Bad oil??

I've said it couple times that amsoil has enough ZDDP, but there are other synthetics that do have enough too.

If you can get a hook up with amsoil, it's well worth it. Since they are based in WI, I have a couple places I can get it from for less than it is typically sold.

It works well in most of my toys, I don't see why the boat would be any different with the levels it has.

I have never seen anyone mention Amsoil on here, they have a high zinc oil made for the older ford motors, it comes in 10/40 and 20/50, plus it's synthetic. The local dealer puts straight 40 wt Pennzsoil , I would not put that in my lawn mower. I guess they like rebuilding customers motors.

63 Skier wrote: But ... I've never had an engine fail from "bad oil". Lots of boats, tractors, cars, and trucks have run a variety of oil, nothing has ever prematurely worn or failed that I know of because of oil brand.

A co-worker and I had this discussion the other day. He's an avid gearhead. He was saying the one oil related failure he had was one time a car he owned was leaking oil faster than he realized and he just plain ran the engine out of oil.

I think that cam manufacturers tell you to do that also.I have been running it,Autozone had it on sale awhile back,half price I think.They said they were closing it out,but I still see they have it.

Well one thing I understood was that VR1 is called "Racing" to get the extra zinc past the EPA regs and that the detergent additive package is the same as regular oil.

^^ Hahaha, Man! I read that article too. Very interesting article. Mike Allen is always on point with all of his stuff. Actually, my favorite piece, unrelated, in there was how to make your iPhone into a scan tool for pretty short money.

The article was a little frustrating though, I still didn't get the sense of an absolute right answer. Racing oils have their problems because of short drain intervals, which maybe 50 hours is short? Diesel oils (I assume he's referring to Rotella) have issues because of different additive packages.

I'm also curious as to whether my 240hp engine is really in a high enough state of tune for it to be of a concern. After all, the same block, pitons, lifters etc. see as high as 310 in stock form, way more in other forms. I'm assuming that would mean a lot more valve spring compression and the like.

He did mention Castrol GT Racing as a good all around compromise. That's one I'd take a look at I guess.

Tom,
My good neighbor put that "royal purple" in his F150 truck and had problems with it. I also read a articles in "Hot Rods" magazine where they down played it too. There is plenty of good synthetic oils out there than royal purple. My neighbor was told to switch to another synthetic oil, he went with Mobile 1.

I'm not positive, but the racing oils you would use with the SB Ford (20w50) motors seem to be labeled that way because of the regulations, Mobil 1 has something to that effect on their website. There are racing oils with additive packages that need to be changed very often, so do a little looking before you just buy something off the shelf.

As of the last time we had this discussion (not that long ago) Mobil 1 20w50 had 1200ppm. I am still using it because it is still cheaper than VR1 when I get it in the 5qt bottle at Wallyworld with my FL-1A filter. I think I've put about 6 or 700 hrs between 2 boats since I started using it with no issues.

skicat2001 wrote: Stay away from that purple ***************... No Weyno for Kaka... I heard best synthetic if you choose to go that route is Mobile 1...

You realize that Mobil 1 isn't the same as it used to be either, right?

Why don't you like royal purple? have you tried it? I have and I liked it.

I only bought it because it was like 5 dollars a quart on sale once. Otherwise it is too $$ for oil IMHO, not that it isn't good, but too $$$.

Now If I had to buy it for my new car, it would get VERY pricey. 9 quarts at 12-15 dollars. Even at 12 a qt, it would be 108 dollars for an oil change. oh the good ol days of 5-6 qt oil capacity on V8's....

Anything Valvoline is good though. That VR-1 I am sure is pretty good....

And what about the not street legal VR-1 oils?

Ok...

Lets take this to some data...

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=19533&title=zddpzinc

I seriously dont know or understand why people all sold on this synthetic oils against just regular conventional oil. Made the same way, has same texture and serves same puporse just has added addtives to it. High performance I understand, but until got big modifications then regular oil works just fine.

Love Castrol, Mobile, Valvoline, Quaker State.....

Pennzoil suks!! Turns gray in 1000 miles or 10 hrs in a boat, loses its base to darn quick...

Keeganino wrote: I think the consensus leans towards Valvoline VR-1 20W 50. Less than $5 a quart and available at most auto parts stores. That is what I am using in the Skier. I have no experience with this pump but here is one.

I just changed the oil/filter in my '96 and used the VR1. Got it at the local auto parts store down the street and put a new Motorcraft FL-1A filter in (also found at local parts store). Stay away from Fram filters, they are garbage.

I think there are better alternatives out there to VR1.

www.aslcamguard.com

You guys are paying more for VR-1 than we pay for aviation oil with an anti-wear additive. The anti wear is a requirement of some aviaion engines to prevent camshaft galling:

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/service-bulletins/pdfs/SB471B.PDF

http://www.sacskyranch.com/faqaircraftengineoil.htm

Tim