Need help w/ winterizing

Marty,
If you simply use a plug, I recommend using brass ones too. So many have problems getting steel plugs out. BTW, even glavanized fittings can be the problem - the threads aren't coated!!

Riley wrote: I like plain old brass plugs a lot better than stopcocks or petcocks or whatever. They open up better and are easier to probe.

I agree with that Bruce only because I only do it once a year. For a guy that uses his boat late in the season or lives in a location where they may not winterize at all and wants to drain it after each use the stop cocks are easier.

MartyMabe wrote: Pete, The plugs in the exhaust manifolds of my 93 SN (351) are, what :steel or galvanized? Either way what would you recommend putting back in there?

8122pbrainard wrote: stopcocks at McMaster They are available in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 pipe sizes. If you have the 3/4" plugs in your manifolds, you'll need a 3/4 x 3/8 hex brass reducing bushings too.

lonestar wrote: Pete: What do you think of those brass drain valves that skidim sells {quick drains} for the block, mani, etc ?

Chris,
For the most part I feel Skidim sells a good product line but with the drain kit they have, someone must have been smoking something to come up with it!! Small passages and no way to probe for sediment.

This pet cock I've posted before and is the one I have on all my boats. Unlike the cheap "radiator" drains, the center stem is removable so yo can easily get a wire through them. Merc even uses them on some of their inboards and I/O's.



stopcocks at McMaster

They are available in 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8 pipe sizes. If you have the 3/4" plugs in your manifolds, you'll need a 3/4 x 3/8 hex brass reducing bushings too.

Eric's idea of using ball valves isn't bad ether but with them it looks like overkill to me. Too big and bulky.

Pete: What do you think of those brass drain valves that skidim sells {quick drains} for the block, mani, etc ?

Last year I just ran the antifreeze down the hoses and let gravity do
its thing.

So as long as I pull the plug and let it drain, I shouldn't have a problem? No need for flushing the block? But now I'm worried that like you said there could be sediment build-up. So now I will probe a little and see what happens.

As far as the problem I was having -
The boat would start and run fine for an hour or two. But after stopping
and sitting for a length of time, it wouldn't start up again. I had it happen twice this past summer. After the first time it happened I took it to the "DING DONG" in Wilmington for him to tell me that I just needed a tune up. Plus he tried to tell me that I had the original spark plugs (which is total b.s.). I really hesitated about taking it there but I was thinking that was my only option at that point. I figured there was a bigger issue than just a tune up. Now I know better. Lesson learned! So after it happened to me again, I made a call down the guys at N3 Boatworks and they were very helpful and knew exactly what was going on. They sent me a low volume/pressure fuel pump and I switched it out myself. So far so good!
I wonder if the "DING DONGS" really did anything I asked them to do.   
I want my money back !
Another story of how you get treated "right" at the dealer.     

already drained everything and i had no problem with that
side. the water came out fine. i guess i will try cleaning it
out. thanks!

"You don't need to flush."
i was always told to drain and flush but there was never a need
to fill up with up antifreeze because there was always the chance
that the antifreeze could freeze

have a 97 ski nautique 196 - 351 pro boss
having trouble getting the passenger side of the engine block to flush
got everything else i believe
any suggestions?
help