Winterization Anomolies

92ccc wrote: The three month interval comes from the automotive industry with the reasoning that if it takes you more than three months to accumulate 3000 miles you are a short trip driver and should change oil by time instead of miles.This defenitely applies to carbureted engines more so than fuel injected engines due to the choke and running richer on cold start ups.

Good info, for years Ive wondered what it was about exposing oil to aironce it left the can that made it go bad.

storm34 wrote: Does it cause any problems leaving the boat open over night? Would the open air in the oil chamber cause any corosion problems?

No this will not create any problems. The crankcase is always vented to the atmosphere, that is part of the job of the PCV system along with venting blow-by gases back to the combustion chamber. Without the ventilation, condensation would build up in the crankcase as would pressure from blow-by past the rings.

The three month interval comes from the automotive industry with the reasoning that if it takes you more than three months to accumulate 3000 miles you are a short trip driver and should change oil by time instead of miles.This defenitely applies to carbureted engines more so than fuel injected engines due to the choke and running richer on cold start ups.

Mike-

We always get it out on the lake, make sure everything is going well then change it again.

My grandfather was a mechanic and helped rebuild my dad's 74 skier with him. It was what he recomended and we've done it since. I figure it can't hurt and with the high hours our 88 had we took every precaution!

WakeSlayer wrote: Chris, You change the new oil in the spring with no hours since?

Ya thats what ive been doing for no other reason then Ive always heard oil has to be changed at three months regardless of miles or hours . what do you think ?

Chris,

You change the new oil in the spring with no hours since?

skutsch wrote: Now I suppose that will open up the debate on whether it is best to change before winter or at the start of summer...

Probably not! Its commonly agreed upon that it should be changed at the end of the season so that the block doesnt sit all winter with the old, acidic oil in it.

Why do you drain the oil for winterizing ?

WakeSlayer wrote: Tim, I always used the drain kit on my 90 and my 92. For some reason, the Python just doesn't want to give up the oil.

You removed the oil fill cap while draining?

I made up brass fitting from hose bib to I believe 3/8ths pipe.This I connect to a Little Giant impellor pump.Drains oil in about 3 minutes.

Munday

My drain kit is far too slow in my SAN, I just pump it out, too.    It would take a month to drain it. I gave up.

WakeSlayer wrote: The hose that is tied up is for your oil drain. You run that out your plug in the hull to an drain pan.

But not when the boat is in the water!! LOL!!

Started thinking about winterizing, not going to start yet, cause I want to get a few more pulls in but have started thinking about it. So I have always winterized my Dad's 64 Nautique. That one is really straight forward, change the oil drain the block (using the installed by correct craft petcocks) and thats basically it.

So the 98 Sport appears to be a radically different beast. I went through and read all the "Winterization" threads and then started referencing the Pictures TR Benj posted (Thanks those were awesome), and I came up with a few anomolies.

First off the Manifold drain plugs were pretty straightforward, bigger then I expected but still easy to find.

Port Manifold Drain plug

Starboard Manifold Drain plug


My Block drains appear to being used for the shower
Port Engine Block Drain

And maybe the heater???
Starboard Engine Block Drain


And then the really wierd thing was this unknown hose that is tied up at the top of the front of the engine that looks like this:


And terminates at what I believe to be the bottom of the transmission


So I am wondering, has this engine been set up with the hose mentioned above to be purged with air? If you remove the plug on the hose and blow compressed air through would that purge the system of water? Any thoughts on what I have here?