoise at full speed unless you have at least two full size adults in the rear seat. I'll just close the book on this hull and be happy with the decent speed it runs now, except to at least look at the prop positioning relative to the strut and hull bottom, where I know I'm not quite up to the spec's you mentioned in both respects.

As for adding speed to the '61-'69 vintage Nautiques, which I think is a more feasible and easier target, is that the wooden spray rail you were referring to removing, (or not replacing)? The Mustangs didn't have them as an add-on fortunately. I've got the orange '67 SN project shown in the diaries with the spray rails currently removed. But it sure can be a wet ride without it at idle speeds. However, if its worth a couple MPH, I can live with a little water in the face, plus replacing them won't be the funnest chore anyway, as opposed to just patching the holes.

Also I noticed, and this is totally personal taste, or lack thereof, that this original vintage SN hull doesn't look totally ridiculous or incomplete with the windshield left off, as there's no obvious raised decking screaming "missing winshield". I wouldn't dare consider this on any other CC hulls. (I can already see the raised eyebrows of the purests). I've got the nice two-piece plexiglass windshield with this one, but it was sorta neat taking a few rides without it and having some wind in your face, plus my wife wants to hear nothing of a Jersey Speed Skiff. There was a young man at the FLA reunion a few years back who restored a bright yellow and white SN like this which was rather retro and really sharp. Maybe someone saw it.

Nope, not yet, but the 413 Mopar marine is making its way east. I guess you picked up on my 400hp comment.    

Bill,
My 16' Mustang turns the 12x14 5200 and tops out easily at 56 mph. With an increase in HP which I feel is similar to what BC is looking for, +/- 70 HP, I picked up roughly 10 mph top speed which I'm definitely satisfied with, but the biggest difference is in the pull, throttle response and acceleration to top speed. If you could give me a call sometime, I'd like to pick your brain on the nitrous.
I've given up on making the old-style Mustang run any faster, as it's a borderline dangerous submarine now, but I'd still like to push an older Nautique closer to the limit. The pre-1970's Nautiques we have, virtually possess no hook in the hull, ride bow high, and thus do run quick with minimal HP, (46-48 with 318/210HP Chry). I'd like to see one of these boats with 400+HP. Please don't tell me to get a race boat. That's too practical.

So what speed ReidP does that boat run? 52X14 or 15

BC,
I've got most of the same modifications on a 302 engine including moderate head work. From test and trial on mine, I picked up +/- 700-800 rpm spinning the original 12x14 prop on a 16 footer with the engine enhancements. This increase was from 4400 to 51-5200 rpm. Testing with a higher pitch prop (12x15) lowered the rpm slightly and resulted in the practically the same top speed, but slowed slightly out of the hole. Since you were only turning 42-4400 max before, I'd be willing to bet that you'll receive your best performance all around with that same original prop, and probably ending up in the 5-5200 rpm range which definitely isn't too high considering those engine modifications. Keep us posted.     

I really don't know it a long block from Jasper engines and transmission. I would assume it is stock rocker arms.

I guess I will have to read the instructions for the distributor for proper install.

SS-102 & tryan here are the engine specs 305-315HP, 5500 max RPM, custom grind from comp cams at .050" tappet lift
duration
218 int
224 exhaust

lift
.476 int
.481 exhaust

112 lobe seperation

needs a 650 cfm carb and I'll have to play with the jets.

Jasper is doing the engine and I won't have access to the dyno. I think I can find out what carb and jetting they use when they run it. All class II engines are ran on the dyno and I will ask if the grind their own or buy the cam from someone.
From what I've read and talking with jasper they use the same intake and stock carb for that year engine when they run it. I'll call and get the lift and dur. and see what I can found out about the carb and jetting. I left the carb work to my dad so I'll have him dial it in when it's all said and done. He's an ASE MASTER TECH for gas and desiel so I think he might be able to help. I know for sure he can put a rochester together in is sleep. I was a smart ass when I was younger and on my first car we rebuilt the motor and carb got it running didn't have a four gas analizer at the time, het got one a month later made him hook my car up to it and we could not adjust the carb to improve upon what he already had it set. I quite questioning him after that.

i would get a pile of jets when shes hooked up to the dyno and get the preliminary jetting dialed in. if you have time before it's done, you might buy one of those adjustable metering blocks. if it's raining money, somebody might slip a 650 or 750 cfm double pumper under your pillow.

if you cam it, they will come.

(vacumme activated secondary 4160 might piss you off if the cam is big. putting a screw in the secondary linkage will give you a flat spot.)

power vavle is suppose to be 2 inches or so below minimum vac at wot. i would say you have a 7 or 7.5. i would pick up a 5 for the dyno run.

cfm is diplacement x rpm x volumeteric efficiency.