Rear Main Seal - DIY, or have shop do it?

Also, undo the rear mounts where they meet the aluminum piece at the stringer. Should be 2 bolts per side. Leave the whole mounts attached to the trans completely.

David,

I see what you mean.

I don't have easy access to equipment necessary to pull the engine, so I may rig a wooden frame to pull up on the rear lift ring on the engine.

I've been thinking of trying to rig a sling for the transmission (PCM 1.23) too, it looks a bit heavy.

Thanks for the suggestions!

-Dave

Tim,

Yes, leaking down the center of the flat piece in front of the bell housing.

I can probably drop the oil pan without removing the engine (although swapping oil pans would require removing the engine).

Since the engine-transmission assembly is supported with two mounts near the front of the engine and two mounts at the transmission, my concern is what happens when the engine is separated from the transmission - are the two front mounts alone sufficient to support the engine without damaging anything.

Anyhow, thanks for your comments.

-Dave

I've got a '96 SN w/GT40, it appears that the rear main seal (RMS) is leaking/weeping (mild but persistent slick under the engine and a trail down the vertical face of the bell housing). Although the oil pan gasket is a possible culprit, I've been told that the RMS is more likely.

How difficult is replacing the rear main seal, on a difficulty scale of 1-10, easy-hard?

I'd need to remove the transmission to access the RMS, also the bell housing and flywheel - will I have to rig up a sling or some such to support the rear of the engine so it does not torque the front engine mounts, with the transmission removed?

Am I better off just taking it to a competent shop that deals with inboards, and have them do it and check the shaft alignment too?

Thanks