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DA Sander

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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: DA Sander
    Posted: March-03-2010 at 9:16am
with the hook it you dont waste paper, unlike the glue once you remove the paper it goes to the trash, and the hook it you can keep switching back and forth to the grit you need, it saves a ton of money in the long run
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Andy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-03-2010 at 1:11am
I used to buy 3M stik-it film from 400-2000. Now, I've been converted to the interface/hook-it setup.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2010 at 12:33pm
Hey Tim,

I will do that. I am a few weeks away from really getting after it. I need to get all my other projects done. I cannot wait to see what it looks like!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Morfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-02-2010 at 11:38am
Hey Mike,

I'm in cahoots with a couple of 3M guys here at work as they have a rep on site. I can talk em up for some info and prob even some samples. I'm also in pretty good with the supplier who supplies DAL all there sanding stuff. I might be able to pull a few strings for you. Give me a call if I can help.
"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waldo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 10:35pm
Thats pretty amazing on what you can bring back. Chris did the same with his blue skier. At one point I thought Chris had his boat repainted.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 8:49pm
I already did that with just a couple little spots. I can't wait to see it done.
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DrCC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 8:44pm
I agree, once you get the rest of the hull looking like that spot, you'll probably stand back and say: Oh Yeah!!!
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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 7:21pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

if I can spend 50-60 hours sanding it and delay that expense for a season or two, I am going to do it.


I think the checks and cracks on the old boats give them character!

I'm sure you saw Roger's at GL?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 7:08pm
You should see how terrible the hull is. I was just playing though. I have never done it before, and wanted to see what it would look like. the 100 was pretty much just to get the painted letter off.
I plan on getting the hull refinished, but if I can spend 50-60 hours sanding it and delay that expense for a season or two, I am going to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote anthonylizardi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:48pm
Mike, why you had to do so many steps. I thought wet sanding was only a few steps. Do think the 1500 was fine enough? I have a DA from HF and I cannot run it constantly. Not enough CFM from my little 20gal compressor. Looks great. I am getting motivated to mine this spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:32pm
Chris, I did it inside before I rolled the boat out there. I am kind of done with it for a while. I just happened to notice the reflection and thought it was pretty cool.

Pete, I will look at the compressor. I am sure the electric would be fine, but.....
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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:28pm
Mike, looks great! I'd imagine your hands got pretty cold wetsanding out in the elements!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 6:09pm
Originally posted by WakeSlayer WakeSlayer wrote:

I believe these are the specs for the compressor I have:
33 gal
130 max scfm
14.2 scfm @ 40psi
9.9 scfm @ 90 psi
It is a 6.5hp, 33gal twin cyl, 240V

I need to verify the above, but if the spec on the sander is ~ 4cfm, wouldn't that be adequate? Or am I going to be a victim of misleading label statements?



Mike,
Looking over the figures again and I now take back my statement that I think you'll be ok with the DA and your compressor.

I feel you too have become a victim of the misleading compressor HP wars. What through me was the voltage (230) but doing a more detailed look at the CFM's, it looks like you may have a true 3 HP compressor (which would need 230). The amps on the nameplate will tell for sure.

The thing that really got me after some looking was the CFM needs of a DA sander. I did find one that did state 4CFM BUT it also states 17 CFM at load. Another DA listing also states 17 CFM at load. The 9.9 CFM,s not going to do the job. With a compressor running so much, you take the chance of burning it up. With the exception of a rotary screw compressor, all piston types have duty cycles. IE: time on and time off/resting.

So, you don't like the idea of running a electric wet! I don't even have a GFI!! We are not talking about lots of water here. In a spray bottle, just a misting to keep the abrasive from clogging up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 1:28pm
I did this in about 20 minutes with an orbital. 100/220 dry 400/600/1000/1500 wet. Meguiars 49, then wax.
I was just messing around seeing what it would look like. I did a couple other spots, too. Totalling a little over an hour.

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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:59pm
Thanks for the input guys, I've been hand sanding but also have plenty of time till summer. I'd be a little worried to use a RO on the boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:35pm
For the purpose of simply cleaning up the Nautique and making it passable, I will be using a pneumatic sander. Obviously, I will have to hand sand the curves and corners. I will post a photo of what 20 minutes got me later.
Pete, I will try and look at the compressor motor tonight for the SF.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:33am
Thanks for the help guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-01-2010 at 12:10am
From what I have read when you use a DA like the Huttchens it doubles you sanding grit size ie 1000 becomes 2000. I DA'd my stern last year before GL,it turned out awesome. Here is one place Mike that has disc's Tip Tools
I never ordered these from them yet,but use them for sand cabinet supplies. If you find discs cheap with no glue,or cut your own, 3m makes a glue for that, #08051
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:52pm
Steve,
I'll clarify my use of electric. I'll run the electric for the bulk and courser grits and then switch to a hard block wet sand by hand for the final sandings. When you are putting coat after coat of a spar varnish on, it really cuts down the sanding times. It also easier on the finger tips!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:47pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Chris, FWIW, I always wetsand by hand. I may try an electric on our junk Skier since the entire thing (hull and deck) needs serious attention... the paint will be coming off before long.



Im with you on this one Tim.

I have always wet sanded (cars and boats) by hand in a cross-hatch, X pattern. I think its the best way to fair something.   I have rubber sanding blocks 5" and 8" long. Sometimes,I even use a paint stir stick cut to about 4" or 5" long, wrapped with the sandpaper. Use your fingertips on each end of the stick to let it flex with the curvature of the hull.   Slower, but Easier to get the "feel" for what is cutting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 9:11pm
Chris, FWIW, I always wetsand by hand. I may try an electric on our junk Skier since the entire thing (hull and deck) needs serious attention... the paint will be coming off before long.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 2:58pm
Chris,
Yes, I actually wet sand with a electric RO. Spray bottle in one hand and sander in the other.

Mike,
The specs on your compressor are telling me you have a true 6.5 HP. Even though you didn't give me the amps, the 230 is saying you're not just plugging it in to a 15 amp outlet. You should be fine running the DA but, tell me how much your next months electric bill goes up!!

EDIT:
Mike,
Get the amps off the motors nameplate when you get a chance. There's really no such thing as a 6.5 HP. 5 yes but some manufacturers in the HP race will push their compressors to the max. They do this by using the S.F. (service factor) of the motor. There should be a S.F. on the nameplate to. It will be anywhere from 1 to 1.25


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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 2:58pm
yes wetsand with a DA,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:41pm
If you sand or buff those stickers, they'll only get 'cleaner'! I just use a wet rag, but mine are shot out too. I'm going to have them made sometime this year...time allowing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lonestar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:34pm
Stupid question ? When you guys are sanding and buffing, do you go right over the stickers ? i.e. on my 88 the stickers are really washed out and the blue needs a good buffing to bring it back to life; Do I need to avoid the stickers so not to damage them or is there a chance buffing might breath some life into them as well ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 1:33pm
So wait, you guys wetsand with actual sanders? Pardon my ignorance but I thought you had to do everything by hand?

I'm going to try and do the whole boat on the Ski Tique this spring since its got some yellowing on the hull and some funky accents someone added years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 11:15am
fwiw, we use hutchins DA, and thats one place you dont want to skimp becasue of its great orbital action they use a low volume of air to operate, hook it pads with foam in between so you dont burn corners. I end with 2000 so you buff less, a little palmolive in the water and a good hand squeegee to chech your progress. 600 is a good starting point because anything less will give you deep scratches and leads you to more sanding. Gel is deep so you can hog it but stay away from the corners. 3m finesse or heavy cut rarely cleaning the pad.i have more hours behind a buffing wheel than my car...thats why im mentally challenged, to much idle time looking at a white surface
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-28-2010 at 10:52am
I believe these are the specs for the compressor I have:
33 gal
130 max scfm
14.2 scfm @ 40psi
9.9 scfm @ 90 psi
It is a 6.5hp, 33gal twin cyl, 240V

I need to verify the above, but if the spec on the sander is ~ 4cfm, wouldn't that be adequate? Or am I going to be a victim of misleading label statements?

Just for the heck of it, I wet sanded three small areas on the SN yesterday. And WOW! I did it with a crappy little orbital electric. I am not really into the idea of wetsanding the whole thing with an electric sander. I have a lot of checking on the deck, and some waterline cracks and such, but it would make the boat somewhat presentable and let me put off the entire re do on the hull for a year or two. I have more time than money. I am not yet comfortable with the idea of doing the gel myself. That may change, but if you asked me today, the answer is no way!!
I used 100 and 220 dry, then 400/600/1000/1500 wet, buffed, waxed. I was amazed what the areas looked like in comparison. While I know this is how it works, I have never had to do it before. I did the "E" on the port side, about 18 inches of the port gunnel near the transom, and about a square foot of the bow deck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2010 at 5:02pm
Mike,
Unless you have a big compressor like Brian mentioned. I'd go electric. Porter Cable would be my choice. Everything is going H&L. You can even get wet/dry pads!

If you do go compressed air, you must look at CFM's and not HP's. The HP's scam on compressors at the home improvement/hardware store to the public is truly a joke. The are listing "peak" HP's and that has nothing to do with what CFM a compressor will produce.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkhallpass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-27-2010 at 4:12pm
You need a pretty big compressor to push a DA for very long. I've got a 30 gallon, 6 HP and it craps out pretty quickly under the load of a DA.

I would stop by a local Auto Body shop and see where they get their disks. It's been years since I've bought any, but my Dad used buy them all the time, and I'm pretty sure we had some very fine grits.

Edit. One other thing. Most of the hook and loops have holes in the pads. The stick ons tend to be an uninterupted surface.

BKH
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