Ski Platform

Sorry Coach but if you sand now you have to wash it again. You can't leave the dust from sanding clogging up the pores of the wood. That's why I use the wide fan on a power washer as my last step. Then let it dry, a little sun is ok but 2 days drying out of the sun is probably ok too. If the joints between the lengths of wood appear dry then the rest of it is.

Yes, Sand off the resin. Just the resin try not to remove much wood.

Donald

Pete, Teak oil will stain the gel coat.

At some point someone got some teak oil on my gel coat right near where the platform attaches.

i am in the process of doing mine right now as well. its hard to let it dry after the pressure washing when it keeps raining.

dstop wrote: Will it take off varnish type finish?

No as mentioned. Zip Strip or equal then wire brush and pressure wash (not up close at high PSI). You need to get the hard finish out of the pores of the Teak.

I don't think it will take off varnish. We had a varnish type on ours that was just about gone so my son just hand sanded the teak first to get that finish off then used the kit to bring it back to life.

rmm025 wrote: Starbright makes a kit that works prett good has the 3 part cleaner, conditioner, oil, and instructions. I have used on 2 platforms and the results are pretty good.

I have to agree, my son son just purchased the same starbright three part kit and the teak came out looking very nice. Very easy to use and the platform looks awesome again.

horkn wrote: grose wrote: rubbing with brass wool between coats of teak is the secret Ahhhh! That sounds like a plan.

and a brass wire brush for between the planks.

I also bleach the platform a couple of times on a major refinish as my last step before oil.

I do use a power washer with a wide nozzle setting staying a good distance from the wood so not to gouge it.

Most important thing I've learned is the wood MUST be completely dry before oiling, I usually let mine set a week after cleaning.

Teak care is not a set it and forget it deal, it needs to be touched up through the season.    I usually boat only on the weekends so I let the boat dry for a day, then give the platform a real quick wipe with oil and by the next weekend it's soaked in nice and deep and looks like new. Literally takes a couple of minutes to refresh but it's a must for me.

rubbing with brass wool between coats of teak is the secret

Steve,

I used the Natural and it looks like S$%t !! I got the same color that you described. Yes, I will share the remover once I get some. There is no way I can use the entire can and I will probably not go with sealer again.

I worked six years in the Industrial Hazardous Waste Sales Business. It was many years ago, but I still have a hard time keeping cans of paint that only have a little bit in them. They are hard to dispose of properly. I am not a tree hugger, but I do not want to pour it in the landfill either.

Donald

Clean, brighten and oil.[/QUOTE]

I found out that the teak sealer I used didn't even look good "at first" I hated it from the very beginning. As far as I'm concerned, teak cleaner/brightener/oil is all that I'll ever use again. I applied the teak sealer crap that starbright makes (classic teak) and my platform is the color of buffalo wing induced diahrrea. I hate it and as soon as it wears off, I'm going back to the old school stuff.

My $.02 of course[/QUOTE]

Steve,

I did the same exact thing last spring. I used the NATURAL Teak Sealer. Mine has that mustard color like you described. I hear that the sealer is very hard to remove. I know that Jamestown Distributors sells a Teak Sealer Remover. It is on my too do list to buy some to remove my sealer. They also sell clear Teak Sealer. I am tempted to try the clear sealer, but I will only do it if the sealer stripper works well. Then I can strip it for a second time if I do not like it. I realize that insanity is doing the same thing twice and expecting different results.

Donald

Hi qualls88!
I live just south of you. I am guessing you go to Lake Martin. Martin is truly a beautiful lake. Anyway, I just clean my teak and when it starts to look a little haggard, I just put teak oil on it. Keeps it looking like new.

While I agree with you gentlemen about keeping it original, I have to do something to make this boat where we can get in and out of it. I have a 2 year old child and it's hard for my wife to get in and out of the boat and then deal with the child. I didn't come to the decision easily but after spending last summer on the lake, it became apparent that I needed to make it easier on them. I won't go as far as to say that I think it would be a shame to put the platform on. This is the only boat I have and I've got to do what I've got to do. I appreciate everyone's feedback on this. Lord knows I need it!    Thanks again for all of ya'lls advice! This summer will be great!

TRBenj wrote: Pete is right about the teak oil- but in making his case he somehow forgot to include a "keep it original" comment. Ill go on the record and say that I think it would be a shame to see a platform installed on a 1st generation Ski Nautique. Platforms did not become an option until the late 70's and look out of place on the older boats, in my opinion. Just my 2 cents!

Tim,
I completely missed the boat Jeff has!!

Jeff,
I agree with Tim that a swim platform looks out if place on a 1st generation.

Jeff,
I pressure wash mine but not with one of the high PSI washers. I use one of the small electric 1500 PSI units. Yes, a high pressure unit will tear into the wood. I happen to like the job it does. It gets way down into the pores of the wood cleaning out all the gray mold. If it's left in there, the gray comes back quicker. The mold will actually feed on organic teak oils. Try to find a synthetic. The last bottle I got I think was West brand of "golden" teak oil. It will put the color back in from the bleaching/brightening step.