what kind of oil?

8122pbrainard wrote: Keegan, Look on the bright side. That "dream" is becoming reality! Now, to rationalize somewhat on what you've been through, Just consider it a educational experience.

The thing so far has cost me about as much as a tech degree in mechanics. I am probably getting a better education though!

Keeganino wrote: I went with Pete's choice of Valvoline VR1 20W-50. My mechanic is firing it up as I am writing this. Water test tonight!!!!!!!!!!

Well at least I "had a dream" that one day my little red boat would purr like a kitten and roar like a lion. I would have rather had the oil leaks than go through the nightmare I am suspended in.   

The Motorcraft filter is a good one. I use this, as well as the Wix (1515 for the Fords). Napa rebrands the Wix as their own (51515). I have used Purolators as well if I cant get to Napa.

I have read that the M1 15w50 still has a lot of zinc, so that may be an acceptable choice. There are several very good conventional oils (Valvoline VR1, etc) that many here use. I use the VR1 20w50 in all of my boats.

If you saw some of the failures of fram oil filters from motorcycle forums then you would steer clear of frams entirely.

Just the thought of oil leaking before the rear tire while at any speed makes me cringe.

I've been using regular Purolators or the PureOnes, and I've never had a reason to switch. The study Pete linked to didn't seem to have an issue with either as well.

kapla wrote: about the filter study it´s from 1999..is it possible Fram improved their quality in this last 11 years??? or maybe they become even more crappy

Everything has gone downhill!! I doubt Fram did anything except throw more money into their advertising!!

Thanks for the info on the oil filter study it was a real eye opener.

I went with Pete's choice of Valvoline VR1 20W-50. My mechanic is firing it up as I am writing this. Water test tonight!!!!!!!!!!

I use synthetic oil in everything I own from my cars to my motorcycle.
They are best all the way around for any engine. They cost more upfront but they last twice as long. Mobile one is the best. I run a 5w-30wt in my vehicles and a 20-50wt in my Harley. Synthetics dont burn so you wont get carbon deposits inside your motor. They handle heat better and will actually heal leaking seals. I use Fram filters on my motors and have never had a problem with them. Just change it everythime you change your oil. Good luck, Ray.

Not to confuse things, but it's the rotella straight weights that they tout for flat-tappet motors. I don't think the multi-vis ever had the higher zddp. Whether or not the rotella 30 wt still has enough zddp is another issue. Shell's website no longer seems to have this info. That concerns me. Especially when you consider they changed their packaging last year and now call it "T1". Did they reduce the zddp? The VR1 is listed at .14(1400ppm?) on their website and Mobil 1 15-50 is listed at 1300 zinc(zddp?). The VR1 is racing oil and the Mobil 1 15-50, according to them, can be used for racing. Mobil now has racing 0-30wt with 1850 zinc, but that's listed at over $90.00 for 6qts. Looks like we'll all be relegated to racing oils in the not too distant future. Horkn's numbers on motorcraft and maybe castrol make them seem a viable alternative, but I couldn't find specific numbers on those websites. Of course, the question i've never seen answered is how much zddp is enough for a 351w...

no additives required unless it's a brand new reman motor and it needs broke in.

no need for the STP oil treatment you really should change that out before it gets too cold otherwise it's going to have a real tough time turnng over.

I'm using the Shell Rotella 15-40.

The first oil change of the season I used a little bottle of Crane Cams, cam break in oil to get the extra zddp.

This time I tried a 15 ounce bottle of STP oil additive, on top of the Shell Rotella, it said ZDDP right on the front. Man, that stuff was thick though, it took a loonnggg time to pour it all in. Is there such a thing as too thick?

I just kinda fell into the 20w50 myself. I've been using Mobil 1 in most everything for about 20 years and that was as close as I could get the numbers to what my last boat called for.   I didn't realize that 15w40 is used in diesels so I was always looking in the gas motor section for oil. Turns out I was doing the right thing, just didn't know it for the first 5 years or so.

I'm sure Pete will have a much better thought out reason as to why, I'm intrested to hear it myself.

Keegan,
Keep in mind that decal on the engine is real OLD!! Stick with the straight Rotella or the VR1 and you're ok. The plate on my my 54 says to use only Havolene straight 30 . It BTW was the best back then!!!

Just do not put in automotive 10W-30, it has the least of what you need.

Straight 30 Rotella or Delo. I'm not a fan of multi-vis, but pete's recommendation of Vr1 20-50 is sound, especially if your baby deserves the best.