Do I need new exhaust manifolds?

so what was the culprit?

had my oem pump rebuilt once...I could never put it back as it would flood the carb after running some seconds...had to get new one...

Then and now got back to me. They only rebuild this fuel pump themselves and do not sell kits to rebuild them. It will be 100 dollars for them to do this, and then I would have to pay shipping each way as well.

A new one from DIM is 80 dollars, plus shipping. The new one is the better deal IMHO

Yes Pete, I was going to check with the link that someone else posted about rebuilding a pump. Rebuilding the old pump is the best idea. Plus it keeps it more original too;)

The pump is a Delco (ugh sacrilege) I will post up the numbers on it and see if any place has rebuild kits for them. Is it true that the BB chevy's took the same pumps as SB fords? If so, that might make sense why it is a delco.

I guess you didn't read that I won't be buying a regulator as I got it to almost completely stop "spilling" out of the squirters.

Note on my last post that I mentioned a stock pump would surely do the trick. So I am not "wrong" as you say.

I am saving up for a new stock pcm or equivalent pump, probably the one for 80 dollars from DIM, unless someone sees one for a better price.

By me making the choke stat work, and not getting a regulator, I pretty much saved as much as the new pump from DIM costs.   I will see where I am at after my mortgage is paid this week.

So I checked both primary and secondary floats. The front was almost level, and I adjusted it. Also, I verified the needle valves were actually opening and closing with the floats. I also was able to get the motorcraft 1 wire choke stat to work on my holley. There are 2 electrical connections, but 1 was just in a different place. Simple fix, and it works. If I didn't bring this up, I doubt anyone would even know it wasn't the original one.

I did have to modify the end of the bimetallic spring to fit onto the post that is part of the choke lever mechanism. Not a problem either.

Also, I have the boat idling in the driveway now. No gas is coming from the secondary squirters, and only one drop once in a while is coming out of the primaries.

I won't get the regulator.

I'm well aware of what is, and what isn't marine specific. Some things like fuel pressure gauges and such, are not an item that needs to be marine rated. You won't catch me trying to run a non marinized alternator, starter, or distributor. There are very good reasons for using marine rated ones.

Pete, my boat is not stock anymore. It's got gt40p heads, and an edelbrock intake. Not to say the totally stock fuel pump wouldn't supply the carb with enough fuel though, even with the mods I have done.

Guys, I am making what I have work. If I have to throw 40 dollars or so at a regulator and a choke stat, I will. I don't want to spend 80-100 on a different pump, when the one I have obviously puts out enough psi.

Being unemployed leaves a tight budget. It's not that I am trying to be cheap, it's more that I need to be frugal. Even if I did buy the one that DIM or other places sell, it wouldn't be original Pete. ;)


I have to weigh all my decisions based on dollars, but at the same time keeping upbeat and doing what I can since I have time now.

horkn wrote: Chris, he used carb cleaner only in the parts washer, not normal parts washer kerosene or whatever they use in those typically. He had shelves of holley parts in his basement. Apparently carbs are his thing. For him, a bucket, or 5 of the carb cleaners wouldn't cut it. He had a tight fitting lid on the cleaner bin/ washer as well. .

the more you talk the less credability your carb guy gets. You use a 5 gallon bucket of cleaner with an adgitating device hook to the basket, soak it for 4-6 hours, rinse and blow dry and then assemble the carb. Again it's all in who's turning the wrenches and there are so many shade tree idiots out there.

Chris, he used carb cleaner only in the parts washer, not normal parts washer kerosene or whatever they use in those typically. He had shelves of holley parts in his basement. Apparently carbs are his thing. For him, a bucket, or 5 of the carb cleaners wouldn't cut it. He had a tight fitting lid on the cleaner bin/ washer as well.

It has the blue reusable gaskets on it, the guy put those on it.

No Pete, it is not a stock fuel pump. It's not a high pressure one per say, but it may have a little more pressure than a standard stock replacement. It's supposed to put out 7.5 psi.

I will see if I can get new diaphragms for the original delco pump that was on it at some point.

I'm very close, even as it is it runs pretty well. But I am certain I will need to adjust he idle and the 2 screws on the metering block once I either get the floats where they should be set, or assuming that is not the issue, the pressure regulated down a tad.

horkn wrote: Chris, the choke stat was in perfect shape when it left his place. I broke the terminal off while putting on or taking off the wire one time. He soaked everything in his parts washer table.

that screams the guy doesn't know what the hell he's doing. You don't clean a carb in a parts cleaner you clean it in a bucket of carburator cleaner not kerosene or mineral spirits, half ace carb rebuild IMHO.

hope it has the blue gaskets if it doesn't you better get a new kit before you start taking it apart or you'll be sorry you didn't afterwards.

well I'm betting your carb guy isn't all that good otherwise he would have replaced the choke stat, so the question bears to what else did he cheap out on too?, cans of carb cleaner enstead of the buck of carb cleaner to soak it in, diaphrams for the seconday's?

Pete my buddy Mike uses a regulator and gauge on his stroked 350 mag i/o BTW for the same reasons, too much pressure blowing fuel past the needle and seat.

It's been rebuilt by a guy that actually knows holley carbs. It has nearly new needles( about a year and a half since it was redone). I will check both floats, starting with the front. Before with the old worn out 4psi pump, it never had gas come out of the secondaries like that on the trailer. That's why I think it needs regulation. 4 psi didn't make the secondaries do this before.

Taking the bowls off will show me if there is varnish or other crap in there too.

I'm pretty sure other folks here have had to put on regulators once they either get a new fuel pump.

What is the upper end of acceptable psi range?

I found this one too, from Jegs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15912/10002/-1

This looks to be the pretty much same as the one from Summit.

Ahhh!

That I did not do yet.

Thanks for the reminder:)

That's why I said pretty much spot on. ;)

It should be good enough for a test drive. I mean I have driven it when I knew if would only idle around the lake.

Yes Alan, I did adjust the base idle and the 2 idle screws. That did smooth it out quite a bit. I am figuring that the slight burble is from the front float being set a tad too high, but it could be from older gas too. I'm guessing that it is not from the gas from last year, but I figured I would give it a try first before I monkeyed with the float.   I will get the choke fixed properly in the very near future.