the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod

Pete-

Keeganino wrote: The first time they told me that the hull number I gave them was too long, so I sent them a picture and they said they could not find anything on that number.

Thanks BKH- I knew I had seen the formula on CCF before

CTC - Correct Craft
03535 - Serial number
0573 - Date of Certification May 73

SKMs -? I believe represents Skier Model.

BKH

I emailed and then followed up every couple months.

I agree and was kind of joking, but did you submit a request once and they responded 6 months later or did you touch base once a month or so and they finally came through?

Did you have to keep asking or did they just one day pop up and say "hey we found it"? I don't want to pester them, but will if thats what it takes.

Happy Birthday to The Norwegian Crusher! Have contacted Correct Craft twice now for a born date/build sheet.   The first time they told me that the hull number I gave them was too long, so I sent them a picture and they said they could not find anything on that number. Any suggestions on obtaining that information?

Pete,

I do remember that now that you mention it. My drains were good, it is the notches that were a PITA.

The last couple nights I finished covering the mains with the first course of biax. I also layed biax on the exhaust plates, rudder mount, and up to the aft part of the log area where I had a crack I repaired. I got a bit ahead of myself last night and consequently left my shop a tad early and had a couple of bubbles appear that pissed me off when I saw them this evening. Tonight I spent grinding out the longitudinal notches and drains in the mains. This saved me time on the front side laying the glass, but it takes a bit of time to clean up, too. It is still better for the notches in that you would have to grind them a bit anyway, but they created a few bubbles, so I would cut a small hole next time, not just slice into the to relieve the air. I think the drains are definitely better as I could shine a flashlight though them and shape them pretty easily. I measured the thickness of the pieces I cut out. Where I double layered the biax in the engine and trans mount areas it is a tall 1/8". The sections on front and to the rear of the mounts it is 1/16". I am still debating the additional layer from the top of the stringers down. I still have the section at the rear to layup where I extended the height for the fuel tank mounts.
I am not sure if I would do the notches again or use wedge type supports. Both have their positives and negatives, but cutting out the glass tonight got me at least thinking about it. I would also radius my top edges better than I did as it would decrease some of the work keeping air bubbles out.
I hope to get done with what I want to accomplish in this phase by this weekend.

I agree with Mike- 5 gallons wont cut it, even on a 16' boat. There is very little difference in size between the 1st Gen SN and the Skier/Tique. I wouldnt guess it will take more than 10, but probably closer to 10 than 5.

As John Lennon said- "Whatever gets you through the night is all right...   all right".   

Trying to gauge the amount of epoxy needed. Your boat has a few feet on mine so hopefully I can get by with 5 gallons. Bubble gum and duct tape would be about as good as some of the glass work in my boat! I have yet to see an iceburg in our coal plant heated lake LOL.

WakeSlayer wrote: I have gone through right around 5 gallons. Have more coming, but not until Wednesday. I would guess two more gallons to finish the stringers, and hopefully, the remaining three will get me through the longitudinals, and the floor. I will be pissed if I need more at the end.

Yes but you're building the "Scandinavian ice breaker/ski boat"!!!! Pretty soon you'l need to change the title of this thread!

Nice clean work Mike! I have heard that biax just drinks epoxy. You have probably already said several times in the post but how much epoxy have you gone through so far? Or what did you start with?

Pete - What would be cool if an engineering student could model a hull/stringers & run a computer stress analysis on it. Then we would have data to figure out how many layers of glass is needed. Sounds like great research project for a Grad student!

Bruce,
I feel you have a valid point on the amount/layers of glass some use on a stringer job however we know the factory's wasn't the greatest. Also, with the factory resin splatter "decorative" coating it does give the impression of a heavier glass job. We all strive for a better than factory job so some have ended up pretty heavy on the glass!!

With the bonding at the hull I don't feel more than 3 layers are needed especially when the stringers are bedded/bonded. Another layer is just adding weight but really not that much.

Over the top I sure wouldn't want to see less that 2. One layer isn't enough and there's a good possibility for it to crack. A third layer under engine mounts is then best. That's were the stringer is going to see lots of stress plus the compression of bolting into the wood.

The above really gets complicated when you mix in the use of biax or roving and the layer quantity is based on using cloth.

The whole restringer job is based on both water proofing and strength. Just a CPES and epoxy coat isn't going to do the waterproofing job needed. I mentioned above about the "West bottom" jobs on wood that failed. Without any glass, small cracks show up is the resin due to stress of wood movement and that's where the water gets in.

Yes the early wood factory stringers seemed to hold up with just the glass to the hull. The Tahoe in the other thread is a good example but take a look at the stringer height. Looks taller than later wood? I believe the wood height was doing all the work with strength and very little of the glass fillet.

Your correct - these are from my wood boat.