more alignment

Well, I finally got to take it out on its trial run. No vibrations or leaks! Very smooth ride. I can't thank you guys enough for your help. My friend who is my designated driver for the boat took control, and said he has never felt it run better in the two years I've had it. Pretty amazing that you guys can talk someone, with very little knowledge, through these fixes. Thanks again.

Well, I got the strut aligned with the through hull, then aligned the engine and had .000 gap all around! The shaft spins great. I then removed the strut to apply 5200 and found some stress cracks. I drilled them out, and am going to seal them. I didn't tighten the bolts that much either. They were just snug. Do you guys think more will come? Any ideas how to avoid more or fix the problem??? Thanks!

Thanks guys, I will continue with the original plan starting with the strut, and work with the engine after that.

Eric, the way it is spinning freely now, compared to the old strut and shaft, I think that goal will be met!   

When I bought the boat, I talked to an inboard repair shop and they were telling me as long as there is no vibration, and it will spin at all, its good. Maybe I should reconsider any advice they give me! Anyway, I appreciate all your help.

dsla wrote: No, that was with the old bushing and alignment. It took two hands to spin the prop. That is what made me look into all this. edit: the picture of the strut is the old set up. The height adjuster pic is where it was originally. With the new bushing and the strut aligned so the shaft is centered on the through hull, appears it may have to go higher. So, thats why I am a little concerned.

8122pbrainard wrote: Dan, Looks like you will need two alignments! The hull hole/log looks good but yes, the strut needs to be shimmed. Stainless washers between the base and hull at the aft two bolts should do it. Don't forget the 5200 or 4200! Then you'll go up front and do the engine matching it up to the shaft.

Strut first to the shaft log/packing gland then the engine to the shaft.

so was the picture with the new bushing installed?

by dropping the motor down it's going to raise the rear of the shaft since it will pivot about the thru hull stuffing box. Those mounts should only be about 1/4 of the way up from the lowest position. Currently it's way to high and out of wack so it's useless trying to shim the strut, replace the bushings in the strut, drop the engine and then work on the alignment issue.

Also since the bushing is worn it looks like it's not centered in the strut so it' needs replaced.

you still can maintain good alignment by bringing that side down and the other side up...your definitely overlooking something

Dan,
I don't know why you've run out of adjustment on the mounts but instead of running it past the normal point, add a 1/4" aluminum plate under the mount.

I'd go with the 5200 over the Boatlife polysulfide. Better sealing and better adhesion.

I finally got around to this project. I got the prop shaft out and took it down to Cecil at Elbert's. He put it on v blocks and the shaft was .005 out of tolerance between the strut and the transmission coupling. Aft of the strut it was .022, so I ended up buying an A.R.E. double taper shaft. Think its worth it to straighten this shaft and using it as a back up? If not, anyone looking for a coupling?

The strut was definitely misaligned.   I am currently fine tuning that right now. I have both boat life's life seal and 3M 5200. Is one a better seal for this application, or doesn't it really matter? I'm not sure if I want to be cursing myself out while drinking a 12 pack if this ever needs to be removed again! Also, it appears that my front height adjustment on the engine is almost maxxed out. Can the top retaining nut be above slightly above the threads? I am trying to post a pic but am having trouble shrinking it. I will post when I get to my other computer.

Thanks for your help, it is greatly appreciated!

Dan,
Looks like you will need two alignments! The hull hole/log looks good but yes, the strut needs to be shimmed. Stainless washers between the base and hull at the aft two bolts should do it. Don't forget the 5200 or 4200! Then you'll go up front and do the engine matching it up to the shaft.

You really shouldn't have a issues with the hull being a 96. I wonder if the bad strut alignment came from the factory that way??? Laser alignment tool at the factory?? Marketing BS!!!!

Thanks for the reply's everyone. I appreciate the help. I have a few pictures and some questions.

Here is the misalignment


Here is the strut




Here is the through-hull




Here is the full view


Now the questions...
1) Where the shaft goes through the strut, it is obviously at an angle, but does the through-hull look like it is centered well enough top to bottom? Does it appear that I may have to shim the strut?

2) It appears from the strut and through-hull that it is aligned left to right properly, am I correct?

FWIW, I ended up ordering an OJ. Had a couple questions about the install and called a fellow named Tim at OJ. Super helpful and just a nice guy in general. Here it is, not totally done in this pic, but something to look at anyway.

Up to you where you buy it, but you get a 10% discount and no tax at Skidim.

dripless seals are maintanance free, set em and forget em, all the high end boats use dripless, nice option...btw, they dont drip at all.
alot of manufacturers use them because alot of times because of the placement of the log thaty area doesnt get alot of water and the old stuffing box will run hot. with the dripless you have a constant water supply

I can't see any advantage to the old style wax packing material (vs. Gore-tex) except you could save like $3. The gore-tex works very well for me, I might have 12 oz. of water in the bilge from an afternoon of boarding.

Thanks guys, I will dig deeper and hopefully find where the issue is.   I really appreciate the help. I am sure I will have many more questions in the coming days. Since I am going to replace the shaft & packing gland, would it be wise to put dripless packing in, or is the original wax better?