strut bushing replacement plan

Tom,
I don't feel you'll get it all the way off with the standard socket. Get as much as you can, back off the bolts/nuts and put the deep socket in to finish it off.

86BFN wrote: You could leave the prop on it you wanted too, but you'll have to drop the rudder. If you have a skid plate on the trailer then you'll have to lift the boat or slide it back a bite to drop the rudder.

Sorry for the slow progress guys, I'm only getting 30 min or so every few days to hit it. This 'sunk in' yesterday.. how would I go about lifting the boat? Assuming jacks.. with 2x4s or something to distribute the pressure? Any particular place on the boat I should lift?

Have the coupler separated and have picked up the all-thread and other hardware. Hope to make some progress Sun or Mon.


Tom

Had to work late but managed to swing by and get the dog house and back seat out. Glad I at least did that .. saw a couple of questions. I think they're no-brainers but just checking:



BTW - I know the coupler has to be taken apart. And planning on doing the long bolt / socket trick to get the back half off the shaft. Didn't get any suggestions on getting it back on the shaft.


Tom

I found a socket that fit perfecly inside the strut and hammered the old bushings out with it. I put the new xpc bushings in the freezer for two hours and took them out one at a time. They slid right in by hand and expanded to a nice tight fit. I wouldn't remove the strut unless it is necessary.

It's the radial play that shows wear. Now there shouldn't be any play, worn about .010" is time for a new cutlass.



Noise is normal.

You could leave the prop on it you wanted too, but you'll have to drop the rudder. If you have a skid plate on the trailer then you'll have to lift the boat or slide it back a bite to drop the rudder.

Okie Boarder wrote: DIM says something about freezing the bushings for an hour or so, also. Does that work? I'm about to embark on the same adventure. Mine is already out and it is going to be about putting it back in and aligning properly. I'm planning to do mine before the engine goes in.

works fine with brass bushing, waiste of time doing it to Plastic bushings. Shouldn't need anything more than a rubber mallet to get them in either, it's plastic not brass.

I decided to pull the shaft rather than dealing with re-aligning and re-sealing the strut. To me it was worth the extra work. I figured the strut had been laser-aligned to that exact spot from the factory and I didn't feel like screwing with that. Pulling the shaft was a PITA. Had to drop the rudder, pull the prop, and extrude the shaft from the flange using the old long-bolts-and-socket trick. But, I did it. Tighten, rotate, tighten, rotate, tighten, rotate. Hacksawing the old cutlass bearings out was also a total PITA with the strut still attached. The fender washers and threaded rod trick worked great with the vesconite bearings.

tapenick wrote: "Not necessary to remove the strut" - I was taking that approach b/c I thought it would be easier than removing the shaft. (from what I had heard) Thoughts? Tom

Tom,
To me it's really a toss up. Both can be a PITA! The one bad thing about removing the strut is you'll need to deal with the strut alignment. Removing the shaft alignment isn't a issue as long as everything is aligned before the cutlass project.

SNobsessed wrote: Pete, you are slipping. No comment on the 'siliconing'? Tom - It is not necessary to remove the strut for bushing replacement. If the strut is bent, then of course it needs to come off. Use 3M 5200 sealant if you do pull it. Silicone seal will not hold up on a underwater joint.

Roger on the silicon.. thanks!

"Not necessary to remove the strut" - I was taking that approach b/c I thought it would be easier than removing the shaft. (from what I had heard) Thoughts?


Tom

SNobsessed wrote: Pete, you are slipping. No comment on the 'siliconing'? Tom - It is not necessary to remove the strut for bushing replacement. If the strut is bent, then of course it needs to come off. Use 3M 5200 sealant if you do pull it. Silicone seal will not hold up on a underwater joint.

Chris,
Yes, I meant to comment, got called away, came back and forgot!!

Tom,
PLEASE don't use silicone! It doesn't stick so consequently it doesn't seal. I don't even like using the damn stuff on the bathtub!!

Tom,
You shouldn't have to hammer the bushings in. A length of threaded rod and some fender washers/nuts on both ends will pull it in nice and gently.

Don't forget the alignment. That's really the only important step you forgot.

Spring is here.. getting the boat ready to go and planning to change the strut bushing that I've been suspicious of. Here's the plan:

Get Vesconite bushing:
http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2032B

and prop puller from skidim:
http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=OJ2



Remove prop (should I expect to have to heat?)

Remove strut

Hacksaw blade old bushing and remove

Hammer in new bushing (no need for press?)

Replace strut (siliconing well)

Replace prop using doc’s method:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12866

done?



Tom