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85 2001 Renovation

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    Posted: May-13-2010 at 3:19am
akabulla is right. I noticed right away that the battery box is too far aft. Someone's been in there ahead of you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote malibud Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-12-2010 at 3:04pm
I have an 85 2001 and need a prop shaft mine is bent 35/1000 I would be interested in yours (assumming it is straight) if you still want to sell it. I took mine to a machine shop and they checked it. maybe we can work something out. just let me know .
thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-09-2010 at 6:49pm
The 1993 boat has a different steering shaft. It has 19 splines rather than the tapered key. Anyone know what this shaft type is called? I think I might buy the adapter for it and put this new steering wheel on there anyway. It's a Momo marine wheel that appears to be mahogany. It didn't look right on the 85, but it looked great on the 93 with the contoured dash and everything.

Also, do you think one of these generic Grant wheels will fit on the hub that comes with the 85 Nautique without needing an adapter? Something like this is what I was thinking: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRT-415/ After looking at some of their products I'm pretty sure the wheel that was on the boat when I bought it is a Grant, but it is done...Rust on the spokes and the handle is wrapped with electrical tape. Looks like junk.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2010 at 10:42am
What's still on the helm shaft is part of the wheel. It's just the center hub and not a adapter. Some hubs are part of the wheel and some will unbolt from the spokes like yours.

The hub will pull off with a plate type puller. It's on a taper just like a prop. You'll probably find a "Woodruff" key (half round) set in the shaft and the reason you can't see it now.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:50pm
I didn't see the key, but is it something I need to remove first or do I just pull it off?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:47pm
It is from the factory and it is just pressed on with the key holding it in. You should be able to pull it straight out and it will come off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2010 at 8:38pm
Thx Kapla.



Is this chrome piece a steering wheel adapter? Did it come from the factory or is this an aftermarket piece? Is it just pressed on? I want to make sure I won't mess anything up before I put a steering wheel puller on it and start cranking.

I picked up a nice Momo Marine wooden wheel from eBay with what looks like the correct adapter. I hope it fits, but for the price I got it I can buy a new adapter.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2010 at 5:04pm
throtle know I´m positive it will fit the same...about the wheel no clue...
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-26-2010 at 12:36pm
^ Still interested in an answer to that question if anyone has one.

Also, the boat came with an extra used prop shaft that I'd like to sell in the classifieds. Any idea what it's worth?

The previous owner had some vibration so he sent the prop for balancing/repair. That didn't fix it so he replaced the prop shaft, coupling, supports, and bushings. Still didn't fix it, so he just lived with it. Then he nailed something that destroyed the prop. He put on a new prop and the vibration was gone. Presumably, this spare prop shaft is fine, but I'd give the new owner 30 days to install it, test it, and return it if it's no good. Not trying to burn anybody.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-25-2010 at 1:56pm
Does anyone know if the steering wheel from my 1993 Excel will fit the 85 Ski Nautique? The Excel is almost two hours away right now so I can't just pop it off and check it. I might move the steering wheel from that boat to the 85 and put the nice new one on the Excel instead.

What about the throttle knob?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 4:44pm
Originally posted by akabulla akabulla wrote:

Ha kapla! We are spending to much time on this site together next we will be finishing each others .....


ccf its addictive
<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 4:26pm
Sounds like the "deluxe" interior. Do you have the actual seats or just the skins? This boat has the really basic interior with no corner pad and no bolstering in the seats, so I don't think just skins would work.

What color and what condition are they in? Where are you located?




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pgaboeing Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 1:55pm
LKG, I have interior out of a 92ski if you are interested. Drivers Seat, Seat Base, Observes Seat, Seat Base, Swing arm assembley for observers base, Corner bolster, and side combing pads. Motor Box also.

Make Me a respectable offer and Its all yours.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 1:26pm
Just for discussion sake, you ain't getting anywhere near half done in a week. It just isn't possible. It is easily 150 hours, more like 200 if you have never been in there before.
Mike N

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 12:36am
Quote BTW you might rebuild the floor and strings for 2K but it would probably take about a month to do it.   I worked on mine every night and weekend (sometime during the weekday) and it took me about 1.5 months.


Yeah, you're probably right. I was just thinking a week of working full time on it, but even that is probably being a little too optimistic.

Send me a message if you're coming to Lake Gaston this summer. I'm usually tied up at an island near Eaton Ferry with a handful of other wake boats during the day. I'll put my e-mail address in my profile.

I'll probably take it for a spin at Falls Lake in about a month when I get it all back together if you want to check it out.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:55pm
Ha kapla! We are spending to much time on this site together next we will be finishing each others .....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:53pm
you are watching too much "my name is earl" LOL...
One full week for a full stringer job? I'd say at least one month in the minimun...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:52pm
Looks good to me! Should hold up for a while.

BTW you might rebuild the floor and strings for 2K but it would probably take about a month to do it.   I worked on mine every night and weekend (sometime during the weekday) and it took me about 1.5 months.

Good job! Next time I am up at Gaston I will shoot you a message!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:28pm
Alright guys...Made some progress this past weekend.

Cut out the bad section with an angle grinder...


Made a two layer brace for the floor. Bottom layer is made of two 2" wide 3/8" thick steel bars. Stacked on top are two more 1.5" wide 1/4" thick steel plates. Since there is no lateral pressure I used liquid nails to hold it together rather than welding. This combo was almost exactly the same height as the ski boom cradle. Painted them with industrial red enamel to keep the rust to a minimum. It slid right under the floor and rests on top of the stringers.


Cut a piece of plywood to shape. Went with one piece to cover the floor section and the cradle. It had a separate piece of wood over the cradle from the factory. Made a cardboard template first and then transferred it onto the board.


Fiberglassed over it bringing the edge of the fiberglass over the battery box. This made the battery box cover a super tight fit, but it should keep water from penetrating that edge again anytime soon.


Grinded down the high spots in the fiberglass. Sealed the rest of the battery box/fiberglass edges with 3M marine sealant.



Lessons learned...
The stringers in the small section that I could see were in good shape. They were a little slimy from staying wet for a while, but I was pleased that they did not seem to have any rot.

The floor has zero spongy spots now. I can walk the whole boat bouncing up and down and the whole thing feels great.

I re-carpeted the gunwales and floor using "Midnight Marine" carpet from Lowes. Bought 31', but found out after the fact that I could have gotten away with about 27'.

The whole job took a weekend, but I ran out of light on Sunday and have a few things to finish later. At least half of Saturday was wasted on trips to Lowes and Home Depot after I had trouble finding a store that had enough carpet on hand. I also still have to put in the rubber trim piece for the carpet and re-carpet the transmission cover and wood piece behind the back seat. I expect it to take one more full day to complete (including putting the interior back in.)


I'll have to figure up the total cost later, but it will look something like this:
- Steel plate bars - Lowes...$45.
- Fiberglass mat + resin - Home Depot...$20
- 3M marine sealant - Home Depot...$7
- 31' of carpet - Lowes...$156
- 4 Gallons of outdoor carpet glue - Home Depot...$34
- Trowel - $8
- Replacement SS screws, nuts, bolts, etc - Lowes...$14

This is not a permanent solution by any means, but I suspect it will add quite a few years to the service life of the current floor/stringers. I'm pretty happy with this considering the fact that new fir stringers and a new floor made of marine plywood would set me back at least $2k and a full week of work.

It looks like I have enough carpet and glue left over to do my buddy's bass boat, so hopefully I'll get some good karma out of the deal for helping out a friend.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bremsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 4:02pm
I'm not saying you have to do the full stringers/floor now. My opinion is if the motor still bolts to the stringers then you can get by for a few seasons with or without a repair. I figure its all or nothing with the floor and stringers so no reason in messing with it until you can completely gut it. I just don't think I would cut out the piece, but you may be able to epoxy/glass it and or brace it from underneath to stiffen it up for the time being (<- I have a feeling hollywood will be all over this one)

When we re-did our vinyl/carpet (feb-apr 07) I noticed a couple questionable spots as well. Much to Tim's chagrin (;-)), we made the decision to move forward without touching the floor/structure, but I knew (even if I didn't admit it at the time) the inevitable was coming. I don't think we had $200 in carpet/glue when we did it last time so I felt it wasn't worth worrying about should it need replacing again when the stringers/floor get done. We were able to get 4 more seasons out of her (incl 2010) and will be doing the planning/preparing this year for the rebuild over next winter. IMO, it was worth it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:48pm
By the way, what's the best tool you guys have found for putting the rubber strip back on the carpet where it joins the floor and the gunwales? Last time I used a metal spatula, but I'd probably buy the right tool if there is a better way.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:46pm
^ That looks great. I've used Lowes carpet in the past and been pretty happy with it. On my Excel I did heavy weight carpet on the floor from some internet site, but I did the gunwales in the Lowes stuff. The color was a perfect match and I saved some cash by doing it that way.

I was just joking on the harsh thing. I take it all with a grain of salt.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 3:28pm
Sorry man didn't mean to sound to harsh! It is just the reality of these older boats. Almost all of them will have rotten stringers and floors at this point unless the boat was only used a handful of times and keep in a dry warm place.

If you want cheap carpet go to Lowe's. They have really nice grey outdoor / marine carpet. I used it in mine and it came out looking really good.



It is a little thinner than standard marine carpet but it still works pretty well and the best part about it is if you need to get more you just drive down to lowes!

Good luck man and take some pictures if you do tear out that section!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 2:01pm
You guys are harsh. I'm sticking with 1993 and later boats from this point on.

I'd imagine that I can re-use the carpet a few years down the road if I do decide to rip out the whole floor. Every time I've pulled carpet up on a boat it has come out clean with no tearing; so it's not a total waste if I do decide to do a more thorough repair in the future.

The carpet that was in there was nasty. It was flattened down. It had tons of stains and one section where some kind of solvent had eaten it away leaving raw floor underneath. Had the interior looked halfway decent I would have left it as it was and not worried about it. Since I am replacing the carpet anyway I plan to fix this little section and roll with it.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:35pm
HA, that is funny. Didn't see your response till after my post Tim. LOL!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akabulla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:34pm
I think you asked the wrong group this question .

Most people on this site including myself love to chop these boats up and rebuild them so I would tear it up and rebuild it. Tim has a little more self control in his answers even though I know he would like to do the same , but I agree with the majority. If it was right at the end of ski season then I would say go for it but ski season is coming up fast so I say just fix it.

If the wood isn't rotten all way through you could dig out the rotten wood and fill it with epoxy mixed with microfiber. Get it nice and level and then reglass and carpet it. That will make it last for a least one season.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:29pm
Originally posted by LKG_ LKG_ wrote:

I assure you guys I'm not naive to what I'm going to find under the floor.

You wouldn't replace your whole dock just because one deck board pulled out would you? Sure, it's a sign of things to come, but there is no reason to make a mountain out of a mole hill.

Im willing to bet that its not a sign of things to come, but rather a sign of things that have already come! Dig in a little if you want, but dont expect the rot to be very localized. That mole hill isnt so much a mountain- more like the tip of a glacier.

Personally, I think it foolish to spend a few hundred in carpet to cover over a rotten structure- but thats just me! If you dont want to tackle the project, then band-aiding it back together as best you can is an option for sure. It will likely not lead to more damage for some time... but dont expect us to call it a proper repair.

FYI, there is no paint on the exterior of your boat- the stripe is gelcoat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LKG_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 1:14pm
^ Thanks Trip. It does look great for an 85 with original paint. I plan to do it on my Excel this summer.

I assure you guys I'm not naive to what I'm going to find under the floor. As far as I see it I have three choices (four if you count the option to leave it as it was when I bought it, but that was never my intention.)

1. Replace the whole floor and probably the stringers too. Extensive time and probably another $2k in costs at minimum. I'd rather just sell it and let the next owner deal with it than do all that myself right now.
2. Patch up the floor by replacing the rotten section and carpeting over it. I bet this will cost me less than $100 and will at least make the floor feel almost 100% as I walk across it in normal use.
3. Re-carpet and have a floor that feels great everywhere except this one section that dips a couple of inches every time I step on it.

Feel free to disagree, but I think it would be foolish to put fresh carpet over a rotten spot that is easy enough to cut out and replace right now while the carpet is out.

You wouldn't replace your whole dock just because one deck board pulled out would you? Sure, it's a sign of things to come, but there is no reason to make a mountain out of a mole hill.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRIP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:20pm
That hull looks good! Much better than our '85. Makes me want to do the wetsanding soon as well!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-16-2010 at 12:09pm
The front floor layout on the 82-86 2001 is different than the 87-89. The later boats had the windshield and dash pushed forward, so everything shifted. Many of the earlier boats had dual battery boxes/coolers as well.

Morse throttle knobs use 3/8-24 thread (I think). Check BJ's knob thread to verify. All of the Teleflex Big-T helms (used in pretty much every CC from the mid 60's through 1990) used 3/4" tapered keyed shafts. Its a very common size.

As far as the floor goes, stop digging right now and band-aid it back together if you dont want to replace the whole structure right away (floor and the stringers). The more you dig, the more rot you'll find. If your engine mount bolts are tight, then youre OK for a while- but dont think there arent major issues going on underneath. The "95% of the floor is solid" is a very common (and very naive!) response from unsuspecting owners... tear into one of these boats and you'll understand.

Edit: Bremsen beat me to it! I agree with him 100%.
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