96SNOB Steering

my 96 has a 4 blade stainless oj prop and has a lot more vibration than that of my buddy's 86. i have tried a 3 blade nibral and it helped a little but not enough to keep it. on another note...storm...did you ever get that trailer in lincoln?

I will get Joe to take a couple pics of the channel and the additional helper hole Jody described. It was really easy to feed the new cable back through after the heater hoses were removed.

Thinking out loud here...I'm a little disappointed with a few vibrations the boat has. I discussed this with Pete over the phone and will try a few things along with an alignment check. I'd be surprised if it was bad, but it needs to be done anyway.

Our 88 was so much smoother than the 96. Is this due to the composite stringers not absorbing the vibrations? The only other difference I can come up with is that the 88 had a four blade prop and the 96 has a 3.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

2 hour lunch? Are they hiring?

Some SNOBS and Sport Nautiques are very troublesome with directing the cable back into and thru the Air box even with a chase/pull rope.
Some of you probably do not want to hear this but I have a soulution that gets the cable thru every time. As their is a carpeted kick panel screwed over the air box, I have removed that panel, and taken a 4" hole saw and bored a hole into the air box. This will alow you to reach in and direct the cable end down the right path.
Re-glass the plug back into the hole and go on with life. I have done this many times faster and with less frustration then fighting the cable and tight limitations.

Waldo, I haven't had to call him back yet! Maybe we need to get verizon to give CCF members an "in your network" deal so we can all call each other for free!

IIRC, in the area under the dash, where all the wires and stuff come thru, if you remove the vent hose it makes it a lot easier to get your arm down in there to guide it.

Thanks for the input Ernest. I do have a small rope attached to the cable but I was trying solo last time. I've been trying to get over there but things with work have been crazy. I have a feeling your right, it should come through pretty easy with another set of hands.

Atleast there's something up there!

Looks like I'm not going to get to the boat tonight. I'll try again tomorrow morning that way I have a whole day to work.

I still can't believe this thing is that difficult to get started.

Pete/Steve, thanks again guys. You ROCK!!

Anyone have any tips on getting the new cable started? This one is giving me hell trying to get through the first 2 feet. I'm a little worried I'll damage the other controls/wires going through if I try and force it too much.

ps- I now know why Pete always wears long sleeves, I got into some glass last night on our muffler and am itching like a homeless bum!!

Chris
So, the rudder definetely had a little more play than it should have?! Glad you ended up checking the packing and found the reason why.

Thats the great thing with this site...lots of people with lots of different experiences...and always willing to help!

Thanks Jody, Woody did mention this briefly but I wsn't 100% sure if I heard him right.

Jody, thanks for all the info...Sounds like you and Woody are on the same page with centering the wheel. I got the cable from him, he knew exactly what I needed once I said 96 SNOB.

Great description on finding correct throw aswell! He thought I would be alright as long as I don't mess with the settings once I get everything apart. I'll see if I can get it installed tonight, make some measurements and report back!

TRBenj wrote: Chris, that sounds more like a cable issue to me. Take the cable off the rudder and turn it by hand- if its smooth and turns easy, then dont bother pulling it... although now might be a good time to change the packing.

I may do this, just because we were having some water on the carpet in the back of the boat. I think I've tracked it down to the rubrail. Just want to make sure, thats a different topic tho.

TRBenj wrote: If the new (R&P) cables are like the old (rotary) ones, then you'll need to reuse the clamp tube. Pull the new cable through (Ive always done front to rear) using either the old cable or a rope (that you pulled through when you removed the old one).

I'll snap some pics at lunch, I'm pretty sure I'll be reusing the clamp box. This is the white deal coming out of the starboard stringer? Correct?

TRBenj wrote:    Install the cable at the helm, such that the middle of the cable's travel has your steering wheel right side up (this can be tricky). Then install the cable to the rudder.

Here's a picture of the assembly at the helm. Hard to tell, but thats the end of the teeth and you can see the cable on the right side of the opening. It looks like it's set up to one end (either right or left). I talked with Woody this morning, he said if the wheel's not right side up I can pop the center cap and flip the wheel accordingly.

TRBenj wrote:    Then install the cable to the rudder. The last thing you want to do is to lock down the clamp block to the clamp tube. You do this by putting the steering wheel in the center (equal travel in both directions) and holding the rudder straight. Clamp the cable down in that position.

This sounds like it should be pretty simple. I feel that I'm thinking about it too much, I need to get in front of it and just get it done.

Fl Inboards wrote: TRBenj wrote: If the new (R&P) cables are like the old (rotary) ones, then you'll need to reuse the clamp tube. Pull the new cable through (Ive always done front to rear) using either the old cable or a rope (that you pulled through when you removed the old one). Install the cable at the helm, such that the middle of the cable's travel has your steering wheel right side up (this can be tricky). Then install the cable to the rudder. The last thing you want to do is to lock down the clamp block to the clamp tube. You do this by putting the steering wheel in the center (equal travel in both directions) and holding the rudder straight. Clamp the cable down in that position.

Wrong procdure for centering a rack and pinion cable clamp block assembly and centering the steering wheel.

Centering the rudder is done with a tape measure via measuring tip of trailing edge of rudder to the corner of the chine cut out/bottom of boat with the rudder at full travel one way then measure full travel the other way. Move the cable support tube so as the measurements are equal from full travel both directions then tighten down the clamp block assembly.

To center the steering wheel the boat needs to be run on the water. Keep in mind that the hub assembly is splined with the sterring post.
First remove center cap then loosen the nut holding down the steering wheel to the hub with a 3/4" socket Note: do not completly remove nut but get it finger loose.
Next run the boat up to 34 mph holding the steering wheel firm and driving in a straight line(this next part is kind tricky)notice where the steering wheel is oreinted and where you would like it oreinted at this point holding firmly to the steering wheel and driving in a straight line, slowly pull the throtle handle back down to idle/out of gear then unscrew the nut as it should be on finger tight pull off steering wheel re-orient it where it needs to go install the nut again finger tight then go check. If all checks out OK then retighten the nut with 3/4" socket and put center cap back on.

I do this part of the procedure in less than 3 min so it is not complicated.

With Tims method you may wind up with more rudder travel going one way then the other.
Keep in mind I have already replaced three rack systems this month.
Also on your 96 you would do your self a favor and buy a new teleflex Extreeme cable and the newer pinion assembly as it is superrior to what came orginal on the boat.

It's hard to find good help these day's